J
jott
Guest
Dave R. ummm...which gasket are you talking about? there arent any cork gaskets that I saw
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Matt G., I keep forgetting "we" have a headlight installation manual for the 70/100, I keep thinking we only have the one for the Original.
Josh, the cork gasket between the hydrostatic pump and the rear differential.
Here are some links to the FAQ that might be useful.
Hydro Gasket
Finding Hydro leaks Part 1
Finding Hydro leaks Part 2
Josh, the cork gasket between the hydrostatic pump and the rear differential.
Here are some links to the FAQ that might be useful.
Hydro Gasket
Finding Hydro leaks Part 1
Finding Hydro leaks Part 2
stanner
Well-known member
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- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Dennis,
MTBE was banned here in NY (as well as other states) a few years ago because it was getting into the ground water... In NY, we have 10% corn juice 24/7/365.. IT balls up our MPG by 3 MPG...
MTBE was banned here in NY (as well as other states) a few years ago because it was getting into the ground water... In NY, we have 10% corn juice 24/7/365.. IT balls up our MPG by 3 MPG...
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
I'm not even going to try to jump head-first into this gasoline debate, but wouldn't a large part of a person's fuel problems have to do with how it is stored, or how the tractors it is being used in are stored?
I've seen many small gas cans with the "vent-cap" missing... Totally gone... THAT can't be doing the fuel stored in the container much good.
Also, if you park a piece of equipment outside, or in a garage that sees large (or fast) temperature swings throughout the day, and each day, THAT probably has a large ffect on the volitility of the fuel as well.
Like I said, I'm not jumping in on this one, but just a couple thoughts which have been bouncing around in my head whenever someone talks about fuel-related problems.
I've seen many small gas cans with the "vent-cap" missing... Totally gone... THAT can't be doing the fuel stored in the container much good.
Also, if you park a piece of equipment outside, or in a garage that sees large (or fast) temperature swings throughout the day, and each day, THAT probably has a large ffect on the volitility of the fuel as well.
Like I said, I'm not jumping in on this one, but just a couple thoughts which have been bouncing around in my head whenever someone talks about fuel-related problems.
J
jott
Guest
I havnt gotten that far yet to see if it is leaking up in front. I have all of the connections disconnectedI only hve to take the transmission bolts out now. I will give an update later.
Hi all. I only use premium (high test) in all my small engines. I always turn off the fuel and ,let the Cub idle a little before i shut them down. I use a fuel stabilizer in the winter and will add to the tank and start them up till I see that they are burning the stabil. Never had an issue with my 8 Cubs for starting.The Cubs I use in the winter have heated storage so they run great. I do have all the parts on order for the drive line on my latest tractor and i feel great about all the help I get here. I cant say enuf about all the GREAT people here on this site. Thanks Charlie for offering to collect and ship used tractor parts for me. YOUR THE MAN. Just a great Cub Day for me. Later Don T
Here's my input on gasoline. First off I always put some Marvel Mystery Oil (it's supposed to have some gas stabilizing properties) in the gas can(s) before I go to my local fuel station to fill up. I have an MTD rear tine tiller with a 5hp B&S engine on it that I bought new in the early 1990's. When I finish using it for the last time in the fall I just shut it off and then fill the fuel tank up full. I have NEVER had a problem with this engine. The following spring it usually fires on the first pull with full choke and starts/stays running on the second pull. As an example, I did not use it from the fall of 2007 until the fall of 2008, about 6 months longer between starts than typical and it actually started on the first pull, better than it usually starts, go figure. My Cub Cadet's, Allis Chalmers 620, chainsaw and string trimmer (these two also get the premix oil) and generator all get the same MMO treated gas, no gas related starting issues when them. Back when I used to ride snowmobile, I quit riding in the late 1990's, they typically were filled with gas straight from the fuel station pumps and every fall I would have to clean the carbs and fix the sticking chokes due to gas gumming up in them. I always keep a tight cap and vent cap on my gas cans. gas cans are stored either inside my attached garage or inside my shed.
Art,
You took the thoughts right out of my head!
You're absolutely correct.
To keep stored fuel 'good, it should be should be stored in a SEALED container, without any venting.
By having vented storage, this allows the lighter, more volatile components of the fuel to vaporize and "leave" the mixture; leaving behind only the heavier fuel components.
In addition, oxygen in the air will combine with the fuel and produce less 'burnable' fuel.
Realize too that many "safety cans" have a spring-loaded relief valve/lid that will prevent the fuel from building pressure, which is a good thing to keep the can from leaking or bursting, but a bad thing for keeping the fuel good for any amount of time.
Pressure is usually built up inside the sealed container if it is warmed.
To keep a sealed container pressure build up to a minimum, keep the container cool and out of direct sunlight.
Although a lesser concern, but still an issue, is the heating and cooling of OPEN VENTED containerized fuel becoming contaminated with moisture. This can occur as the empty air space inside the tank or container warms (expands) and cools (contracts). This heating and cooling may only be a few degrees, but it will still cause air to be 'drawn in and out' of the container or tank. Any moisture or humidity in the air has a tendency to condensate once inside the container and thus allowing the condensated water to add itself into the fuel. Not a good thing. This is how containers and fuel tanks get rusty on the inside. For this is the reason why folks say, "Top off your tank when you go to store it." So, by keeping the containers/tanks full will reduce the amount of empty air space above the level of fuel inside the tank and reduce the amount of air in and out of the container & the amount of humidity/moisture that could fallout inside.
So, if you are unable to seal your Cubs fuel tank or storage container, try to keep/store it in a cool place, covered in the shade, and keep it full.
If you ARE able to SEAL your fuel storage container, then by all means keep it cool, thus preventing it from building pressure and leaking or bursting.
By the way, in the case of our Cubs, especially those Cubs with the fuel tank mounted right above the engine, DO NOT re-fill the tank right after running the engine. Obviously not only does this pose a fire safety hazard if any is spilled or dripped down onto a warm/hot engine - but more to this fuel storage discussion - the tank will warm up from the engine and will cause the fuel to expand beyond the tank capacity. So, if full, some fuel may be pushed out the vented cap and caused to seep out over the tank and possibly down onto the engine.
THE FIX? Don't re-fill the fuel tank right away. Wait an hour for the engine/tank to cool down, then re-fill the tank to full status.
Personally - I don't worry so much about running my carb dry, rather I try to start/run all my Cubs, push mowers, roto-tiller, etc. at least once a month for ~10 minutes. By doing so, I ensure I run out the fuel that may be getting stale in the carb & fuel lines and vaporize any moisture that may have condensated inside the crankcase. I don't use STABIL, rather I've had good results with just using premium or mid-grade, name-brand gasoline. I also use MMO in the fuel & motor oil of my air-cooled engines. During the winter months, I may even lift my Cub(s) on the floor jack and let it run the hydromatic in gear to warm the trans/rearend lube. I do this mainly so the seals all get some lube and 'flexing excercise'.
MTBE = Methyl Tert-Butyl Ether. A component added when lead was removed. Now banned in many locations, as Scott T. indicated.
Ryan Wilke
You took the thoughts right out of my head!
You're absolutely correct.
To keep stored fuel 'good, it should be should be stored in a SEALED container, without any venting.
By having vented storage, this allows the lighter, more volatile components of the fuel to vaporize and "leave" the mixture; leaving behind only the heavier fuel components.
In addition, oxygen in the air will combine with the fuel and produce less 'burnable' fuel.
Realize too that many "safety cans" have a spring-loaded relief valve/lid that will prevent the fuel from building pressure, which is a good thing to keep the can from leaking or bursting, but a bad thing for keeping the fuel good for any amount of time.
Pressure is usually built up inside the sealed container if it is warmed.
To keep a sealed container pressure build up to a minimum, keep the container cool and out of direct sunlight.
Although a lesser concern, but still an issue, is the heating and cooling of OPEN VENTED containerized fuel becoming contaminated with moisture. This can occur as the empty air space inside the tank or container warms (expands) and cools (contracts). This heating and cooling may only be a few degrees, but it will still cause air to be 'drawn in and out' of the container or tank. Any moisture or humidity in the air has a tendency to condensate once inside the container and thus allowing the condensated water to add itself into the fuel. Not a good thing. This is how containers and fuel tanks get rusty on the inside. For this is the reason why folks say, "Top off your tank when you go to store it." So, by keeping the containers/tanks full will reduce the amount of empty air space above the level of fuel inside the tank and reduce the amount of air in and out of the container & the amount of humidity/moisture that could fallout inside.
So, if you are unable to seal your Cubs fuel tank or storage container, try to keep/store it in a cool place, covered in the shade, and keep it full.
If you ARE able to SEAL your fuel storage container, then by all means keep it cool, thus preventing it from building pressure and leaking or bursting.
By the way, in the case of our Cubs, especially those Cubs with the fuel tank mounted right above the engine, DO NOT re-fill the tank right after running the engine. Obviously not only does this pose a fire safety hazard if any is spilled or dripped down onto a warm/hot engine - but more to this fuel storage discussion - the tank will warm up from the engine and will cause the fuel to expand beyond the tank capacity. So, if full, some fuel may be pushed out the vented cap and caused to seep out over the tank and possibly down onto the engine.
THE FIX? Don't re-fill the fuel tank right away. Wait an hour for the engine/tank to cool down, then re-fill the tank to full status.
Personally - I don't worry so much about running my carb dry, rather I try to start/run all my Cubs, push mowers, roto-tiller, etc. at least once a month for ~10 minutes. By doing so, I ensure I run out the fuel that may be getting stale in the carb & fuel lines and vaporize any moisture that may have condensated inside the crankcase. I don't use STABIL, rather I've had good results with just using premium or mid-grade, name-brand gasoline. I also use MMO in the fuel & motor oil of my air-cooled engines. During the winter months, I may even lift my Cub(s) on the floor jack and let it run the hydromatic in gear to warm the trans/rearend lube. I do this mainly so the seals all get some lube and 'flexing excercise'.
MTBE = Methyl Tert-Butyl Ether. A component added when lead was removed. Now banned in many locations, as Scott T. indicated.
Ryan Wilke
wow, look what i started.
all i know is, i used to be able to leave gas in for that season. lawn mower could have gas in it all summer.
now, i cant even leave gas in it over night, without stabilizer.
the mechanic blamed the gas, took his advice, have not had a problem.
to be fair to those who blame storage, i have not experimented with different types of cans, so you might be right.
as for using anything but regular, the mechanic also said i could use the higher grades, because the higher grades are processed differently.
again, i forget the difference, but i think it was the regular was oxygenated, higher grades are not.
i will try to talk to the mechanic today. to find out his exact reason for blaming the gas.
i believe MTBE was banned just about everywhere in the world. it had any annoying habit of defying physics, even gravity, and escaping from tanks that were not leaking, traveling many miles, even uphill, and ending up in drinking water wells.
i remember reading some articles of leaks of an incredibly small amount being traced back to a gas station that did not have a tank leak.
they believed even a normal drop of gas on the ground would travel many miles.
all i know is, i used to be able to leave gas in for that season. lawn mower could have gas in it all summer.
now, i cant even leave gas in it over night, without stabilizer.
the mechanic blamed the gas, took his advice, have not had a problem.
to be fair to those who blame storage, i have not experimented with different types of cans, so you might be right.
as for using anything but regular, the mechanic also said i could use the higher grades, because the higher grades are processed differently.
again, i forget the difference, but i think it was the regular was oxygenated, higher grades are not.
i will try to talk to the mechanic today. to find out his exact reason for blaming the gas.
i believe MTBE was banned just about everywhere in the world. it had any annoying habit of defying physics, even gravity, and escaping from tanks that were not leaking, traveling many miles, even uphill, and ending up in drinking water wells.
i remember reading some articles of leaks of an incredibly small amount being traced back to a gas station that did not have a tank leak.
they believed even a normal drop of gas on the ground would travel many miles.
All this discussion of gas--in particular, bad gas due to long term storage--has prompted me to share a little practical experience in the matter. I'm not recommending that anyone do what I've done. I know it's bad practice. I have a little more knowledge of gasoline quality than I'll admit because I'm not an expert in the field. Anyway, here it is:
We have a Scout that we drove for a couple years. It looked great at a glance, but the body mounts and floors were some of the worst I've found. It finally got to the point of not being safe to drive--maybe a little beyond that point (seatbelts pulled out of the floor). That was in early 2005. It's been sitting outside behind the shed in central Indiana through 4 winters and 5 summers in a vented tank. I finally decided this summer to strip the useful parts off the truck and get rid of the carcass. I got ready to pull the 33 gallon gas tank out and realized that it's well over half full so I started pumping it out. The gas smelled a little stale, but I didn't want to dump it or just burn it for a lot of reasons. I thought about giving it to a friend who has been know to blend a little of everything to run through his Mercedes diesel. I'm going to be rebuilding my 126 completely this winter and I have a few spare K301s, so I figured why not try it in the Cub Cadet. I've put about 15 gallons through the K301 over the course of the last month and a half with no starting problems, no loss of power, no carb adjustments, etc. It's been used only for mowing duty, but I'm running a 48" deck and cutting 10" tall grass at times. This makes me wonder how bad gas has to get and how long it takes it to get there in order to cause all the problems it gets blamed for. By the way, I've never used a fuel stabilizer in anything. Draw your own conclusions.
Jerry
We have a Scout that we drove for a couple years. It looked great at a glance, but the body mounts and floors were some of the worst I've found. It finally got to the point of not being safe to drive--maybe a little beyond that point (seatbelts pulled out of the floor). That was in early 2005. It's been sitting outside behind the shed in central Indiana through 4 winters and 5 summers in a vented tank. I finally decided this summer to strip the useful parts off the truck and get rid of the carcass. I got ready to pull the 33 gallon gas tank out and realized that it's well over half full so I started pumping it out. The gas smelled a little stale, but I didn't want to dump it or just burn it for a lot of reasons. I thought about giving it to a friend who has been know to blend a little of everything to run through his Mercedes diesel. I'm going to be rebuilding my 126 completely this winter and I have a few spare K301s, so I figured why not try it in the Cub Cadet. I've put about 15 gallons through the K301 over the course of the last month and a half with no starting problems, no loss of power, no carb adjustments, etc. It's been used only for mowing duty, but I'm running a 48" deck and cutting 10" tall grass at times. This makes me wonder how bad gas has to get and how long it takes it to get there in order to cause all the problems it gets blamed for. By the way, I've never used a fuel stabilizer in anything. Draw your own conclusions.
Jerry
JERRY M. - Get Yourself an old FARMALL H or M and burn up your stale gas in it. Three years ago when I was going down to DAD's place every weekend for 2-1/2 days to clean out all His old barns We were dumping gas out of his old plastic 5 gal cans into the M. It needed some tuning of the carb but started & ran well.
Then I sprinkled some of Dad's gas onto a trash pile and tried to light it on fire with my lighter. I absolutley could not get the raw liquid gas to burn with an open flame. I sprinkled some of My "Good Gas" I brought for My 129 and as one would expect, with a flick of a Bic the gas/trash all went WHHHOOOFFF!.
Old stale 2-stroke pre-mix, 1-2 yr old gas, those old FARMALL's burn it all! I used to dump old gas into My '78 F-150 w/300-6 carb'd engine but when I got the '87 w/ 300-6 w/EFI I had to stop that. Also, did You all know that STIHL recommends not running pre-mixed gas over 3 months old? And I've read where 2-week old pre-mixed gas/oil only has half the lubrication ability of fresh mix.
A lot of guys post over @ RPM about the problems they have with spark lugs in their old FARMALL's. They're running the equivalent of Champion D-21's (VERY hot plug!) when the engine was designed for a D-15, I have 20+ yr old D-15Y's in the Super H. Think the M has new D-18Y's. Either tractor can sit for 4-6 months and will start about the time the second cylinder fires.
Then I sprinkled some of Dad's gas onto a trash pile and tried to light it on fire with my lighter. I absolutley could not get the raw liquid gas to burn with an open flame. I sprinkled some of My "Good Gas" I brought for My 129 and as one would expect, with a flick of a Bic the gas/trash all went WHHHOOOFFF!.
Old stale 2-stroke pre-mix, 1-2 yr old gas, those old FARMALL's burn it all! I used to dump old gas into My '78 F-150 w/300-6 carb'd engine but when I got the '87 w/ 300-6 w/EFI I had to stop that. Also, did You all know that STIHL recommends not running pre-mixed gas over 3 months old? And I've read where 2-week old pre-mixed gas/oil only has half the lubrication ability of fresh mix.
A lot of guys post over @ RPM about the problems they have with spark lugs in their old FARMALL's. They're running the equivalent of Champion D-21's (VERY hot plug!) when the engine was designed for a D-15, I have 20+ yr old D-15Y's in the Super H. Think the M has new D-18Y's. Either tractor can sit for 4-6 months and will start about the time the second cylinder fires.
yo guys i was just out working on the 73 and the engine turns over as it normaly should but it just isent fireing i sprayed some starter fluid in the carb and that dident do the trick,cleaned all the connections along with the grounds thinking it might not be getting a spark and that also dident do any thing to help it fire
kide
Well-known member
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- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Dennis:
I believe it has a lot to do with the way the carb is built - an updraft or side draft with a removable float bowl and a pickup without the jets in the bottom of the bowl seem to have less problems for me than a downdraft (or the Mikuni's I've got with the jets in the bottom). I agree with Art that the container it's stored in makes a difference, also - prevent evaporation and you'll have ALL the components left in the can. As far as Stihl's three month recommendation - I think they want to sell more oil..but again, it'd make a lot of difference where it was stored - cold barn versus hot.. And premix losing half it's lubricity in two weeks?? Must be the stuff Sears gives you with their saws.....my 11 year old Husky 365 is still running on the Tanaka/pump gas mixes that I've always used and it still feels and runs like new. A 2 1/2 gallon can, depending on the time of year, may last me 6 months..
andandrewcoffeyimnotsurewhatyousaidbutafewcapsandsomepunctuationwouldsuremakeiteasiertoreadandmakeitlooklesslikeatwitterpost!!!!!
I believe it has a lot to do with the way the carb is built - an updraft or side draft with a removable float bowl and a pickup without the jets in the bottom of the bowl seem to have less problems for me than a downdraft (or the Mikuni's I've got with the jets in the bottom). I agree with Art that the container it's stored in makes a difference, also - prevent evaporation and you'll have ALL the components left in the can. As far as Stihl's three month recommendation - I think they want to sell more oil..but again, it'd make a lot of difference where it was stored - cold barn versus hot.. And premix losing half it's lubricity in two weeks?? Must be the stuff Sears gives you with their saws.....my 11 year old Husky 365 is still running on the Tanaka/pump gas mixes that I've always used and it still feels and runs like new. A 2 1/2 gallon can, depending on the time of year, may last me 6 months..
andandrewcoffeyimnotsurewhatyousaidbutafewcapsandsomepunctuationwouldsuremakeiteasiertoreadandmakeitlooklesslikeatwitterpost!!!!!
Kendell, my 17 year old Husky 45 (very similar to their current 455 Rancher) runs just fine on 6+ months old gas/oil. Still has the original spark plug, it's on it's second clutch, anti-vib bushings and bar and who knows how many chains...
Josh Ott
I just took out the rear end in my 1512 to replace that cork gasket. I see where it was leaking and will replace it now. another job completed.
You will need to remove the 4 bolts and the suction tube to get the pump off.
Nothing to it, I did my 129, and the 149 soon after I got them. Later Don T
I just took out the rear end in my 1512 to replace that cork gasket. I see where it was leaking and will replace it now. another job completed.
You will need to remove the 4 bolts and the suction tube to get the pump off.
Nothing to it, I did my 129, and the 149 soon after I got them. Later Don T
