Jeff F. I have o'hauled my 126 and 147. No special tools,just ring compressor,torque wrenches,flywheel puller,etc.The "K" series Kohler engine manual is still available and is well written and easy to read. The IH manual for that series of Cub Cadets is GSS-1404 and covers the entire tractor (I have a reprint) Downloads are available,but a hard copy is nice for a quick lookup out in the shop. The cylinder tends to wear worse at the bottom,take out the piston to be sure. Both of mine needed to be rebored and the crank turned for the rod. The mains are ball bearings and looked very good in mine. The balance gears are suspect and sometimes fail, destroying the crankcase. Some people leave them out when they do an o'haul(Idid). If you still have the original fabric and rubber coated style wiring harness,this is a good time to replace it,too.
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Archive through March 04, 2009
- Thread starter jfsirois
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KRAIG - I didn't make it to that PD, I think the plowing depth limit was something like 6 inches deep. Get caught deeper than that they confiscated Your plow! Seemed odd since Cubbies run out of ground clearance before JD's do but the JD Guys complained.
ANYHOW, on the sleeve hitch pic's, if anyone wants more detailed pic's or dimensions just ask. It pulls a plow well, attaches to the brackets on the axle carriers with two 1/2" pins (top pic) and to the lift arms on the rockshaft with the OEM washers & hairpins. The lift arms (long yellow bars) clear My fenders and also WF fenders, probably all flat-top fenders but I don't think they'll clear round fenders without some adjustments. Only takes a minute to install or remove. And remember, This is a Sleeve hitch only, You don't need a CC 3-point AND a Brinley adapter, Just this to pull a plow. But this won't work with other CC 3-point attachments.
The brackets on the axle carriers also attach My lawn-vac to this tractor, and I also use this hitch to pull & lift My lawn aerator.
Back 25 yrs ago when I built it all I had for fabrication equip. was an AC buzzbox welder, a 4" x 6" bandsaw, a 7" angle grinder, a 100 yr old drill press (Museum piece!) and a cheap Dremel. If I built a new one I would change a couple things, it would look better and go together quicker but I doubt it could work any better.
ANYHOW, on the sleeve hitch pic's, if anyone wants more detailed pic's or dimensions just ask. It pulls a plow well, attaches to the brackets on the axle carriers with two 1/2" pins (top pic) and to the lift arms on the rockshaft with the OEM washers & hairpins. The lift arms (long yellow bars) clear My fenders and also WF fenders, probably all flat-top fenders but I don't think they'll clear round fenders without some adjustments. Only takes a minute to install or remove. And remember, This is a Sleeve hitch only, You don't need a CC 3-point AND a Brinley adapter, Just this to pull a plow. But this won't work with other CC 3-point attachments.
The brackets on the axle carriers also attach My lawn-vac to this tractor, and I also use this hitch to pull & lift My lawn aerator.
Back 25 yrs ago when I built it all I had for fabrication equip. was an AC buzzbox welder, a 4" x 6" bandsaw, a 7" angle grinder, a 100 yr old drill press (Museum piece!) and a cheap Dremel. If I built a new one I would change a couple things, it would look better and go together quicker but I doubt it could work any better.
A week ago I reported my 127 engine ran for the first time and I periodically turn the switch just to hear it. My next challenge is the speed control lever. The handle will not come off so I'm stimied in further disassembly to start refirb. Allen screw is out, PB Blaster has been liberally applied and I've beaten on the top but no movement so far. Also, The control will not move forward or back ... it won't budge. I remember Don Tanner posting pictures about a stuck handle and taking the linkage apart at the bottom and taking the handle and shaft out still in the tower. I've been up under the frame but can't see where to disconnect. Still lots of oily dirt under there. Guess I need to stand on my head and clean some more. Oh to have a pressure cleaner handy. Any Helpful ideas will be appreciated
Strait,
A can of Gunk engine degreaser and a garden hose will do the job of degreasing. The speed control cable is connected to a bell crank assembly which links as well to the governor arm via a spring. There is also a clamp which holds the outer casing in place. Once the speed control cable is free, you can attempt to work some of your favorite rust buster formulation in there. You may also find the cable is kinked, crushed, or hopelessly rusted. In this case your best bet might be to go to a parts store and try and find a new generic cable and wire assembly, and make it work with the current lever assembly, or be prepared to pony up the $$ for a new one.
A can of Gunk engine degreaser and a garden hose will do the job of degreasing. The speed control cable is connected to a bell crank assembly which links as well to the governor arm via a spring. There is also a clamp which holds the outer casing in place. Once the speed control cable is free, you can attempt to work some of your favorite rust buster formulation in there. You may also find the cable is kinked, crushed, or hopelessly rusted. In this case your best bet might be to go to a parts store and try and find a new generic cable and wire assembly, and make it work with the current lever assembly, or be prepared to pony up the $$ for a new one.
bbrigham
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Dennis, I like that design, nice.
Kraig, Seems we can't find where Charlie hid it, ya...thats it...here's the weights I found. Not sure but are they Ford/Jacobsen weights ?
They'll work nicely on one of the Cubs. The guy said they were 50# each but I don't think so.
Kraig, Seems we can't find where Charlie hid it, ya...thats it...here's the weights I found. Not sure but are they Ford/Jacobsen weights ?
They'll work nicely on one of the Cubs. The guy said they were 50# each but I don't think so.
Bruce., the lectures I got were before I even got on the cub. I was told to always check the oil before use. Dad stressed "Every Time".
I never seized an engine(ouch!).
The "Now get in the house" statement was said after a lecture for doing something I knew was wrong. Lets see... mowing in 3rd gear, driving into the garage with the deck still engaged, driving the cub to the gas station, getting off the cub with the deck engaged, cutting the electric cord the the swimming pool(I was told to walk the yard and look for objects), running into the pool after a tie rod came off. Hosting a tug of war with the nieghbors Crapsman.
The big talk came after Dad took the key to the cub(see above). One Saturday I found that the cub could be started with a flat screwdriver. Neadless to say, Dad got home early and found me doing donuts in the yard 3rd gear wide open. After that the garage was locked when Dad was not home.
I learned alot from my father working on the cub,his truck,and moms car. He always said that knowing how something works is halfway to getting it fixed.
I never seized an engine(ouch!).
The "Now get in the house" statement was said after a lecture for doing something I knew was wrong. Lets see... mowing in 3rd gear, driving into the garage with the deck still engaged, driving the cub to the gas station, getting off the cub with the deck engaged, cutting the electric cord the the swimming pool(I was told to walk the yard and look for objects), running into the pool after a tie rod came off. Hosting a tug of war with the nieghbors Crapsman.
The big talk came after Dad took the key to the cub(see above). One Saturday I found that the cub could be started with a flat screwdriver. Neadless to say, Dad got home early and found me doing donuts in the yard 3rd gear wide open. After that the garage was locked when Dad was not home.
I learned alot from my father working on the cub,his truck,and moms car. He always said that knowing how something works is halfway to getting it fixed.
Todd,
I wonder how the Cub did against the Craftsman? I've never run one, but my brother worked for a guy when we were in high school who used one to mow lawns for people, and my brother was always working on it for him. He had nothing good to say about it, so I guess we were spoiled by the Cub, even as worn out and abused as it was.
You ran it into the pool? I just broke the steering box by running it into a fire hydrant on the corner of the property. Running too fast and cutting the wheel too quickly (or not quickly enough)
I wonder how the Cub did against the Craftsman? I've never run one, but my brother worked for a guy when we were in high school who used one to mow lawns for people, and my brother was always working on it for him. He had nothing good to say about it, so I guess we were spoiled by the Cub, even as worn out and abused as it was.
You ran it into the pool? I just broke the steering box by running it into a fire hydrant on the corner of the property. Running too fast and cutting the wheel too quickly (or not quickly enough)
Strait Hollis (Shollis) Here is a shot of your 127 hydro controls. i had no problems to remove the handle after i used a block of wood and a hammer.lol The sticking problem was at the bottom of the shaft and well after soaking it many times a hammer and a punch was used with a light tap on the base to spin it. The rest is history lol
Strait,
I guess my advice applies to the throttle cable, rather than the hydro lever. About the only thing I might be able to add to Donald's advice is to check to make sure the pedal linkage is working properly as well. When the pedal is depressed it is supposed to bring the hydro lever back to neutral, so there's a possibility that if something is hanging up with the pedal linkage, that may prevent the hydro lever from moving.
I guess my advice applies to the throttle cable, rather than the hydro lever. About the only thing I might be able to add to Donald's advice is to check to make sure the pedal linkage is working properly as well. When the pedal is depressed it is supposed to bring the hydro lever back to neutral, so there's a possibility that if something is hanging up with the pedal linkage, that may prevent the hydro lever from moving.
