Archive through October 25, 2005

[wham]

Serial Number Location on a 1250.
I know this has probably been asked before on here but where do you find the serial number on a 1250 CC. I found a number on the left hand side of the chassis down close to the brake pedal but it is kinda long and not sure if it is the right one anyway. Appreciate any help.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a link to the FAQ entry that tells about the SN locations.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I think this is the tiller belt info for an 82 series. Not sure what brand that part number is though. Hopefully someone will confirm or discredit this info.

Belt #: WM-64852
Size: 5/8 X 162- 15/16

 

[rchristensen]

Steve B.
Doing some welding the other day and I got to wondering how you liked being a member of the Miller Club??? And I don't mean LIGHT BEER.

 

[lbuttke]

Kraig M.
I will try to get some more photos of the blade tomorrow.( I sometimes have problems geting the computers here at work to read the files and have to reformatt my disk to be able to read them here at work) But I will work at getting some more photos.

 

[lbuttke]

Dennis F.
I moved/leveled approxamently 3 yards of sand today with the center blade(Yeah I should have taken photos, but it did not cross my mind until now) The blade worked great at leveling the sand.
The only mistake I made in makeing up the blade was to build in a float. Its kind of hard to put any down preasure on the blade, but other than that it did a great job of moveing the sand.
I will try to get some photos of it mounted on the tractor and of the built in float.

 

[sblunier]

Richard,

MM210 is SWEEEEEET!!!! Thanks for asking about it.

 

[pdorow]

Love my Miller XMT 304 for working on the Cub !

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE, Richard - The MM210 is the newer version of My MM185. Probably the best lighter guage welder made. If Your going to weld thick steel like 3/8" and up it may be a bit small. Son & I are looking at another little BLUE box.... Dynasty 200 DX. I REALLY want to learn how to butt weld soda or beer cans together and keep them leak-free.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lonny, good to hear that your grader blade works. Feel free to send high resolution photos directly to me via email. Thanks. )

 

[digger]

I'm posting this for a member that's having a problem with posting and his Dual Hydraulic Lift setup.
I told him that it sounded like rust might be the problem and sent him this pic that I got from Kraigs info CD's. THANKS KRAIG!

-------------------------------------------------
So I have a burning problem that I wasn't able to find anything about in the
Search function: My front blade-angle lever is frozen with the hyd lift
lever.

I just bought my 1450, and I'm going thru it to make it ready for the
snowblower season. I only drove it to test it when I bought it.

The previous owner didn't know anything about the front blade-angle lever,
and apparently didn't ever use it. I tried to move the (2) levers
independently of each other, but it seems that the (2) concentric shafts
they ride on are frozen together; you can't move one without moving the
other.

At the valve body, the lever(s) actuate the right-side valve only, which
operates the hyd lift. The arm from the shaft that SHOULD actuate the
left-side valve actually spins on the shaft, so the left-valve(front hyd?)
does not actuate when the lever(s) are moved.

I don't know why that is, because I would have assumed that if the two
levers/shafts were frozen together, then the two valves would actuate
together, too. Somehow, the arm that actuates the "front" valve is allowed
to spin on the shaft, and I don't know if this is part of the design, or if
somehow somebody was able to un-clamp it.

 

[jpatchett]

John G.

I would grind out the factory weld shown in light blue, but only the weld and none of the two base materials (frame and axle housing). I would not reweld here as this is why it cracked in the first place. The frame cracked along the edge of the weld, no supprise. I would place 1/8-3/16 strcutural angle on the back side of frame (shown in black). I would grind the angles outside corner into a raduis so that it rests flush against the inside of the frame. The angle will need to fully cover the crack. I would weld the angle shown by fat blue lines, not running a weld from the edge of the frame to the radius (corner). This would create the same problem. After welding in the angle, I would use the round edge of a grinder and grind along the cracks (green line) from the outside of the frame through to the angle. This will make a channel for the a weld. Then weld up the ground out cracks, thus makeing the angle a backing plate for the weld. Grind the crack welds for cosmetic appearence.

 

[owill]

Well, I saw my book for the first time today, and spent the last few hours signing...whew! But thanks. Still have some to do, but I needed a small break.

Here is a dash and decal set that never made it to production. I kind of dig it though

 

[trentschler]

Hank,
I tip my hat to you. I bought 2 copies for a friend and I. I find it completely amazing what cub cadets do to friendships. On the other hand, my wife just shook her head at me last night for the 2 hours I stared at your book. Oh well, there are worse things to do with time and money!

 

[digger]

Well with all the buzz about the tires/wheels Brinly-Hardy sold on epay, I decided to make a call to my buddy to see about gettin some.
Needless to say, I got some, LOL
40 oughta last me a while.

 

[owill]

Thanks Tom

Charlie -- I got 10 of those wheel/tires delivered for $67. I figured I might get around to using them some day.

 

[dfrisk]

HANK - I had an idea about a Dual Tandem dump cart with walking tandems a while back. It would need eight tire/wheel assemblies. Only problem was going to be it would over-load a Cub Cadet Empty!

 

[pswarfle]

I have a factory IH windbreaker that I used to have on my 125, and it worked great. This season I am going to use a 122 for snow removal. After installing the windbreaker on the 122 I find that my hand is going to ram into the frame when using the lift handle. I did'nt realize the 122's lift handle is at a greater angle in relation to the tractor, than the 125's is. Has anyone ran into this issue before? I also have a steel factory IH cab but don't think it will work on the 122 without modifications. Where does the front of the steel cab mount on a 122, and still allow the hood to open? I'll try to get some pix of the cab.

 

[lbuttke]

Kraig M.> here are the photos you asked for.
The blade is 42" wide, 7" high.

This one shows the built in float.

The brackest to mount the blade are 10'long moveing the back of the mount 5" past the end of the sub frame and also 5" drop to keep the piviot point level to the ground.

 

[rchristensen]

I took this picture this summer, reminds me of the many restful hours I've spent sitting here mowing grass and just forgetting about all the cares and problems in this hectic life. Probably the best therapy a person could have.