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Archive through June 29, 2010
- Thread starter dtanner
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
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- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Lucas...a Piper Cub is a smaller version of this ----->
Saturday while mowing I noticed that my PTO seemed to be slipping. I had rebuilt the PTO in late 2008 when I swapped out the old K301 with Killer, the K301 that David Kirk rebuilt for me. Here's what I found upon inspection:
Note that one of the ends of the triangle spring has broken off. That spring is not even two years old.
I guess I'm going to have to swap some parts from some other PTOs that I have around here.
Note that one of the ends of the triangle spring has broken off. That spring is not even two years old.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
The nose button a little rough, too? I need to take mine apart and clean that button up, it seems to take the brass release button out in about three years...OBTW - release arm not centered??
Allen: It flew right by 'em...
Allen: It flew right by 'em...
jhillegass
Well-known member
Kraig,
Seems like the spring should have lasted longer.
I just noticed that the spring toes are turned away from the PTO. Are they to be turned in toward the PTO? Would it make a difference?
Just wondering.......
Seems like the spring should have lasted longer.
I just noticed that the spring toes are turned away from the PTO. Are they to be turned in toward the PTO? Would it make a difference?
Just wondering.......
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Kraig-
I know those 125's are "PERFECTION" but W-I-D-E-F-R-A-M-E-S don't have that problem as most of them have an electric PTO.
I'm just sayin'...
I know those 125's are "PERFECTION" but W-I-D-E-F-R-A-M-E-S don't have that problem as most of them have an electric PTO.
I'm just sayin'...
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
I also noticed that your brass buttn is not centered and well I`am wondering if the side stress would cause that spring to break.Is there not a hole in the spring to keep things aligned so the tension is even ? just asking
I also noticed that your brass buttn is not centered and well I`am wondering if the side stress would cause that spring to break.Is there not a hole in the spring to keep things aligned so the tension is even ? just asking
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Piper Cub...
It has two seats, Don, and most of Gerry's gauges would not appear in a Piper Cub.
It has two seats, Don, and most of Gerry's gauges would not appear in a Piper Cub.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Don:
That's the "smoker" 149 I bought a couple of years ago... I want to rebuild the K321, but too many other projects ( I DID rebuild the S/G this summer). I'll post some pics of the PO mods when I get some time( for instance, it had some truck brake rotors bolted to the back for weight..). The "Piper Cub" gauges courtesy of Google..
Matt: I couldn't find a "satisfactory" picture of a PC's IP...
That's the "smoker" 149 I bought a couple of years ago... I want to rebuild the K321, but too many other projects ( I DID rebuild the S/G this summer). I'll post some pics of the PO mods when I get some time( for instance, it had some truck brake rotors bolted to the back for weight..). The "Piper Cub" gauges courtesy of Google..
Matt: I couldn't find a "satisfactory" picture of a PC's IP...
Roy,
Pertaining to the hydro fan clip. Having just recently completed the same task of replacing a hydro fan with no blades, the circlip I got from the dealer seems much more robust than the one you show. It was difficult to open. In fact, it snapped one of the pins in my retaining pliers. Use right angle pins if you have them, it makes installation much easier.
Pertaining to the hydro fan clip. Having just recently completed the same task of replacing a hydro fan with no blades, the circlip I got from the dealer seems much more robust than the one you show. It was difficult to open. In fact, it snapped one of the pins in my retaining pliers. Use right angle pins if you have them, it makes installation much easier.
Headlights!
I checked a light with an ohm meter. Red to one side black to the other. It has the same result as if I touch the two meter prongs together. No or very little resistance. I assume (I know, I know) that means the light is good, element is not burned. I ran some jumpers from battery to light and nothing. What am I doing wrong?
I checked a light with an ohm meter. Red to one side black to the other. It has the same result as if I touch the two meter prongs together. No or very little resistance. I assume (I know, I know) that means the light is good, element is not burned. I ran some jumpers from battery to light and nothing. What am I doing wrong?
A (most anyway) Piper Cub is yellow too, almost Cub Cadet yellow. Somewhere I have an OLD training manual (smallish pamphlet) for a Piper Cub that was my fathers. I believe it was printed in the 1950's. I should probably scan that...
Jerry, the triangle spring is installed correctly with the "toes" pointing towards the PTO, must be an optical illusion that you are seeing them the other way.
Yes I know that the lever has slid off to one side, we've discussed that here before. I need to install some clips on the rod to hold it centered. Yes, I've been procrastinating on that.
Don, I believe it is a coincidence that the broken tab is on the side that broke, might be why it stopped on that side however. I noticed the PTO slipping but kept mowing for several hours anyway.
Gerry, that was a new center button and brass button in 2008 as well.
Art,
Jerry, the triangle spring is installed correctly with the "toes" pointing towards the PTO, must be an optical illusion that you are seeing them the other way.
Yes I know that the lever has slid off to one side, we've discussed that here before. I need to install some clips on the rod to hold it centered. Yes, I've been procrastinating on that.
Don, I believe it is a coincidence that the broken tab is on the side that broke, might be why it stopped on that side however. I noticed the PTO slipping but kept mowing for several hours anyway.
Gerry, that was a new center button and brass button in 2008 as well.
Art,
Hello all,
Well I picked up my "new-to-me" Oct '80 built 782 last Sunday. Thanks to everybody for your opinions and suggestions. Cosmetically it looks pretty nice, but mechanically it has issues.
As it sits, its dripping gas from beneath the carb near the intake manifold. It also won't start unless I remove the air cleaner. It'll crank, but I have to have the air cleaner completely off for it to start. Then it'll smoke for about a minute, clear up, run a little longer, then die. Im thinking a carb issue as it acts as if its flooded. Im a car guy, but garden tractors are new to me. Any ideas? As always, thanks for the help!!
Allen
Well I picked up my "new-to-me" Oct '80 built 782 last Sunday. Thanks to everybody for your opinions and suggestions. Cosmetically it looks pretty nice, but mechanically it has issues.
As it sits, its dripping gas from beneath the carb near the intake manifold. It also won't start unless I remove the air cleaner. It'll crank, but I have to have the air cleaner completely off for it to start. Then it'll smoke for about a minute, clear up, run a little longer, then die. Im thinking a carb issue as it acts as if its flooded. Im a car guy, but garden tractors are new to me. Any ideas? As always, thanks for the help!!
Allen
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Allen-
Before you run it again, check the oil...if there's gas running out of the carb, there's gas running into the manifold, into the cylinders, and then into the crankcase. You need to rebuild the carb. Do not run it like this anymore...oil diluted with gas isn't a good thing.
Before you run it again, check the oil...if there's gas running out of the carb, there's gas running into the manifold, into the cylinders, and then into the crankcase. You need to rebuild the carb. Do not run it like this anymore...oil diluted with gas isn't a good thing.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Allen, might be time for a quick take 'em apart on the carb. sounds like the float is stuck down, maybe varnished to the bowl? You might be getting so much gas into it that the plug is fouling. Get that squared away, and work from there. A.
glippert
Well-known member
I'm going to run out of excused for not adjusting the engine speed of my 1250. Upon the recommendation of Donald T, I picked up one of these Digital Photo Tach's. Now, despite being (mostly) mechanically inept, I guess I'll give her a shot. You all make it sound pretty easy. (Except for Kraig a year or so ago, with linkage adjustments, etc!) I'll let you know how it goes.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Gerry - glad you like the P-I-P-E-R
Kraig Mc - on the "no drain" Hydro, IH left it off the re-cast rear for "what" reason??? Cost??? As I noted, it seemed to me the Hydro really should have the drain plug. How much would it have cost??? Would they have saved money by removing it from the manual casting???
And on your "button, button, whose got the button", I'm a little suspicious you had to much pressure on the button. An "original equipment" fiber button would have probably worn thru before causing the spring to break, but since you went the brass route AND had the procrastinating offset, oh well, live and learn?
Charile - where are you on the oil changes???
Greg L (under edit) - it is quite easy if the cable is adjusted correctly to begin with so you are able to use the high speed screw stop, that is tacked on the side of the shroud, which will give you a fixed max setting.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when using original IH parts)
Kraig Mc - on the "no drain" Hydro, IH left it off the re-cast rear for "what" reason??? Cost??? As I noted, it seemed to me the Hydro really should have the drain plug. How much would it have cost??? Would they have saved money by removing it from the manual casting???
And on your "button, button, whose got the button", I'm a little suspicious you had to much pressure on the button. An "original equipment" fiber button would have probably worn thru before causing the spring to break, but since you went the brass route AND had the procrastinating offset, oh well, live and learn?
Charile - where are you on the oil changes???
Greg L (under edit) - it is quite easy if the cable is adjusted correctly to begin with so you are able to use the high speed screw stop, that is tacked on the side of the shroud, which will give you a fixed max setting.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when using original IH parts)
