Archive through May 07, 2014

[fcbaird]

Started posting here back in 2004. My 126 needs an oil change. Is there a better oil than the IH low ash these days?

I have been searching around and couldn't find an answer. Could some one please point me in the right direction? I'm sure it's here somewhere. THX!

 

[jpatchett]

Frank B.

I use Shell Rotella T 30W Heavy Duty Motor Oil in 1 gallon containers, but I can't always find it in stock at the usual places. I almost never start my cubs at temps below 30F, so a straight grade works fine for me. I have seen on here some use Mobile 1 or other brand full synthetic multi-grade like 10w30.
I have always been of the following opinion: most any new SAE approved oil regardless of brand is better than used oil that has lost viscosity.

Jim

 

[hydroharry]

Amy - ok, so you said before you cut about 1/8" off the top (I assume top of the tube). How did you get down inside the tube to grab hold of what was left of the broken button?

Dennis - I really hate to say this, but what you describe is one of the very few reasons I'm glad there are some boneyards for these units. Getting a used lift arm assembly has got to be much easier than going thru what you described.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - I'm kinda like Marlin, after you've done a few it's not as bad as it sounds.... you'll just use HALF the tools in the shop while doing it.

There does come a time when there's no more usable used parts to be had.

I've had the rockshaft off the 72 a couple times. The frt end of the mower was hanging low one spring. I got looking under the tractor, the scissors linkage that holds the frt of the mower deck up had worn half way thru the rockshaft bar itself. I've actually built the rockshaft up twice, second time I put a wider plate on the fork so it doesn't wear the rockshaft nearly as fast.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Okay... here goes... Jack the tractor up , place it on car ramps only make sure it is secure when you're under it. Use a Mapp gas torch for quick heat to straighten the rod. Or if it is too worn then just cut it off. Push the rod and button straight up. NOW...THROW AWAY those cans of PB Blaster and get either STRONG ARM or CONKLIN. Spray either one of the two brands on the bottom where the threads are and hold the rod upside down so the penetrant can quickly enter and loosen the rust. Take two vice grips... one for the button and one to hold the rod and loosen and remove the button. Use anti-seize on the threads when installing the new button. Re-insert rod and re-heat bent area or weld a short piece of rod back on where worn piece was removed. I use a MAPP gas torch for quicker heat.

I won't ever recommend something that I personally haven't tried. Both of these two products make PB Blaster look like water.

Everyone remembers how rusted those little nuts get on the reflectors of the older Cub Cadets. You know... rusted so bad the bolt will break off when you try and remove the nut. Simply spray with either product and let set overnight. In the morning you'll be amazed at how easily the little nut comes off.

 

[lpalma]

here is what is on my sickle bar,it is a 402D

 

[hydroharry]

Marlin - ok, you make it sound pretty straight forward. I guess you've also done it enough times that you're very good at it. When I think of heating the bent end of the rod and straightening it I wonder how you can get the heat in there so close where the bend is sitting in the little detent teeth. There just ain't awhole lotta room there even when you have something holding what's left of the button in the down position. But, it seems you and Amy have done it, and more than once so I guess it's possible. Thanks to you and Amy and Dennis for your explanations and for advising it is possible. I'm still gonna file it away under things that are hard(er) to do, but get easier the 2nd, 3rd or 4th time.

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

I have a torch here and I bet if you heat the tube it will expand to let the broken piece fall out

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - Marlin and Amy are both doing this withOUT taking the lift arm off the tractor. They apparently jack the tractor up and crawl underneath and heat the end of the rod so they can bend it straight and then the rod has to be pushed "up" thru the top of the tube. It doesn't fall out.

Now, it's getting late on the east coast and I wonder why we don't have an update from Brien E.

 

[kshultz]