Archive through June 26, 2015

[jpatchett]

Clark,

I would be looking closer at the points and see if they are functioning correctly and double check the gap. The tractor has a brief spark when you open and close the ignition switch. This is what the points should do, but I don't thing they are. Can you determine when the spark occurs, key going on or key going off?

Jim

 

[elamott]

I am back regarding my 129 issue.
My question now is. Are the valve tappets adjustable? I purchased new valves and they are short to bring the valves into specs.I rebuilt the engine in 09 but I have forgotten the steps that I did. Forgive me I am old so don't laugh.
Any comments appreciated.
Earl

 

[cmiracle]

Jim- the spark occurs when the key is turned off.

Ken- Tomorrow I'll do the timing, and check the points electrically.

Thanks for all the ideas so far! I'll keep yall updated, this site is a great resource as always!

 

[jchamberlin]

Clark: If I'm following the implications of Mr. Patchett's question correctly, the spark is occurring when the key switch is in the ignition position while the motor is still turning; but when the key is in the start position, you're not getting a spark.

The difference between the key in the Ignition position and the Start position is that in the Start position, current has to pass through the safety switch before it gets to the solenoid. If you're reading 12 volts at the coil with the key in the Ignition position, that doesn't mean it's still there when the key is in the Start position.

Like Kendal Harvey said, you need to check your voltage at the coil while cranking.

For Reference:

In fact, after checking the schematic, I'm afraid I don't understand how the coil gets 12 volts while cranking. If the key switch only connects terminals "B" and "S" when it is in the Start position, I don't see how the coil can ever get 12 volts while cranking. Either the diagram is wrong, or I don't really understand how the start circuit works.

Either way, I would be Ohming out the key switch.

 

[lhinds]

Clark if the points do not ground the coil terminal it cannot create spark for the plug to fire. I solved the problem on my 124 by making sure the points were grounding when closed. 11.6 volts sounds low to me at the coil. You should have whatever is across the battery terminals at the coil if all connections are good. Have you tried a jumper from the + battery post directly to the coil and a jumper from the - battery post to the condenser ground? Hope some of this makes sense.

 

[jpatchett]

Earl,

Yes the valve lifters are adjustable. See the Kohler K series manual for specs and adjustment procedure.

Jim

 

[mgonitzke]

Clark/Jeremiah-

I'm not awake yet, but I'm starting to think there is an error in the table for the ignition switch positions. I am 99% sure 'start' is B+I+S based on testing many ignition switches in my day. If not, there is no ignition in the 'start' position, and the engine would only be able to start while coasting down with the switch in the 'on' position. I've had several switches fail like that.

If you are careful they can be taken apart, cleaned back up, and put back together. The problem usually is that some of the grease that lubes the mechanism inside has gotten on the contacts.

 

[jpatchett]

Jeremiah,

The schematic is correct for the most part, just does not show the exact/detailed contact setup of the switch. When the key is in the start position there is still a closed circuit for the ignition.

Clark,

The spark occurring when the key is turned off tells us that the ignition circuit is somewhat operational, i.e. good coil and condenser. Turning off the key (opening contacts in the switch) is the same as opening the contacts on the points. The points are not performing as they should, why?

If the points are used/old clean contacts with a small CLEAN file. Slip the file between the contacts and move back and forth several times. Would not hurt to do on new points, just a few strokes.

With the key in the run position and the points in the closed position open the points with a non-metallic, non-conductive object, like a dry popsicle stick or such. You could tape up a screw driver with electrical tape. Gently pry on the plastic arm of the breaker point assembly. There should be a faint spark created when the gap gets large enough and then at spark at the plug, it will appear simultaneously. This will be hard to see in a well light garage or outdoors in the daytime.

If there is spark at the plug, then gap adjustment is likely the problem.

If there is NO spark, breaker point assembly is defective or grounding elsewhere.

Or the switch like Matt stated.

Jim

 

[sblunier]

Jumper 12v direct from battery to coil and try it, if it's in the tractor wiring you will find out real quick...... remove jumper to shut off.. .

 

[mconway]

the 42 is coming along....couple more pieces and hopefully she'll be cutting like the beast she is.... guards and blades now but we got a bunch of rain coming so no mowing today...thanx for comments and a huge thanx to ccs for helping me "git 'er done...."

 

[cmiracle]

Okay, now I want to check that I'm doing things correctly. Where are the best places to check the coil voltage, the terminal and? Also, where can I find Matt g's static timing method? Couldn't find it with a search...

 

[cmiracle]

I also cleaned up, reinstalled and gapped the original points. No change still

 

[aschumacher]

Clark, the other end of the test setup is a shiny piece of tractor frame or if you have enough test wire battery negative.
Matts site is www.mgonitzke.net click on image of a tractor.

 

[jpatchett]

Clark,

I'm thinking the points are not closing when they should and therefore the EMF doesn't get induced to energize the secondary coil windings and create spark at the plug. The EMF is occurring in the coil when the ignition circuit is opened by the key switch. The slightest gap between the points when they should be closed will keep the ignition from working.

Disconnect the points from the coil/condenser. Place and ohm meter across the points when they are in the closed position the resistance should be zero. Any value more than this is a problem.

Matts static timing procedure also checks this.

Jim

 

[cmiracle]

I got spark! Now I kinda feel silly, after studying matt's instructions I noticed that I had the points wire hooked up to the adjustment screw instead of where it was supposed to be, therefore completely bypassing the points. odd thing is that that was where it was hooked up when I got the tractor...

It's sparking strong so I got it put back together and I'm trying to start it now.

 

[cmiracle]

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

[kide]

24 hours??

 

[jbaker]

and 14 minutes

 

[dtanner]

 

[kmcconaughey]