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Archive through October 25, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Dennis -- that would be sweet. I bet you and Dave Kamp could figure out how to reinforce the chassis to handle the weight
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Ummm Richard,
I see CLEAN tires, CLEAN deck, CLEAN steering wheel, just what's that dirty spot doin on that dash? HUH!
 
Thanks Charlie & Jim P. for help on the cracked frame on the 1450. I welded it up yesterday, maybe it will last another 30 years.
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Here is a pic of the windbreaker I mentioned earlier. I know I could modify the support leg so the lift handle would clear, but I hate to cut it up. Any advice? Also a pic of the 122 I had the windbreaker on. Should be a good snow mover with the addition of some wheel weights.
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Thanks Charlie. My brother still has to give me a few brackets, but I believe they are for the door skins, which we are missing. I don't have a bracket that looks like your 101395.(or the one you mentioned I might be missing). My vertical "legs" bolt to the foot rests and go straight up, therfore the lift rod won't go past it towards the front of the tractor. It is actually no big deal for me to have the canopy anyway as I'm not running a snowblower. I just think they look cool.
 
Hmmmm, maybe I should have claimed it was a one way windshield.
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Lonny, thanks for the photos. Nice job on the grader!
 
HANK - The original plan was to model the box off a real dumptruck box with a tailgate that dropped down and pivoted from the top both. Reinforced sides & tailgate, 5-6 feet long & 3-1/2 to 4 ft wide box with 2 ft tall sides and a three stage hyd. cylinder mounted on the very front. And the hyd. cylinder is what stopped the plan! I couldn't find a small 3-4" bore three stage cylinder with 20" long stages. Supposedly Hillside combines have cylinders on the rear steering axle about that size but I couldn't even find pictures of one and trying to find a hillside combine in the Midwest is impossible. Then steel got SO EXPENSIVE. I haven't started a big welding project for over 2 years. I figured up the steel list for this cart once and the thing was going to weigh 800-900 pounds empty! That's when I started thinning up the sheet for the floor and sides. I don't work a block from My ready source of Cheap Steel anymore. When I built My lawn vac I bought about 500# of steel and paid only $135 for the whole load. Local source close to home was over 50 Cents per pound last time I bought anything.
 
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Congrats Ray. I'm shocked that there wasn't a plethora of overturned, burning cars and bullets all over the streets like the aftermath of the Bulls...

I'm thinking John Lang ought to repaint his Cubs tractor
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Dennis -- that would have been pretty cool. The last time I bought steel was when I livedin CA. I got it froma scrap place for .25 a pound and it was usually new and often pieces that were just an inch or so shorter than 10-feet. One time I bought several hundred pounds of heavy walled square tubing like that -- in fact I think some of it moved to PA with me. That place had a Cub Lo-Boy sitting up on a rack along with an old CleTrac...I tried to buy them both every year for 5 years. Each time the owner said he was going to restore them some day.

OK here is something to keep this on topic.
I really like the controls myself

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I don't know if anybody checks their new mower deck blades or not.
I can't find a set that has all three straight when checked with a straight edge.
I've even checked stock at my Cub dealer and at least one in every box will be untrue.
I ordered two sets of Gator blades and they are warped too.
I may be nitpicking but when you are doing a deck alignment you need to start with straight blades.
Anybody else notice this or does anybody care that much?
 
Hank -

Ah, another idea from Simplicity? Throttle, starter, key and light switches were all on the rear face of the pedestal.
 
Just a short note to thank you folks for all your help. I rebuilt the carb and was still having problems when I realized that the coil had vibrated forward in it's bracket and was stretching the condensor wire to extreme. It had broken and was only working part time. I had checked the spark in the bright daylight and had seen spark so didn't realize it wasn't constant. Oh well all is ok now. Just goes to show that when you stay with the expected you miss the obvious. Good day to you all. I would post a pic but can't get it compressed enough without it looking like it was taken from a satelite with a shower door for a lens. see ya when i have more time in winter.
 
Richard,

I have four sets of blades for my 50C. the oldest are orignal and two sets of OEM replacments. The ones on the deck are Gator blades. I must say that everyone of the blades is not perfectly flat and some are obviously warped. I never thought is was enough to cause mowing irregularties. Although I have seen pictures of how good your lawn looks after being mowed and I can see why you would be concerned.

Jim
 
RICHARD - I just check them once they're on the mower deck. I make sure both tips are close to the same height with the adjacent blade, turn the ajacent blade 180 degrees and repeat. Especially on My 38" deck the outside blades I like to run a hair lower than the center blade.... since the tiny 9" long blades don't have much suction, and the tires have driven over the grass. The blades are a rather mallable 5140 alloy steel.... not brittle at all so You can bend them slightly. I've even drilled & welded on them with success.
 

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