Archive through November 20, 2009

[digger]

Mick M.
All you have to do is click the FAQ link above and then to CUBFAQ.com, click on question #60-Where can I find a wiring diagram for my tractor?.
Then click on Original,
http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams/original.jpg
No need to tell ya the difference, they are all negative ground.

 

[digger]

Greg L,
Nothin but A&E's up this way. Trying to get the wood boiler cranked up by Monday to keep the Cubs warm this winter.
Glad that carb is workin out for ya.

 

[tstewart]

OK, I got some ground to scrape down a bit, I am wondering just how much abuse can these old cubs take? I know my 129 & snow/dirt blade probably wouldnt get through sod and had a fellow come over with one of those skid loader things or whatever they are to get the ground ready for a pole barn. Well the barn is built finally and I need to take the high side down a few more inches (he already took it down a few). I thought well maybe the bare dirt I could push... not really. After trying about 30 or 45 minutes today I got 1 wheelbarrow sized pile of dirt that I could have done with a shovel in 1/4 the time lol. About the only way I could get it to dig in was to get some momentum going and just about everytime I'd have at some point a near out-of-seat experience if ya know what I mean.

I know one of my problems is the turf tires and no weight... trying anything slow would just get hung up and spin the tires. If I got some big ag lug tires (maybe something like ~26x10 size) and had them filled and also wheel weights would I be able to dig down in a push dirt? Or is it just too much for a cub and reserved for the several thousand pound and larger units...

 

[lkortkamp]

I just returned my buddys Bobcat yesterday after having it around for a few months. It did great for moving the big stuff, but it tore up more sod then good since he has the metal tracks on it right now(too much work to remove/replace them).

I got my 149 out, installed the blade and commenced to try to smooth out the rough stuff. It did "ok", but like you it needs REAL tires and some weight to move any mountains(taller then 3-4" or dirt).

I have a spare set of turf tires with chains, but didn't want to tear up the yard worse. I'm saving those for winter.

Did have 1/2 hr of fun time on the Cub, though not real productive. Who needs "productive" when playing anyway?? LOL!

 

[memorgan]

Thanks Charlie!! Forgot to look there,on the FAQ

 

[fcurrier]

I've had good luck levelling dirt with a landscape rake on the back of the 149.

 

[thoobler]

Charlie,thanks for the pictures.I will start digging through my parts.hopefully have all correct parts.

 

[mstetar]

it takes time to get used to using the blade for earth moving, ive noticed if you angle the blade it tends to continue pushing after a good run at it rather than just slaming into the pile, the key is that the dirt be broken up, if its packed dirt you have to break it lose first by going over and over it lowering the blade each time, after its lose it will push a lot of dirt for me, ive got chains and weights but when these pics were taked i had no weights.

its a shame i dont have pics but all the dirt i pushed like that we loaded then dumped at the base of this jump then pushed it up on top, it ended up raising the jump almost a foot and only took a few hours, ive only ever pushed with this 8hp so im sure your 12hp could do much better

also this wasnt top soil, this was really packed clay! there are dirt bikes and quads riding over it all the time so its like rock, especially when you land on it without the bike!

 

[dfrisk]

IMHO, trying to move much dirt, especially with any kind of grass or weeds is a futile job with a front blade on a CC. Loose dirt, sand, rock, etc they work good. If you moldboard plow or rototill the ground You can move it fine. But the ability to hold grade will never be as good with a frt blade as with a belly mounted blade.
I know Kraig and probably others have pic's of Dan H's, belly mounted grader blade. I made one about 25 yrs ago from an old replacable road grader blade cutting edge, think hardened carbon steel 1/2" thk X 6" tall with the proper curve in it to roll dirt!
It bolts onto the mule drive, angles in three increments each way, and "TILTS" with some Operator Added Body English, just push down on the end You want to grade deeper.
I've used it on loose fill dirt a LOT, works great. Also used it on packed dirt with weeds & grass this summer, takes a while to get rid of the grass but then You can really move dirt. I had it on the 70 all summer, With chains on the 6-12 GY turf tires and one set of weights it will move more dirt than I can back over with the frt tires.

WYATT - Glad to see You working on the WHEATLAND again! THAT tractor will be so cool!

 

[mgonitzke]

Did somebody say grader blade?

 

[agitch]

Charlie,

I tried telling my parents that the decal set you sent them for my Christmas present had a shelf life and I would need to put them on by Thanksgiving to keep from ruining them. It didn't work they just laughed at me!

 

[nhasson]

Don T., if you are referring to the side cover and the decal I'm missing...I finally got the decal on. I took the pic as soon as I finished and forgot the decal. The side cover I never had from the p.o. and as much trouble as I had with the driveshaft until I did the 1450 setup on it I didn't mind it being missing. I should try to find one now though. Not the original style seat either though, this one was off a newer cub and it was free. Any other parts or were those it? Thanks for the comment though. The 149 looks alot nicer from a few feet away if you know what I mean. The original I did was a much better job. Nick

 

[kide]

I've been kicking the idea of a grader around for a year now, belly blade versus a tow behind (similar to the old horse or tractor drawn with an over the top frame ). The benefit of the pull behind would be the longer wheelbase ( the farther from the blade to the wheels, the less bumps affect the leveling ). On the other hand, a belly blade is much more convenient and useful in more places. I leveled most of our front yard years ago with a full size Cub w/belly blade..

Here's where a pull behind wouldn't work...

 

[mames]

I am working on installing a 364 snow blower on a 782D I had to add two brackets at the rear of the tractor I now find that I am leaking hydralic oil, one of the parts that I may have installed incorrectly is called a bell washer it is a cupped washer how are these to be installed raised or rounded end in or out from tranny case, or should I be adding thread sealer of some form-a-gasket? the washer is item 18 in the 3 point hitch diagram. Item 8,9 are the same part as item 6 shown in the blower diagram. The second diagram shows how the brackets attach to the tractor

 

[dfrisk]

KENDELL - By a "pull type blade" I think you mean something like what is called a "Land Plane". Basically a wide box blade attached to a very long frame. Most common use I can think of is leveling rice fields. I know exactly what your describing as the old horse-drawn road graders with the BIG hand wheels and worm gear driven eccentrics to raise/lower/angle, etc.

My blade is pretty similar to the one MATT posted the pic of. Like the one in Matt's pic mine only raises about 2" off the ground. So sometimes You end up grading things You don't intend to!

Most of my problems trying to back away from the graded "Dirt" is actually when grading snow/ice off the driveway. My blade really works nice for peeling an inch or two of ICE off the concrete on those clear winter days when the temps get close to 40 deg. I stand on the one end of the blade and it just rolls the ice up off the concrete.

Another thing to keep in mind, most ground engaging implements are PULLED, not PUSHED, with bull dozers being one of the few exceptions. I guess that's why it seems my blade on the loader drags snow back so much more efficiently that "pushing" it.

Belly blade bolted/pinned to the mule drive is a lot simpler project. I've used my blade on the 72 and it's fender a LOT, but I actually like it better on the 70 without fenders. Makes applying "Body English" easier.

 

[jott]

Matt S,....

I have found a 73 in more than perfect shape with with a 38" mower and 2 snow plows. I dont have a need for two more snow plows, so i was wondering what the going rate is on them. I am thinking $125-$150. <font size="-2">I hope this isnt breaking any of the forum rules</font>
I am going to get it on the 5th of december, so pics will be up around then. PS. It has fenders!

 

[kide]

Dennis:
Since I just remembered the spare mule drive off the 149, I'll probably put a belly blade together (literally, since I had a scrap grader blade the county left alongside the road that I cut in three equal pieces, I'll put two of 'em back together..). I do want a pivot table on it so I can crown up the driveway - I may not have the clearance under the 129...

 

[bjrainey]

Can any one tell me if the float and needle valve are an assembly on a Walbro carb?
I noticed that on a Walbro carb there is a spring on the needle valve that rides over the tab in the center of the float. Seems like the needle valve should be placed in position on the float before inserting it in the carb. The needle valve didn't come out with the float and I'm thinking it maybe is gummed up and stuck in the carb body.
Any body have experience with Walbro carbs?

 

[tdaugherty]

I wonder where i can get brushes for my 124's motor/generator. It recently stopped working, and my worst fears came true. One of the brushes somehow got jammed behind the push spring, and both are excessively worn out. I have got it to work again, but im sure it will quit again soon. Is there any website that sells new brushes for cheap? Thanks}

 

[tdaugherty]

Matt Stetar,
That sucks about what happened to your 149. I have an original cub that i made into a racing tractor not too long ago, and it's season didnt last to long, because the connecting rod snapped internally, and it took me almost a month to rebuild it. Lucky, it did not go through the block.

But it works again, and i sure hope that your 149 did not suffer too heavy of damage. 149's are tough, i've owned two myself, but now im down to my 124, original, a 70, and my little red Cadet. Nice tractor, hope you can fix it!