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Archive through March 26, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Tom, I have a 1650 and i'm personally looking forward to trading it off for a 149 at plowday in Iowa. I just can't get use to the hydro lever to go forward and reverse on the right side! LOL
IMOP your 169 is a better machine.
Just my .02
 
Charlie, is that "my" 1250 facing backwards with the hood off?
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Jeff,

Thanks for the quick reply. The 1650 has the lever on the opposite side? That might be funny getting used to.

I know to hard mount the engine on the 1650 if I get it. any other hints?

I am pretty sure implements will switch off between 169 and 1650 but again experience in the forum will give me the asnwer soon enough.
 
Tom H,
What IDIOT told you to solid mount a 1650 engine????
Your going to make a puller out of it?
Pulelrs don't like hydros ya know.
 
Charlie,

Not making a puller. It is for a 5 acre yard and a long driveway snowplow.

Thought the Iso Mounts were a known problem on the Quietlines. As I understand it mounting with the proper solid spacers makes the tractor stonger.
 
Tom, no you wouldn't want to solid mount it but there are improvements that can and should be done to the iso mounts. We can provide that info if need be and it might even be in one of the FAQs. And Jeff is right if you are used to the left hand hydro lever like on your 169 then the right hand hydro lever will take some getting used to.
 
Tom, here is a link to the info in the FAQ on the iso mount upgrade.

I should point out to Charlie that the two photos in the iso mount FAQ with the cardboard background were provided by Richard C., the others are from David Kirk and Bryan McMeen.
 
Charlie, should I head down with a trailer big enough to haul those 4 worthless 1250s to my place?
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Digger, That employee #"5137"


That looks like Johnny Cash!

"one piece at a time"
 
Tom H:

I have a 1450 and I love it. IMHO, one of IH's best built Cubs. The hydro handle is on the same side as my 784. No problem getting use to it.

Like Charlie said, solid mounts are NOT a good thing.



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Got the 129 runnin' today. sanded the blower housing, points bracket & coil bracket/ changed the plug wire/rolled the engine over until the points were wide open, gapped to .020 & BAM, she fired ran about 3 minutes, died out & won't restart. Engine was rattlin' a good bit. Hope it ain't trashed after I put the tractor back together.
 
Charlie,
So do you have a story behind ol' Mr. Donald R. Lundy, Indy Works employee #5137 ?
If so, please share it!

I notice that they were still using two "e's" in the spelling of 'employee' on the card, as I recall Dennis Fisk's comment back on 3-21-07 about the "one E" issue.
Ryan W
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I have the deck on the 682 raised as high as I can get it & the deck wheels are still contacting the ground. Is that correct? What's the white bracket on the lift handle for?
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C.D., the white bracket is for a lift rod to lift a dozer blade or snowthrower. Regarding the mower deck lift height, wear or a bend in a few key places can limit the lift height.
 
C.D., check the two areas I indicated for wear. With the left-most arrow check the lift strap on the mower deck subframe and the pin on the tractor for wear, be sure to check both sides of the tractor and deck subframe. With the right-most arrow, check the rockshaft on the tractor for wear, and on the mower deck subframe check for wear and a bend in the "fork" that goes over the rockshaft. I know that Steve B., has posted some on improving/correcting mower deck lift height by fixing the wear and by bending the deck subframes in specific locations. I'll see if I can find that info.

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C.D., I found Steve B's post on mower deck lift height!

I changed the front tires on the 782 a month ago and finally got around to re-leveling the deck. The Multi Trac CS 16x6.50's were a touch shorter than the old Good Years, and the deck was running way "nose-down". Wouldn't you know it, the eyebolts were all drawn up tight...no more adjustment.

You guys have heard me explain Big Steve's fix for this, but it's hard to explain without pictures....so I took some this time.

To fix a "nose down" deck you need to remove the portion of the subframe that engages the eyebolts and the tractor's cross shaft (the pickle fork part). This needs to be bent upwards as shown in the picture to increase the lift on the front eyes. Heat the "pickle fork" about 2/3 of the way from the end with a torch and bend it as shown (the keystock is the original "straight" part and is there to demonstrate the bent).

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Installed...

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This tiny little adjustment (along with the rebuild of the pickle fork prongs and build-up of the tractor shaft) changed "no thread left" to "fully adjustable".

Hope this helps explain the fix (Kraig, now you have a pic to post :) )

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Charlie,
That ID you posted is freaky. My Grandfather on my Mother's side is a Lundy and I have a cousin from that side who's name is Donald. He's supposed to be named after a great uncle. Weird.
 

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