Archive through May 07, 2014

[mhorozko]

Brian E Even so Splash in some MMO . Enjoy the exotic Fumes

 

[nbextermueller]

Yuck... MMO... Try Lucas Oil upper cylinder lubricant and injector cleaner. At least there is no "mystery" ingredients.

I just gotta give you trouble Michael. Mostly cause I'm anti-MMO.

 

[jgoodine]

Brian E, I'm glad she's running great,

glad your giving that machine the respect she deserves

 

[wcompton]

Kraig- The goal right now is RPR this year, fingers crossed.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - geez, somehow I jumped past your post. You musta posted right when I was writing or editing and adding info for Dave C.

Geez, I'm sure glad to hear she seems to be running right now. I want to go over a few things with you tho. You say you got the timing all set, and that's great. And it sounds like you went over the adjustments on the carb (I assume per the Operator or Service manual on how to make adjustments). And you said the spark plug has turned black - which honestly isn't unusual since these Kohlers like and I really mean like, to run rich. And you said the back firing has stopped, and that's terrific.

So, my question is - how quickly does the engine start? Is it almost "before" you turn the key? If it is then she is all set. If not, then you might still need to do some fine tuning.
(As an example, I'm wondering about whether your choke is fully closing the carb butterfly when you pull it - just needs adjustment of the cable. Or how loose your throttle shaft migh be in the carb body - which allows it to suck air and the carb doesn't adjust properly - just a few things like this).

But overall, it sounds like your PTO is working good and your mowing deck comes right up to speed quickly, so your governor must be good and your new belts must be ok, etc. Why don't you post some selfies so we can see that BIG grin you're wearing!!!!!!

Wyatt C - hey that pump is looking great but I see your flywheel shroud is missing. Based on the size and style of that grass screen I see I'm wondering how many horses are hiding in that narrow frame?

 

[sshaff]

Shultzie -- Very nice sickle setup on your 72! How close does the belt shield on your mower come to the brake adjustment bolt on your tractor? On mine, these two are making contact with each other -- so we can't even get the extension rod up to the rear hitch plate in order to secure it.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Those broken lift rod buttons aren't so bad to replace. Just use patience and throw away your cans of PB Blaster and WD 40 and use real rust remover.

Off to work. Everyone have a safe and wonderful day. BTW. yesterday, I took part of the day off and finaly used the 125 to mow lawn. First mowing of the season. Man that felt fantastic to have seat time again.

 

[bellwood]

@Harry: When I first started it, it was a little slow and rough with some white smoke due to the previous needle settings and likely due to some extra fuel in the head from being manually turned over during the timing...

Once I dialed the carb needle in though, the whole tone of the engine leveled out (the gov wasn't bouncing the throttle speed) and it stayed nice and strong...

I'll check how she starts today after work and let you know =)

 

[kshultz]

Steve S.

Dang, I forgot to take a closer look. I'll do that tonight and get some more detailed pics.

 

[lpalma]

I guess I know why my belt shield is missing...

 

[sshaff]

Lew-- We did consider removing the belt guard on mine but eventually had second thoughts... it was kind of an awkward process and would have been a pain to put back in place later if we wanted to do that for some reason. The 402D model was designed for narrow frame cubs so everything SHOULD fit, but...

 

[hydroharry]

Marlin H - ok, I know you're at work, but once you get off can you let us know your technique for fixing the lift rod button. As discussed, there are 2 types of breaks, one where the button breaks in half at the narrowing point, and the other where the button snaps off the rod itself.

Brian E - ok, we're waiting and don't forget the selfie.

Shultzie - why are you even cutting that grass? The snakes won't have any place to hide.

 

[kshultz]

Hydro,
Yeah, they have plenty of places to hide.
I usually run one pass around where I mow that way when the grass gets really tall it doesn't hang down and get in the way of mowing the short grass. Plus it's good seat time for the sickle bar mower.

 

[hydroharry]

Shultzie - sounds to me more like a reason to have another CC unit - 1 for the mowing deck, 1 for the sickle bar mower, 1 for the ......
NICE!!!! I like it.

 

[lpalma]

Steve,is the guard notched?I have scans of the two different ones,but are too large to post here.

 

[akleyla]

The lift rod buttons arent really that bad changing. Ive changed 2 now in the last 5 months. The first one was on my own and the other on my neighbors who liked my tractor so well with the snow thrower last winter he decided to go find him an IH CC too. We found him a 104 just like mine and he has the QA-36 thrower. Changing mine wasnt that hard,I took a grinder on the top and took off maybe 1/8 " then was able from using PB and some heat it loosened right off. My neighbors I had to take the lift arm off and then removed it. I too thought they were difficult to change but they are really easy to fix.

 

[hydroharry]

Amy - I believe your 104 would have the older style button that uses the wire bail to hold the button down in float position. Is so that style is a bit easier to fix, and as you say, you can probably cut a little off the top of the tube to get at the button and maybe not even have to weld it back on since the rubber handle would cover it - not sure tho since the holes for the wire bail are very close to the top.

The style buttons we're discussing here is a later version and the button has an cut out area just about mid way down. If you look at the pictures on the previous page you'll see what the button looks like.

 

[akleyla]

Harry nope the button I have is just like the ones on the previous page. I may be wrong but I think they are the same anyways ?


IH - Manual Lift Arm Button PN/ IH-401456-R2
Fits 1000, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 1100, 1200, 124, 125, 1250, 126, 127, 128, 129, 169, 72, 73, 800 and 86.

This is the button that goes on the top of the implement handle (the one you have to push to raise and lower implements)
http://ccspecialties.org/pics/liftbutton.jpg

 

[dfrisk]

If you study a parts BOOK, not sure it's mentioned in the parts look-up above, but even when the NF tractors were brand new and still being built, the inner rod that latches the lift lever into postion was NOT a servicable part. The whole lift lever and rockshaft had to be purchased as a complate welded assembly.

Think it was about 15 yrs ago I had one of the lift arms on the 72's rockshaft break off scraping ice off the driveway, too much side draft and too much "ramming speed". I took the whole rockshaft off and welded it back up, and in the process of moving the rockshaft on my work bench the top button hit something, not hard at all, but enough to break it. Then the inner rod twisted off. I had to make the new inner rod, bought the new top button, spring, washer, etc. assembled everything, last step was to heat & bend the lower end of the inner rod. You can not install it from below, has to be installed from the top while it's still straight, then bent. And you need a MAPP gas torch or acetylene torch to heat the bottom of the inner rod enough to bend properly.

 

[mschutz]

I have a Haban 402d on my 125 and come to think about it, I don't have a belt shield on it either. I just figured the shield got lost. Now I know why.