Archive through March 24, 2011

[jbaker]

well Arts picture solves the question about the rear PTO being in the way.

Art two of my daughters have claimed my 129 and 149 as theirs.

I really want to find a 169 to claim as mine

 

[mhomrighausen]

Chad M. If I recall Myron B. made an adapter for one of his Cub Cadets. If not Myron then perhaps Paul Bell. I'm running a little late for work so I'll do some research tonight.

Kraig M. Any pics of the Cub Cadet with the Sears mounted three point that you could post for us?

Marty G. I plan on a complete from scratch 3 point for Clarence due to the pto being "in the way". :+)

Kirk L. Angel isn't sure how she hurt her shoulder either. The Doctor told her that there is a LOT of bursitis and tendenitis going around and for reasons that no one can explain. Even trying to get some things ready to ship have been difficult.

See ya all later.

 

[kpeaney]

Marty,yes a model# would be good. Right now, the hood needs refinished completely. I still have to put the brace inside for the lock down, mine was missing. I don't plan a restore for the 108, I just need to get the rusty areas painted. Top of hood was real bad.
KennyP

 

[dfrisk]

TOM H - re: re-tapping to use over-size plug in a Kohler Head.... YES, it works fine. BT-DT. Think it was about 1992 I rebuilt the K301 in my 129. In about 1993 I was "tuning it up" for spring. Pulled the plug and it looked O-K but even with anti-sieze on the threads it pulled the threads out of the head.

I didn't really want to pull the head on a fresh engine, so I ordered spark plug taps from McMaster-Carr, stopped @ Farm & Fleet and got a Champion D9 plug, widely available. The H10C is 7/16" reach 14 MM threads. The D9 is 1/2" reach 18 MM threads. I rolled the engine over so the intake valve was closed, but exh valve open, wrapped a rag around a compressed air blow gun, stuck it in the muffler outlet to blow the shavings out of the engine, greased up a tap drill and the 18 MM tap and cut the new threads. I had to rework the D9 plug with a DREMEL to shorten the center electrode and the very bottom of the threads a bit because the exh. valve would hit the center electrode and close the gap. If your head has the plug located away from the exh. valve you may not have to rework the plug.

The engine ran GREAT for the next TWELVE years that way.

MARTY G. - re :Vredestein frt tires, I haven't shopped those tires much but I think MILLER TIRE could get them, they show a 3.00 X 4 Vredestein, and I know they handle the 16-6.50 X 8 & 18.8.50 X 8 V61's but don't show them on their website.

I have the same P-C pancake compressor, also have the next size bigger Contractor's twin-tank compressor, and the full 7-1/2 HP 2-stg 80 gal verticle tank compressor in the shop rated 25-26 CFM @ 165 PSI. The big one is what I run air tools & spray paint with. My FIRST compressor was maybe ONE CFM @ 80-90 PSI.... on an 8-10 gal. tank and I painted the 129 with that compressor and a syphon spray gun.

I really don't like the oil-less compressors that well, but it's really great being able to carry the compressor around, plug into a houshold outlet and run nail guns, etc. I used to work for the company that owned P-C before it was sold off to Black&Decker and we used to get some CRAZY deals on reconditioned, old slow moving inventory a couple times a year. P-C & Delta tools are REALLY good stuff. P-C has made contractor grade stuff since elec. power service was common, then was sold to ROCKWELL, had a few of those tools too, and really had to try to wear out even the consumer grade stuff, and bought lots of P-C & Delta for several years, lot of cheap air tools that are handy, but I couldn't justify buying a C-P or I-R.

 

[kpeaney]

Dennis, thanks for your input on compressors. I have an old Binks siphon feed and a small finish gun from HF. I didn't think the PC pancake would have enough cfm for either of these.
KennyP

 

[jdiederichs]

An adapter for the Sears 3 point hitch can be simple for the wide frame tractors. The model 1100, having a Peerlesss transaxle did not a hitch point readily available like our Cub Cadets normally do.

The 100 had a back plate with hitch that attached to the side frame members of a wide frame. (It also attached to the axle housings on the Peerless)It can easily be modified to use on a 149, 1200 etc. There should be a few around as most 1100's "went to the great beyond" due to engine issues. There even was a back plate for the 1100/482 that was designed for a sleeve hitch kit! It was an accessory back then. Perhaps someone can find an old illustration.

Since the Sears back plate was slightly angled and the 1100/482 plates are straight up-n-down you need to compensate. I simply welded an angled plate to the 1100 plate and it worked great! No pics, sorry....I used that on a 149 I used to own (sigh!)

 

[dtanner]

Dennis F

I really like the Vredestein tires I installed on my diesel. They were good in the snow for steering and seemed to clear them selves better than I thought they would . I have the tri ribs on my O and like them ,but find they are not very heavy duty.Charlie has a heaver built set on his loader and I bet they steer nice.I have tru power installed on the rims to put on my 125 and I think I paid 217.00 for them. Its shocking the prices that one has to pay for these small garden tractor tires

 

[pbell]

Marlin, Chad,
It wasn't me that made an adapter.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron B. has a Sears CAT-0 3 point on one of his Cubs. Here's some photos of it. Note that he altered the manual lift lever.

Marty, Selah LOVES to roll in the dirt, I don't think he minds the dirt on the Cub.

Marlin, Selah would be honored to be pictured on your wife's website.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dawid, I remembered to take photos of that part. I have a bunch of photos but before I post them all, do you prefer Inches or Metric?

I should mention that this is a reproduction part that was made by Mike Masheris.

 

[dfrisk]

DONALD - What size Vredestein's did you put on the frt of your 1512? 16-6.50X8's?

I think that's the same size Charlie has on his loader tractor but he used Firestone's with that HUGE center rib.

I'd like to stay with North American made tires but that's almost impossible, But with Vredestein making hi-performance car tires and being from The Netherlands, they seem to know what they're doing. They're expensive but I want something that will last as long as the factory installed GY's did.

 

[nbartee]

Didn't get a response, so will repost my question.

In following cubfaq # 94, is it necessary to drain the rear end? Can you not swing the suction tube away but still keep it inside the differential housing? Or will fluid still flow out the top of the tube? Anyone know?

 

[cmize]

Norm, I just recently changed the gasket on my 1650. By utilizing the jack strapped to the rear end, it can tilt slightly backwards and reduce the amount of fluid lost. There will be some fluid lost from the suction tube but I did not lose too much. Once its reassembled, top off the hytran and you should be good to go! FYI choosing NOT to strap the rear end to the jack could be very risky as the rear end is very heavy and can get away from you quickly. Make sure you have a good ratchet strap and it will help you greatly.

Wayne and Jeff, I have a 1650 hydro that does not not have a rear PTO which makes adapting easier.

Kraig, thanks for posting those photos. That was very helpful! Do you think it would be possible instead of having a manual lever that comes up over the fender to somehow adapt it into the hydro lift system?

Chad

 

[dtanner]

Norm Bartee

I don`t think you can swing the suction tube to the side enuf to get the hydro pump off to replace the cork gasket. I would remove it and let the rear end drain from the suction tube hole and just pour it back in when your have replaced the gasket. You can put the hytran back through the check fluid level hole in the rear end cover.

Denis F

My tires are Vredestein's 6 ply 170-60-8 = 16-6.5-8 . I really like them and was shocked that the 6 ply tire would ride so smooth. I think two tires and tubes shipped plus tax came to $117.00 C .

On a side not I just ordered a 4000 rpm governor kit for my 5.9 diesel truck. It will make the truck better for towing as the stock spring only lets the 5.9 fuel to around 2200 rpm and then it just makes noise.With the new spring it will fuel to 4000 rpm`s.they say I makes them pull much stronger lol.With a few adjustments I will have around 400 hp at the rear wheels. That should make it good for towing my 10 k fiver at around 14 mpg. A rebuild tranny next spring to with a warranty for 16K and 5 years towing.I have to get it from the US shipped here $$$. Later Don T

 

[mgonitzke]

Norm-

I think the line is too rigid to swing out of the way. When I've done it, I've either completely removed the tube, or left it attached to the hydro pump and disconnected it from the rearend.

 

[dtanner]

We I found out some more info on the hydro pump today from Wayne .

Notice the two bumps on the back of this basket. One is higher than the other. Since this moves back and forth for forward and reverse ,I`am thinking this is forward speed and reverse controlled by those stops.Can someone tell me if this is correct ?

 

[dfrisk]

DON - That is correct

 

[nbartee]

Thanks guys, that's exactly what I needed to know.

 

[wshytle]

Yep, if it hadn't been for Don and some photos I might be going about 8 mph....backwards!

I wonder if grinding down that lobe a little would simply increase reverse speed. For that matter would grinding down the lower lobe give a faster forward....? It may put too much angle at the bottom of the plungers to ride the plate properly. Marlin?....anyone?

 

[T-Mo]

Kraig, Dawid,
I actually made a drawing for the 3 point lift mounting plate.

http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=651