• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through October 25, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Mowed the lawn for the last time this year yesterday. Decided to get the the snow thrower ready for the season. Last year I asked the forum and the local IH dealer what to use in the gearbox. This is what they recommended.
31870.jpg

This stuff has the consistency of a thick butterscotch. After sitting in the shed all summer there is a puddle of fluid on the floor under the snow thrower gear box. I pulled the box and opened it up to see how it looked.
31871.jpg

The box is still solid as a rock with no backlash or slop. I noticed that the gearbox does not have seals. The bearings have seals. Doesn't seam like a very good design to prevent leaks, but these boxes have lasted for 35 years with this design. They should last another 35 with TLC. I refilled the box and reassembled. If the lube runs out again I might replace the bearings next year.

As long as I was at it I thought I would take care of a sloppy chain drive pulley. You will notice the chain is hitting the on the right side bracket (Actually its the left bracket, the picture is upside down).
31872.jpg

I never noticed this before but the sprocket bracket is aluminum. I guess there would be less sparks if you forgot to grease.
31873.jpg

I replaced both bearings and pressed them in.
31874.jpg

I picked up a couple of brass thrust washers to compensate for the wear. I put one on each side of the sprocket and one next to the knuckle yoke.
31875.jpg

Finally I reassembled everything and greased the heck out of everything. Now I am ready for a 100 inches of snow this year.
Notice my IH red helper spring I installed a few years ago. Manually lifting the snow thrower for a couple of seasons made my right arm 2 sizes bigger than my left.
31876.jpg
 
Terry B said,
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

made my right arm 2 sizes bigger than my left.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Yea right! We've all heard that excuse before.
biggrin.gif
 
Charlie/Terry,
Ahhhhhhhh... so that's how that happens. I know a guy like that. Any clue why he has some "peach fuzz" on the palm of his hand??
angel.gif
devil2.gif


(Message edited by thoffman on October 29, 2005)
 
Terry B. -

That stuff's been around for YEARS...

31880.jpg


I still get mine in the grease gun tubes...
 
I read earlier today there is a vinyl windbreaker and a steel cab mount for cub cadets. Would they make these for 1250's or 1650's? What was the primary reason for making the steel cab mount?
poof.gif
Are they rare?
poof.gif
I haven't checked the sponsors yet. Is there any info on them in Hank's new book?
 
So jeff H.....what are these attatchments you want to hook up, and to which cub are you going to attatch them to?
dunno.gif
 
Well, I am just about done with a little project that I have been working on for about 7 months or so. I get stuff done it just takes a little while. I decided to take my 73 and paint it all white and since it had an K-181 replacement motor in it, I decided to name it the 73/83 Demonstrator/Prototype. Kinda modeled along the lines of a Farmall Demonstrator. I think that it looks pretty cool. I have to put the decals on still, run wire loom, paint the rear tires, and do some work to the engine. It started life as just a regular 73
31889.jpg


And I decided to change a couple of things on it and I added a 3 point and creeper. As long as something catastrophic doesn't happen, it will make its debut at PD11. And now for an after shot.
31890.jpg


I think that all the plowing my original did at PD10 finally caught up with it. I was backing it out around the garage yesterday and I snapped the draglink between the front spindle and the steering box
angry.gif
. Good thing that the original doesn't do anything for winter, so now I have all winter to find a replacement.
31891.gif
 
My 1250 ain't firing. I did a motor swap on it this morning, the crank was in pretty bad shape on it and the keyway on the pto end of the shaft was worn out so I swapped the 12 hp for a 14 hp I just happened to have on hand. Pretty much swapped everything over from the 12 to the 14 and now it will not fire. Tried everything, pretty much give out and give up for the day but now I'm open to any suggestions.............help!!
 
William
Go back over all of your connections, check for a broken wire or bad connection. Be sure you put the ground wire on from the engine to the frame. Did you change out the points, coil, condensor, spark plug from the engine that was running or did you use the ones on the 14 hp? Was the 14 hp running before you swapped it?
 
I changed all those things out on it Richard from the 12 hp. The 14 was running when it was removed from a 1450 about 3 months ago. I will go back and check the wiring for a possible break and the ground was causing a problem with the ignition at first but I got that problem cleared up. This may be one of those "processes of elimination" the way it is going but it sure is frustratin' right now. I guess I'll just have to keep diggin. Thanks, Tim Ham
 
William
I can guarantee you the problem will be simple when you find it. Just a process of elimination like you said.

I usually start with the points, make sure the area is clean for a good ground, make sure the points are good, then set them, follow the wire back to the coil. (often times the wire from the coil to the points has a bad connector or is shorted to ground somewhere along the way.

Make sure the wire connections on the coil are on the correct sides. The condensor gets it ground on a stud that is backed into the cylinder for a ground, I usually wipe it good and make sure paint isn't preventing a ground.

If you have a meter make sure you have 12 volts from the ignition, check the plug wire and try a different plug.

Check those items and you have probably checked about 90 percent of the problems you can have.
 
William, I don't know too much about a quietline engine, but one thing that I would check is your points, make sure that they are in adjustment. If you are not getting spark, that would be the first thing that I would check.
 
Roland -

You up enjoying the time change, too?
coffee.gif
 
Bryan:

Yes I am...LOL
The internal clock does not know about Savings Time...

Geez..I guess I need more coffee. Had to edit this twice...
eek.gif

(Message edited by rbedell on October 30, 2005)

(Message edited by rbedell on October 30, 2005)
 
Roland -

lol.gif


I hear ya. The cats know even LESS about savings time!

I can tell it's gonna be a great day. Pulled up to the ATM, got my cash, turned back to drive away and the check engine light was on.
rant.gif
 
Or on a REALLY hot day.


S.O.B. anyhow, just when I thought I had it figured out!
destroy.gif


(Message edited by thoffman on October 30, 2005)

(Message edited by thoffman on October 30, 2005)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top