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Archive through June 09, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Chuck F:

Here is a diagram on the difference between the two types of F Bolts. The NF bolt is actually a "shoulder bolt" that is used on the frame rail for the QA implement. The WF Bolts are the true Frankenstein that are used for the upper casting for the 3 Pt. On the diagram, if you notice where the threads are, this should clear this up more so than just the age. - LOL
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(Message edited by rbedell on June 09, 2005)
 
newbie here...just picked up a 68' model 104 with a 42 inch mower deck for $150.00 bucks. it mows great now that ive replaced the blades, belts and a couple pulleys. I need to get info on clutch set-up, as in, it seems to always "grind em" instead of "find em" like the clutch needs to be "tightend up". need to know how to do this. I see what I think is the nut for doing this but need to know which direction to spin it. also the forward, small spring is broke on the clutch shaft. i have a replacement, just need the info for changing it. the crankcase breather huffs quite alot of oil smoke too. what is a good corrective action their? thaks to all the gurus out there. anyone have a manual?
 
Timothy R. -

Welcome.

Please read the FAQ listed above (that's why we ask you to read it up there
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) - you'll find what type and where to find manuals.

Most of us do have manuals. And we bought 'em fair 'n' square
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If one was to look as Frankenstiens neck bolts, one would see that the ones marked NF bolt in
Roland B's post would truly be a Frankenstien bolt.
After all is this not where the name for the bolt came from
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(Message edited by lbuttke on June 09, 2005)
 
Kraig,

The 107 was given to me a couple years ago by a family that were the original purchasers. I'll take a picture and post...wait, I might have one.
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It's me and the grandson, who loves riding on this tractor. It runs fairly well, but the flywheel grass screen was packed solid when I got it so it's been overheated. The Kohler runs fine but blows blue out the exhaust and breather, the result of running too hot. Will have to freshen it up one of these years.
 
Hello all,

I just wanted to say how much I enjoy reading the forum every couple of days. I have posted in the past but not often or much. Guess I do not have much to say. You can put a temporary location pin on the map for a cub-lover in Iraq.
28583.jpg

Unfortunately, I could not fit the 100 in my duffle, but the mug made it over with me!
 
well, I'll try one more time on this one.... how does one adjust the clutch to grab more? 1968 cub 104. thanks.
 
Timothy>
Turn in the nut on the linkage rod to adjust the clutch, this will give you a little more clearence between the preasure plates and the clutch plate. Check to make sure the drive shaft is not moveing when the clutch is depressed, I have this happenong on one of my cubs and the only way I can keep it from turning is to spray some wd-40 on the end of the drive shaft where it meets the engine.
To replace the broken teaser spring you will need to remove the motor and disasemble the clutch, do not remove the drive shaft from the tractor unless you realy need to, for this helps to aid in the disasembly of the clutch. please refer to FAQ # 18 for instructions on who to remove the clutch.
 
Timothy R,
WELL!
I guess if you had done what Bryan suggested and read the FAQ page & the rules page, you would have found what Lonny told you about in question 18, as well as this!
CLICK HERE

Which gives you detailed instructions on how to work on, remove, installtion and adjust a mechanical clutch and even the brakes!!!!!



(Message edited by cproctor on June 10, 2005)
 
Timothy R.

You can't "adjust" a Cub cadet clutch to "grab" more. The only adjustment you have pertains to when it releases/engages on the pedal travel range. The clutch's "grabbing" power is a function of the condition of it's components (pressure plates, friction disk, main spring, etc.) If it's slipping now, no amount of "adjustment" will keep it from slipping, only the repair/reconditioning/replacement of parts will fix that.

There are several pulling specific sites that directly address the Cub Cadet clutch and all of it's quirks.

Lightly polish and lubricate the pilot bushing and the end of the driveshaft when you pull the motor, as stated before, it will help with the smooth disengagement. Also, carefully align the engine in it's mounting holes to help prevent twisting that may increase "freespin".

(Message edited by sblunier on June 10, 2005)
 
Don D., Great photo!! Be careful over there, and THANK YOU!
 
Don D. -

That's a shame, I'd like to see a Cub Cadet in desert tan
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Charlie -

Nice FAQ entry. I especially like the smudges and greasy fingerprints. A clean manual is as suspect as a clean cookbook
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Don, Good Luck over there.

On Clutches, does anybody know what the friction disk(driving disk) is made out of? Anybody had bad experience with drilling new holes 60 degrees out from the existing?

Dave
 
Don,

Just caught your picture.......Stay safe over there, and thanks for the service!!!!!
 
Timothy R.-

Is there a lot of oil around the breather? One thing you might try is removing and taking apart the breather assembly and cleaning it, and then re-installing it with new gaskets. That made my 128 stop blowing smoke.
 
David K., Ah! I was thiking it might be this one that you posted a few years back (see photo), but now that I look at the photo I realize it's a 126 not a 107. :eek:)

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The dates have been announced for this year's Lake County (IL) Farm Heritage Association show: September 24 & 25, 2005.

Everone now knows soon enough - no excuses
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<font size="-2">hmmm - why do I keep thinking "Art Garfunkel" when I see that picture...</font>
 
Don,

How can a person thank someone for having the courage and the strength that you show by being a member of our armed forces? You risk your life so our families can be safe and free. I do not know what to say or how to show my thanks. All I can say is I will keep you and your family in my prayers. I truely hope you and the rest of our men will be home soon.

Thank you,
Chuck
 

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