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Archive through June 06, 2015

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jpatchett

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Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
350
displayname
Jim Patchett
Adam

FAQ #7

http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html

The PTO drive pulley should spin freely when the PTO center button is pressed in and lock up to the crank when the button is not pushed in.

If the PTO is locked up to the crank when trying to start, the SG will likely not spin engine fast enough to start.

Jim
 
Adam,

You may have "over adjusted" the PTO button. Try "slipping" the PTO clutch while starting the tractor......sometimes the button pushes too hard on the release and locks up the clutch. If that is the case, back off the turnbuckle until the PTO turns freely.....
 
can anybody tell me if spacer PN/ IH-473431-R3 are hardened or are they just a standard bushing/spacer? these i believe are the cone spacers that go inside the spindle between the bearing cones. some thoughts for my 42"....thanx

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spacer PN/ IH-473431-R3 i believe, contrary to my previous post, are the pulley spacers. don't know what i was thinkin'....sorry... same question tho Hardened or standard? thanx
 
The cone spacer should have a slot cut thru the side of it. That allows grease to get to both bearings from the zerk.
 
Hydro question, have 105 that wont move,fluid level ok,relief valves frozen in up postion,shaft turn both ends,could the relief valves still be a problem, or filter? small sounds, kinda like its trying, will turn the wheels slowly off the ground. whats next?
 
Hello everyone. I have a problem with my 126 gear driven. It is stuck in reverse. I have cleaned it up and now have taken off the seat and mower deck (just so I can get underneath and have a little more room to see) and removed the stick shifter. Inside I do not see anything out of the ordinary. On the 2 & 3rd shift the "bolt" is loose but the "bolt" on reverse and 1st. is tight. This happened to me many years ago (before the internet and shared knowledge)on a different 126 and all I did is align up the shifters in the neutral position and tighten up the bolts and it worked many years after, could this be the same situation or do I need to look deeper? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
Ray M.
You didn't mention if it wouldn't move when running or not.
If it won't not running,You posted your problem!
"relief valves frozen in up position"

Irregardless, those need to be FIXED ASAP!
 
Ray M. It may be possible that you've sheared a pin just enough so that the shaft will spin and be able to just turn the wheels when they are off the ground when the tractor is running. Also... As Charlie stated, FIX those frozen relief valves immediately. Check both pins at each end. Keep us posted.
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Mike C. I'm going out on a limb and say those spacers are more than likely hardened.
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Looking at 1450 cc. It is a basket case but all original.The man wants $375 for all.Good deal not good deal.What do you think.Do have the ability to rebuild.
 
Alfred, it's only worth what your willing to pay for it. If you have the ability to make it new again and want a 1450, then go for it. If its problems are above your capabilities, then no. Start with something you can handle.

You don't want it to become a frustrating money pit.
 
Alfred,

Up in Vermont that might be a good deal and it might not. I would say $375 is too high if it is in poor condition. If in poor condition, the only way I would pay that is if was dual hydraulics, lift and front I/O ports.

Any attachments?

I don't own a "quiet line" but the engine mounts and muffler baffle castings are common issues. I have heard the failure to repair the mounts can result in a leaking/broken oil pan.

Something is worth what you are willing to pay for it, not what someone is asking for it.

Jim
 
Alfred T. First of all....
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WELCOME!!! Personal thoughts about $375.00 and it is a basket case. By basket case and no pictures I will assume that it is in pieces. Questions to ask yourself.... How are the tires, engine need an overhaul, sheet metal complete and not all bent up, steering components need a lot of work? The list can become very expensive. Any attachments and if so how good of condition? My honest opinion is that as a non running basket case and if it is commplete so you don't have to buy anymore pieces.... the MOST I'd offer and this is high would be $150. And for that it better have something special like a Brinly hitch and wheel weights. Later this week I'm going to look at a 1450 that more than likely needs rag joints and new isomounts. It runs great, has a nice mower deck and is a very overall nice tractor. It won't be priced near that much. ( And I surely don't need anymore tractors. But this is coming from a very good friend.)
 
Jim and Steve,

I parked it for the weekend and came back to it today. Turns out I did have the turnbuckle too loose so the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. Tightened it up and the tractor started right up. Actually, had to tighten up the belt from the starter to the engine also, but it seems to be working just fine now. Thanks for the help guys!
 
Hi, I recently purchased a rear pto for my 100. When I bought it, I didn't realize it doesn't have the little cut out for the fill plug on the back of a 100 rear end. I'm assuming this means I actually have a rear pto for an original. Which is fine, because I also have an original. My real question is how do I know if the main shaft that came with the pto package is for an original or a 70/100? What's the difference? Also I found the installation manual for a rear pto on a 70/100, but are there any instructions out there for installing one on an original? Specifically I'd like to know how IH wants you to cut out the fenders so the engagement lever fits. Thanks for the help!
 
Charlie...engine running, will move without, but acts like valves not releasing (makes sense), pushes hard. Marlin...positve not sheared pin (externaly),shaft turning on rear of unit, changes with engine speed. odd thing is tractor seems like low hour machine and trunion slot is perfect,no wear. can fluid bypass thru valves even when there up?
 
Ray,
pull the relief valves and inspect.
did you mention the hydro filter, is it oem?
 
When the valves are up they won't allow the tractor to free wheel. One way to check the shaft is with the engine off somehow find a way to keep the rear shaft coming from the hydro from turning. Take a vice grip and then by hand turn the drive shaft. If the rear shaft on the hydro doesn't try and turn but the drive shaft does then more than likely a sheared pin. DO NOT try to stop the rear hydro shaft while the tractor is running. As Jeff B. suggested remove the check valves, clean and inspect.
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Off to work so everyone have a safe and great day.
 
Recently purchased a 1250 S/N 613448 with a 38" deck. Needs quite a bit of work, but think the $100 was worth it. Engine S/N Tag attached is 8168233. Looks like a 1977 Kohler, but the decal with model number etc is not on the frame. How can I find the model Number, as the parts place won't even talk to me without the model number. Need to work on the ignition, as I am not getting any spark and want to start with a new coil. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
 

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