Archive through November 16, 2009

[dfrisk]

KENDELL - Digital calipers is something I know a bit about. ONE name, Mitutoyo. I had a couple cheap verniers, one was even plastic. But the MIT Digical 0-6" is the "Go To Tool" in my shop for measuring everything where a +/- .003" tolerance is O-K. For "Fussy Stuff" Son bought a complete set of Mit 0-5" digital mic's one-at-a-time off evil-bay. All good stuff, resolution to .00005" which is good enough for Me. He even got an older SUNNEN dial bore gauge.

Dust/dirt throwing measurements off is a fact of life. Clean the jaws or contacts, the part your measuring, etc. and measure everything twice.

Guess I spent too much time hanging around my friends in QA. They always tried to get my Stanley Powerloc 12 ft tape into their calibration system but carrying it around in my pocket kept wearing the certification sticker off. ;-)

 

[lkortkamp]

One thing you'll find with calipers, is how you use them will determine the size you measure.

Dealing with them at work constantly, I've seen guys bend the tips to "Get the right dimension". Wrong! Or they grind the taper off the internal sides, trying to get them to read "big enough". Wrong!

I can get my 12" dial Mit's to read just about as close as a micrometer(within a .001). Got to have "feel". After 10+ yrs, the ID side still is within about .0015 of OD(without having to reset my zero).

BTW, I've worked at same shop for 23 yrs.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Larry, there was an optional hydraulic blade angle kit. The Cub Cadet would require front hydraulic outlets, I believe the 1450 and 1650 were the first models that could be outfitted with optional dual spool controls and front outlets. I suppose the 1250 should be in that list as well as it could be outfitted with an optional hydraulic lift.

 

[kide]

Larry:
My dad was a toolmaker...I was indoctrinated into measuring with "feel".. I've still got all of his mechanical (non-digital) measuring tools. Almost all of his work was in jigs and precision measuring fixtures for automotive mfrs (mostly Olds), so he worked 1/2 tenths (used a Moore jig grinder with 50 millionths repeatability on a 3 foot travel table), so his tools were good - most of his later stuff was Japanese (Mitutoyo). He got out of it before the digital age, although he had one of the first consumer grade pocket calcs with all the trig functions (about '72 IIRC). The shop he worked in was big in tape controlled numeric control at the time , but that was "for the kids".. When I use his stuff for working on the Cubs, I feel like a butcher carving with a surgeon's scalpels..

Dennis: yup, cleaning measuring tools is a way of life .. but magnetized calipers are miserable to get the slivers off of..

 

[lkortkamp]

I'm far from an actual machinist, I do everything but that, but taught myself to turn handles when it comes to "gov't jobs" that I need to do. I have been in our "inspection dept" for decades and I know the actual machinist here tend to beat up their stuff where I try to make it last(and be repeatable). Granted my stuff works on clean tables where their stuff is in coolant and chips. Lucky the stuff we deal with is not less then +.0005 tolerance, as it's not rocket science. We manufacture/rebuild screws/barrels for injection/extrusion machines. Our favorite line is "Looks good from an airplane" or "the plastic won't care" LMAO!!!

Thanks for the heads up on the power angle. I'm thinking I'd like to retro fit something to my 149. I'm thinking I might be able to tap into my hydro to get enough power to angle the blade? Using a soleniod to control a spool valve to just bump it one way/the other.

One other way I thought was duplicating one of the Johnny Bucket arrangements using a electric linear actuator to move the blade. Simple toggle switch to control it. Might be easier then plumbing hydro? I found Northern Tool has one for $150. The power is limited, but just to tilt the blade it should work. The holding power is what I'm concerned with. Bang it into something and it might shear? The speed is also very, very slow.

I found this place:
http://servocity.com/html/12v_linear_actuators.html

They offer more powerful stuff(and faster), but the cost goes up too(go figure).

 

[dross]

Luther, thank you for posting that part number.

 

[dtanner]

Bored because of a lack of parts , so I made up a cork gasket for the pump. All I had here was 1/8" cork rubber and that will have to do.

and then I ahve a rear axel seal here for my O as it likes to mark a spot where it sits. I have replaced the left rear axel seal and now`s the time to do the other.]

 

[dtanner]

I think i`am starting to see a patern here. I post and the place goes silent

But the O had agrease job and a new axel seal so now a

 

[kide]

Don:
Nice work - you know that that gasket may only last 29 years?? .....

 

[kide]

Don:
Apparently one of us is "Chief Forum Killer"

 

[jlarsen]

I work in a tool and die shop. Sure comes in handy,made a new shaft for a Q42a snowthrower to day. Was ready to put it back on ,the drive pulley was wore . Well a bore and bush job next.

 

[aschumacher]

We just had a Bush job didn't we?

 

[dtanner]

I Like Bush jobs..

 

[digger]

Well it looks like the forum has pretty well gone to pot!
Lets see, if we can clean this place up before I can get this one done.

 

[digger]

Larry K.
I can send ya pics of this one. It works great.

 

[lkortkamp]

Interesting Charlie. I've seen the pics on the internet, the video clips they show. Pretty cool unit. Not sure I'll build one, but though I'd use their idea for the linear actuator for the angle of my blade. Only issue is the cost of the actuator, as the one strong enough to survive is $400(ouch). Guess for now, I'll just have to get off the seat and adjust it manually. I'm working 4 days/wk now and extra cash for that kinda toy is out of the question right now.

I really dream of building one of the front loaders, but again not this winter.

Thanks.

 

[sblunier]

I'll check in just long enough to say that while it's been terribly busy around here I have done a few Cub related jobs.

2072 has the Haban blade installed and the 1872 has the loader back on it. Hayrack flat tire is fixed too. Garden got plowed (but that will be all of the plowing this fall).

House remodel is done, but work is still crazy with all of the late season grain dryers. Beans are out and made 53 bu/acre. Corn is about 1/3 out and dried down to 22-24%, but the weather and late season drying mean hour long lines at the elevator to dump. I'm guessing we will be done around 12/1 at this rate (provided we don't have to make any more repairs...last weekend we pulled the rotor in the 1460 to replace a bad drive coupler...)

Anyway, more forum time and Cub time in the near future (I have a loader sub frame to re-make/reinforce this winter).

 

[dtanner]

Charlie "Digger" Proctor
Why don`t you send that pile of tractors over here I`am running out of things to repair.

I wish I could weld that would be a big help repairing the fenders I have here. I`am off to get my pump shaft redrilled so I can install the drive shaft when it arrives here *snail Mail* lol I saw some water come out of the axle tube yesterday when I had it apart to replace the seal. The rear end fluid was good ,just a couple ounce outside the seal? I

where that gets in ? Later Don T

 

[dtanner]

Kendell Ide
Man you need more light in the confuser area. Looks kind of dark in there.
I let a friend use the Cub Hauling trailer and he called last night to ask to buy it.Said he had 2x6 and 2x 10 piled on it 4ft tall and was impressed with the way it handled the load of 14 ft stock. I told him he has 2 days to get it back here as I need to take the 129 loader to the shop and get the hyd hoses removed and a neater job done installing them so I can open the hood. I should have a rack like Charlie to set the Cubs on so they would not fill up all my storage places. I like pictures so here is the 129 loader yet to be finished. Later Don T

 

[stanner]

Home today working on the 149.... Going to install the rear into the frame, and sandblast the fenders....

These are the fenders I bought last year at a tractor boneyard by Montezuma, NY for $28.00... just a little surface rust ans a small bend from a tire chain snag... Should clean up nice...

I snapped some pics of the routing for the reat tail lights for posterity:

With any luck it'll be in primer tonight...
When that is done, It is time for a little something momma brought back from Toronto last weekend: