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Archive through March 22, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Brad...Check under the seat
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A rainy, but mild early spring day gave me the opportunity to put the cubs, and the garage in general into summer mode. At the top of the list was to get the 129 ready for mowing. Off came the snow blower and the tri-ribs, and on went the turf tires and mower deck. I did some maintenance and repair chores, greasing the snow blower and painting the inside with EZ-Slide, and putting it away in the corner until next fall.

While the tractor was undressed I took the opportunity to address a few issues. First was to address some wheel bearing issues on the front wheels going onto the tractor, and replace a worn PTO button. Next was to change the oil and grease the steering linkage, and put the mower deck on. I finished up by fabricating a missing hood hold down fastener on the nose piece, and pumping up the tires. After taking the mower on a test run, I parked it with the rest of summer toys.

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Greg, Allen, Kendall,
Could be the chickens might have left a surprise under the seat instead of on it like they usually do... but it ain't no egg!
Greg,
The noise sounds like a valve but as I posted earlier, I adjusted the valves to no avail.
I am now wondering if the ACR could be the culprit.
 
Gerald Keith: Welcome!
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It does matter (not that much). If it's a 10hp it's a 106 and if it's a 12hp it's a 126.
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Check this out:
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Brand new and shiny decal! These decals are peel and stick, not the soak in water ones like on the models we made as kids. Ask the water I soaked it in! Suppose it will last another 40 years? This is a 123 that I sold last summer to a good friend. At the time it was "my special 123" so I told him I'd sell it for $1,000. He said OK, but he'd like to have lights on it. Now he's got lights AND a new decal. Plus, we both decided that light blue is better than dark blue.
Dennis Frisk, move over -- I need some webspace, here:
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Walked back into the Cubhouse tonight and this was facing me:
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It just reminded of the front axle on the full sized Cub.
Now I'm going to go off-topic. A news article talked about PetsForVets. I Googled it and have decided to become an advocate. I hope some of you will check it out.
 
Stick around, read archives, you'll find IT happens.
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Seriously, it's been posted about before. Even in "the old days" mistakes were made on the assembly line. So which engine do you have??
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Gerald,
Check to see what size engine is in your tractor.
I think a 126 had a 12 hp motor in it, and a 106 had a 10hp.
If you can locate the serial number plate, it will give us clues as to what this tractor was when it came from the factory.
I think the 106 and 126 was the same basic chassis, but different size motors, hence the 106, 126 model numbers.
If you look up at the top of the page, click on the FAQ's there is a link there that will help you there. FAQ's have alot of good info.
It is amazing what some previously owners can do to confuse even the most knowledgeable Tractor guys.
It might even be one of those OOPS! moments at the factory or Dealer. It would be hard to explain.

Also pictures help alot.
Sorry I am not too familiar with the 106,126
Just trying to help
Brad
 
Question- how bad have i possibly damaged motor? I have very fine shaving, almost to the point of not being able to see the shavings, in my oil. I am going to drain and refill the oil. If anyone can help please do, do any of you think i need to replace rod and crank or is it possibly ok.
 
Eric Thomas
have you tried a magnet and see if its steel ? You might have to remove the base and see if the rod has any play on the crank.Might be time to rebuild that K , good luck
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Donald- thanks will chek thsat tomorrow when i drain oil, i will pull pan if magnet picks up metal in oil.
 
Eric:
If it sticks to a magnet or not (iron/steel versus aluminum/bearing material), shavings mean something is being destroyed. As Don says, pull the pan, check the rod journal and rod bearing surfaces first. If it IS ferrous, check your cam/lifter assembly for wear. Keep looking, you'll find something that's not happy with the lack of good lubrication or is just worn out.

Or, just put fresh oil in it and run it 'till it blows up (as it will if it keeps playing machine shop with its innards...).
 
hello all im a bit stumped.I bought a IH rear lift for my 129 but I need the lower bracket,and I forund out there are two diffrent sizes,a wide one and a narrow one. What one do I need to hook up a britly sleave hitch? And is there a manual that shows how to instal the IH lift to the tractor? So i dont screw it up. Thanks
 
Looking for some quietline advice here. A few months ago I purchased a basketcase 1450 with front snow blade, wheel weights, & chains for a good price. I have since put alot of time and money into the tractor in the hopes of installing the rear tiller on it as a permanent fixture. All 4 ISO mounts were shot, so I removed the engine, did the cradle fab, and bought the moog kit to use as uppers with 4 used iso lowers. The engine leaked oil like a sieve, so I purchased a gasket kit. I now have the engine on the bench with the oil pan removed and I'm pondering if putting a fresh set of rings in it. I had the engine running prior to removal and it did slightly smoke. I have since retorqued the head gasket and rebuid the carburator. I do not want to do a complete rebuild at this time. On a previous 1450 I purchased, I put in a new rod/piston/ringset (aftermarket) after lightly honing the bore. I bought a +.010 ringset to use with the standard piston and file fit the rings to the tighter ring clearance listed. That engine runs great now. Looking for advice on what you guys would consider doing with the 1450 that smokes. (leave well enough alone and run 50 weight oil until I can rebuild it properly, put rings in it, or other????)
 
Rob; I would put new piston, rod, rings, check cam end play, decarbon head and check for warpage, new gaskets, seals, points, and carb kit. If it has balance gears they could go in the trash can.
Luther
 
Luther,

Engine did not have balance gears or even holes in the block where the stub shafts originally went. The block on this engine has a dipstick tube that bolts into the side of the block. The other K321 seemed to have a dipstick tube that went directly vertically into the block. Any reason on why they would be different?
 

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