KRAIG, RON - Another option, though not "OEM" is to use an insulated "Army-Navy Clip" It's a 360 deg. clip with a separate rubber or silicon rubber insert that wraps around the metal. Dad bought a BUNCH of them from a surplus outlet that followed Me home a couple years ago. Summit Racing calls them "insulated clamps", avail. from 1/4" ID to 1-1/2" ID. Also good hardware stores will have similar clamps made from nylon without the rubber inserts, cheaper and non-conductive so may save a Cubbie from burning.
I almost lost My 72 to fire about 5 yrs ago. The light switch was getting "Fussy" about working, Typical hardware store "standard" push-pull switch, plenty of amp & volt capacity for the lights, One night when I was done mowing the lights automatically went out, turned the switch off, wiggled it a bit, turned it on/off a few times, put the 72 away and as usual disconnected the ground cable on the battery. Next day went out to do more yard work and discovered the connecting terminals on the switch had BURNED OFF the side of the switch from the heat of the resistance inside the switch. The switch is mounted in the OEM location so all this was going on less than an inch from the battery. The lead to the switch was fused, 10A if I remember right, fuse didn't blow. The wiring for the switch for the lights was ALL replaced with 12 ga wire, new switch is rated 75A @ 12V, old switch was only 20A @ 12V. I'd almost recommend installing a "Fusable Link" into the wiring of these tractors like used in cars/trucks but I don't have any experience with them.
I almost lost My 72 to fire about 5 yrs ago. The light switch was getting "Fussy" about working, Typical hardware store "standard" push-pull switch, plenty of amp & volt capacity for the lights, One night when I was done mowing the lights automatically went out, turned the switch off, wiggled it a bit, turned it on/off a few times, put the 72 away and as usual disconnected the ground cable on the battery. Next day went out to do more yard work and discovered the connecting terminals on the switch had BURNED OFF the side of the switch from the heat of the resistance inside the switch. The switch is mounted in the OEM location so all this was going on less than an inch from the battery. The lead to the switch was fused, 10A if I remember right, fuse didn't blow. The wiring for the switch for the lights was ALL replaced with 12 ga wire, new switch is rated 75A @ 12V, old switch was only 20A @ 12V. I'd almost recommend installing a "Fusable Link" into the wiring of these tractors like used in cars/trucks but I don't have any experience with them.