Archive through June 13, 2005

[lherrmann]

Kraig - The old VR does have the braided wire and the new one is pictured on the CC Specialties web site and it appears to have the braid as well. I'll try connecting the ground to the 4th post and see what happens. I learned the +/- connect/disconnect order the hard way with a wrench.

Could I have fried anything else besides the VR when I hooked up the gray & yellow wires wrong on the old VR? Maybe I don't have all the connections clean enough?

I would think that if everything is connected properly and the ignition is off then there would be no spark because the ignition switch would be keeping the circuit open. Right?

 

[jegstad]

Lisa,

There is a simple way to troubleshoot short circuits without burning things up or harming any component on your tractor.

1 - Presumming yours is a negative ground system, start with the battery ground cable (-) disconnected from the battery and the hot cable (+) connected to the battery.

2 - Connect a VOLTMETER in SERIES from the battery ground cable to the negative (-) side of the battery. The negative test lead of the voltmeter goes to the battery ground cable and the positive test lead of the voltmeter goes to the battery negative terminal. NOTE that this is not how you would normally hook up a voltmeter to test a voltage (you normally hook the meter across the source of the voltage).

What you now have is the meter hooked as a microammeter and it will indicate a voltage if any current is being drawn by a short or a partial short. You can troubleshoot the short in perfect safety to all components because of the way the meter is hooked - it will limit any current being drawn to microamps (millionths of an amp) so nothing will burn up, start up, light up, etc.

So now, if you have a short or partial short, the meter will read battery voltage (12 to 14 volts normally) when all switches are off (I can't think of any Cub component that would cause a current drain when all switches are off).

Using your schematic/wiring diagram as a guide, start disconnecting and tagging wires (leave each one disconnected as you go) until you disconnect the one that makes the voltmeter reading drop to zero.

To make sure that there is the only short/load now reconnect the other wires you disconnected. If the voltmeter reading jumps back up for any of those disconnect that one again. Continue this until the only wires you have disconnected will cause the meter to go back up if they are connected.

Now trace the wire(s) down that cause the meter to jump back up to isolate the short or defective part. You may need to turn the key or light switches on or off to continue tracing. Some paths will naturally cause a load when you turn on a switch so you need to trace these down to eliminate normal current drains as possiblities.

Confused yet? Good Luck.

JimE

 

[lherrmann]

Jim- I think that makes sense to me. I'll give it a try. Thanks.

 

[rbedell]

Lisa H:

I have been following your posts. There is something that jumped out at me and I thought I would address it. You stated, that your present Voltage Regulator has 4 terminals on it. The original V/R for the 106 is #IH-545130-R93. It has three terminals on it. Cub used a 4 terminal V/R on the 70/100. The two types of V/R are NOT interchangeable. I have attached a diagram for your reference. The 1x6/7 has the terminal designation with the proper color of wires to each terminal.

If you have the wrong V/R, then you will have to obtain the correct one. Using a 4 wire V/R can and may cause a short.

I hope this helps and clarifies this issue for you.

 

[sblunier]

Roland,

Either one will work fine as long as it is wired correctly. Wiring must be by "function" not by pin location, and V/R's by different manufacturers may have pins that are placed in different locations.

The CC Specialities V/R should work just fine for her.

Lisa,

Do not ground the 4th terminal, it is typically "hot" and a Roland mentioned will cause a direct short. Make sure that the F, B, and G stampings on your new V/R coordinate to the colors in the diagram, don't go by the order or position of the wires compared to the old V/R, color code wires to the stamped function F, B, or G.

(Message edited by sblunier on June 13, 2005)

(Message edited by sblunier on June 13, 2005)

 

[mwheeler]

Well, I finally did it. I bought a '69 Model 73 tractor with a 38" deck in great shape this afternoon. The machine runs and drives great! The tinwork is straight but it has been painted in that faint red primer stuff and all the tractor decals will have to be replaced upon the arrival of a paint job. The choke cable just has to be bolted down to the engine shroud and it needs a clutch shroud. Just needs paint and some minor detail work.

I figure I can get this one apart, painted, and reassembled before my break is over in August.

I'll see if I can get some pics tomorrow.

 

[sblunier]

I got a little help moving the 100 around before the show this past weekend.....

(with the creeper in Low range he can drive with me "just out of the picture"

)

 

[lbuttke]

I have been told that the 4 post V/R will work in place of the 3 post V/R by my local NAPA man, the post marked with the L is for tractors with lights, it is suppose to increase the out put of the V/R when the lights are on.
I have one on my 102 and ran a wire from the L post ti the dash switch and back to the lights, seems to be working just fine. I still get 13.50 volts comming to the battery with the engine running and the light on.

 

[mark]

HI everyone

This seems to be a very helpful website!!
I have a 1250 with a 301 kohler that I just rebuilt. Does anyone know how the governor works on this motor. I currently have the motor assembled and running and the governor does not seem to be doing anything.

Thank you for your help

 

[bmcmeen]

Calvin -

Check out the FAQ at the link above. There is an entry regarding manuals and such, which will point you to where you can download the appropriate Kohler manual (from Kohler for FREE).

 

[sheckert]

I just aquired a Cub 125 and was curious if anyone in the forum had or been involved putting a small front end loader on their cub. I have been looking at the unit that is on the cadplans website, however I am concerned with only one arm supporting the bucket. I like the johnson workhorse, but can not find any for sale without the tractor. Looking for advice. Also wondering about the HYD side of it. The 125 I have does have the HYD unit option for deck height. I was thinking of utilizing that pulley for a higher volume pump. Thank You

 

[sblunier]

Scott,

Contact Nate Fisher, he has a nice loader design for Cub Cadets and several forum members have completed loaders from his plans. Pretty sure the website is P.F. Engineering.

...he also makes a slick little backhoe!!!

 

[digger]

Scott Heckert,
CLICK HERE for Nates website.

(Message edited by cproctor on June 14, 2005)

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie -

Whoa! Saw the name and initial and thought I was having a bad acid flashback

 

[digger]

Heard that,
I dint think till after, but I fixed it. Scary thought ain't it, ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!

 

[kgilbertson]

Hi, I am hoping someone can give me information on two things about a cub cadet 782 Diesel lawn mower first about a new wiring harness the other one was shot so replaced but their is one white wire on the new one and do not know where it goes not sure if it is a ground or not and the other is a question about the battery as to which size it is, have not used the battery from cub cadet because of bad wiring so need OEM part number to order from a battery store hopefully but there books do not show for a 782 Diesel any help is greatly appreciated

 

[lherrmann]

Won't get back to the 106 wiring until Thursday.

Roland/Steve/Kraig- thanks for the diagrams and explanations. I WILL check the VR tab labels again before I do anything else.

Lonny- I don't have lights so should I leave that L tab empty?

Jim- If all else fails I think I have a good grasp of your troubleshooting shorts. Can I use my Multimeter as the voltmeter or would there be a chance of overload?

Until then...

Is it possible to rebuild a voltage regulator after I switched the B & F wires? There doesn't seem to be anything burnt or broken inside the one I took off. It seems a shame to just pitch it if I can fix it and use it as a backup.

 

[digger]

Ken G,
Since you didn't say where the white wire was, I sent you a diagram that might help you out.
On the battery, get the biggest CCA battery that will fit in the hole. ;-P

 

[sheckert]

Tahnks for the information, checked out the site and have only one more question to bother you with. For anyone who has made a front bucket for the cub, how many hours could I expect to put into a project like this and does the bucket come off easy enough for mowing and snow removal? Thank You

 

[lherrmann]

Scott,

The website http://www.loaderplans.com/ FAQs at the bottom of the page address the time, tools and $$ required to build the loader.