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Archive through March 04, 2009
- Thread starter jfsirois
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Steve That freshly painted shaft was the original that a skilled machinist welded a new u joint(max. rpm900) to.It was scraped after the first 2minute run melted the steel joint and lite the grease afire.Point well taken though lining up the ears of the yokes can get overlooked in the heat of the moment,or middle of a snow storm. John Does anyone know off hand what the stock shaft speed is? 2000-3000? john
steve by the way, really good eye. That was a failed 2006 repair. I always chalked that up to a under sized bearingless u joint, but that slip join is rectangular to prevent rotating out of phase,unless it's welded that way.too bad I wrote that shop off already!!John
I have a 147 that blows some smoke when I first start it.
I decided to pull the head yesterday and noticed that there was some oil around the head gasket, and some slight scoring on the piston wall. I didn't have a mic. to check the diametor but it dosen't look to be ovaled out, just a slight ring of carbon build up around the top. I sprayed te valves with penetrating oil and blew air through the intake and exhaust ports, air came out from around both valves, after I did that I rememberd that I had ran it before I took the head off but had tried to restart it but the battery was to weak, I rememberd reading that there is an automatic presure releif built in and was thinking maybe this added to the blow by onthe vaules but Im sure with it being a 30 year old motor they probaly need redone anyways. I've never messed with small motors before but have torn into a few chevy, and mopars. From reading the posts some guys say they are not too hard to do. I was thinking of buying a rebuild kit and doing it myself, I would have the machine work done at a shop. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I want to start on this asap, the weather is breaking and I picked up a plow, disk and roto tiller I want to try out soon since the weather is starting to break.
Thanks Jeff
I decided to pull the head yesterday and noticed that there was some oil around the head gasket, and some slight scoring on the piston wall. I didn't have a mic. to check the diametor but it dosen't look to be ovaled out, just a slight ring of carbon build up around the top. I sprayed te valves with penetrating oil and blew air through the intake and exhaust ports, air came out from around both valves, after I did that I rememberd that I had ran it before I took the head off but had tried to restart it but the battery was to weak, I rememberd reading that there is an automatic presure releif built in and was thinking maybe this added to the blow by onthe vaules but Im sure with it being a 30 year old motor they probaly need redone anyways. I've never messed with small motors before but have torn into a few chevy, and mopars. From reading the posts some guys say they are not too hard to do. I was thinking of buying a rebuild kit and doing it myself, I would have the machine work done at a shop. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I want to start on this asap, the weather is breaking and I picked up a plow, disk and roto tiller I want to try out soon since the weather is starting to break.
Thanks Jeff
TODD H. - I remember a couple talks with My Dad just like You described. Same last comment too!
JOHN S. - Gets a little hard to determine exact RPM the the snow blower driveshaft runs because the PTO clutch pulley is kinda an odd size, about 4-1/4" as I normally measure them. But with OEM pulleys they run 2400-2500 rpm.
I've seen a lot of U-joint failures, Guess I've been around 4X4 pickups & over-worked under-maintained medium & H-D trucks too long, but I've never seen one catch the grease on fire. Township Road Commissioner I worked for summers during college had the rear u-joint on a Chevy C-65 dump truck wear all the way thru the bearing cups and almost thru the yoke on the rear axle one time. Got to be a VERY expensive repair before it was road-worthy again. It only squeeked or "Chirped" for a week.
Anyhow, a greaseable high RPM cross & bearing is required for the snow blower driveshaft.
JOHN S. - Gets a little hard to determine exact RPM the the snow blower driveshaft runs because the PTO clutch pulley is kinda an odd size, about 4-1/4" as I normally measure them. But with OEM pulleys they run 2400-2500 rpm.
I've seen a lot of U-joint failures, Guess I've been around 4X4 pickups & over-worked under-maintained medium & H-D trucks too long, but I've never seen one catch the grease on fire. Township Road Commissioner I worked for summers during college had the rear u-joint on a Chevy C-65 dump truck wear all the way thru the bearing cups and almost thru the yoke on the rear axle one time. Got to be a VERY expensive repair before it was road-worthy again. It only squeeked or "Chirped" for a week.
Anyhow, a greaseable high RPM cross & bearing is required for the snow blower driveshaft.
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- Brian Branstetter
Any thoughts on how deep to cut the notches in my coulter blade for my brinly plow?
I was thinking about an 1 1/2 to 2 inches what are you guys using?
Thanks
Brian
Thanks
Brian
Brian, do a keyword search of the forum, use the two words: notched coulter, also select "and" instead of the default "or" from the search keyword options.
I know this question maybe should not be here but I will try I need a new seat for my 100 and awile back somebody said visit a sponcer just wondering wich one would be better to get a seat from or any other ideas how to get one thanks want close to oem as possible
Douglas, if I were you, I'd post a want add for a 100 pan seat in the forum classifieds. If that doesn't pan out, no pun intended, give Scott a call at Madson's Service. Might also want to contact Chris Westfall, he had an Original chassis for sale that he might be parting out, looked like it had a decent pan seat on it. His post was back on Feb. 25th, click on the link and scroll down.
Brendan, yes Charlie had a page with photos and IDs of various wheel weight styles. I couldn't find it either.
Charlie? what did you do with the wheel weight ID page?
Charlie? what did you do with the wheel weight ID page?
These just in from Denny.
Todd,
The Stern Lecture part also came with mandatory participation in the repair as well, and he made sure you knew exactly how much the parts cost. Whether it was a broken steering box, replacement of a seized piston, complete with boring out the engine with a cylinder hone, or replacing a spindle assembly in the mower deck, us boys got a thorough lesson in the particular repair procedure. We did the wrenching under Dad's supervision while listening to him go on about how this is what happens if you don't check your oil or grease your spindles, or run the thing wide open on a 96 degree day. He knew (and still knows) his stuff too, he was a diesel mechanic by trade that worked his way off the shop floor and into management.
Growing up it was futile to even try putting anything anything over on him, all you could do was nod your head and take your medicine.
The Stern Lecture part also came with mandatory participation in the repair as well, and he made sure you knew exactly how much the parts cost. Whether it was a broken steering box, replacement of a seized piston, complete with boring out the engine with a cylinder hone, or replacing a spindle assembly in the mower deck, us boys got a thorough lesson in the particular repair procedure. We did the wrenching under Dad's supervision while listening to him go on about how this is what happens if you don't check your oil or grease your spindles, or run the thing wide open on a 96 degree day. He knew (and still knows) his stuff too, he was a diesel mechanic by trade that worked his way off the shop floor and into management.
Growing up it was futile to even try putting anything anything over on him, all you could do was nod your head and take your medicine.
Bruce, "....or run the thing wide open on a 96 degree day." ummm, I thought with air cooled small engines they run their coolest when under full throttle? Higher RPM = more airflow from the flywheel "blower".
I know we've had the "full throttle" discussion before. Here's a "link to one"
Ryan, regarding your Feb 26th post, "( remember the first JD Spring Tillage day with "field marshalls" carrying depth rods )". You mean Mike H. with his depth measuring stick? FWIW, that was actually at the second JD Spring Tillage day....
To be correct, I guess I can say "maximum governed speed", but in any event Dad generally thought that us boys tended to run the thing too hard. We would crank her all the way up to full speed and dive into a patch of heavy grass at full speed in 2nd gear and run until it bogged down rather than downshift and take progressively lower cuts.
On the other hand, while disassembling the engine after it seized (on a 96 degree day) I remember him pointing out the accumulated chaff under the tins around the cylinder head and fins. I remember him grousing about how the design of the tins led to the accumulation of debris that then blocked the airflow. Of course he also pointed out that there was hardly any oil in the crankcase either, so I wasn't exactly let off with a warning.
Kohler engine parts were pretty expensive, perhaps even more so accounting for inflation than today, and by the time we were done we had gaskets, a new piston and rod, and a new crankshaft in that baby. I would have been mad too!!
On the other hand, while disassembling the engine after it seized (on a 96 degree day) I remember him pointing out the accumulated chaff under the tins around the cylinder head and fins. I remember him grousing about how the design of the tins led to the accumulation of debris that then blocked the airflow. Of course he also pointed out that there was hardly any oil in the crankcase either, so I wasn't exactly let off with a warning.
Kohler engine parts were pretty expensive, perhaps even more so accounting for inflation than today, and by the time we were done we had gaskets, a new piston and rod, and a new crankshaft in that baby. I would have been mad too!!
