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Archive through June 29, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Jeff D good thinking, you should take measurements and post a how to make in the Machine shop topic.

I want to make one
 
Gary, I'm using a pocket size Sony Cybershot 6.0 megapixel DSC-W50. It has a macro function, the camera was a foot away, and I zoomed in for the photo. I've also got a full size 3 meg Nikon CoolPix 995 which I haven't used in years. By the time I figured out some of the Nikon's features, it was pretty much obsolete. And for the money I spent on the Nikon I could have bought another Cub Cadet.

I shouldn't feel too bad, my wife has 'wasted' far more money on the horse she boards. I think that's why she doesn't say a word when I mention that I might get another CC.
 
Harry, as for paint,Here is my 169 I should have finished for the 4th of July. I painted it with Cub Cadet Enamel, used DuPont Centari mid temp reducer,And Wet Look Hardener. I will be putting the seat on tomorrow..

193082.jpg
 
Harry,
You can get the DT-2234C+ Digital Tachometer on eBay from seller 'keyhere'. Or search for 'Digital Laser Photo Tachometer Non Contact'. Mine arrived a few days ago, and it cost about $12 with shipping from China.
 
Thanks Harry, the outside one came out with no problem, the inside one is still in there. It kicked my a>>/. I gave up for the night and poured myself a beer. Nick
 
Hydro Harry,
Yes I did rotate ( loosen ) the ecentric lock before I pulled the bearing off.

Jeff B,
I'll get measurement tomorrow from the puller and post them up.
 
Got half the inside roll pin out...one smashed bleeding thumb and one stuck punch...its like its been in there since 1971 or something.
 
It's a great battery. I'm putting jumpers from posts on light to posts on battery.

Light does not come on. I know I'm missing something but what?
 
Harry B,

Sorry to take so long to answer your question. My 1250 gets its oil changed once a year, in the spring. This tractor logs between 30-40 hours per year and is used year round. The engine gets a steady diet of Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic with MMO mixed in the gasoline per the ratio recommended on the bottle. Engine uses hardly any oil between changes.

I find it interesting how the synthetic looks upon changing - a slightly darkened, amber color, versus black for mineral oil. Lubrication experts have told me that when oil darkens, its mostly from oxidation (oil chemically reacting with oxygen) and not from carbon, like lots of folks think.

Changing oil removes combustion by-products that build up and contaminate it, water that forms from condensation (especially in cold weather use), and stray metal that collects from even the most carefully assembled and blue-printed engine. I know of no oil additives that can perform a chemical elimination of these contaminants...only physically draining and replenishing can do this.
 
Bob P. Some wires just love to break inside the insulation, will drive you nuts!. Check your jumpers by VERY QUICKLY by shorting them together.<font size="-2">(Rapidly brush to two ends together)</font> No spark?= bad jumper. You could also try a regular car light bulb to confirm quality of wires/connections/headlight.
 

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