Archive through July 29, 2007

[ctrost]

i've been reading through the faq, havent really found the right answer/info.

having a problem keeping a belt on the s/g pulley/engine pulley on a 109, the pulley on the engine isnt in line with the s/g pulley. first step was replacing the pulley, as it seemed a little wobbly on the crank....
question is, is there a surefire way to know where on the crank the big pulley is supposed to sit?

as it looks, in order to be in the right place it would almost be rubbing against the bolt that holds the s/g arm...

any ideas/pictures?

 

[lhinds]

Colin the repair manual will give you a distance from end of crankshaft for the pulley. You could also have the wrong s/g on there.When the pulley is correct it will be close to the bolt. Hope this helps.
LUTHER

 

[rbedell]

Colin T:

How about some pictures of the pulley, S/G, and the alignment...??

 

[dtanner]

I have been verry busy overlooking a deck that a contractor is building for a freind trucker,he will soon run state side,this will help with cub parts. I now have to finish pto rebuild and paint on my 129 with new loader.i will post pictures of the cub when painted. moved 12 yards of chrusher dust for a pool last night for a neighbor and he was verry inpressed with my cub and wants to find 1 for his own.lol he may have the fever.i always read the posts daily at supper time .need paint, wheel weights next. later Don

 

[digger]

Man, the only thing this needs is a 5 point harness, cause it's rigged for speed!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, is that modified Original yours?

Richard C., thank you for sharing that info about the ignition switch/ charging issue. Good info to have. Quite timely for helping Ed out too!

Brian B., nice ob on the clutch!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul F., good to see you post again! Nice looking saw rig! Is that yours? I see some of your Custom Cubs in the background.

 

[bbrigham]

I'll probably have better luck shootin at the moon. Does anyone happen to have a top input shaft for an O with rear pto layin around you could measure? I need accurate overall length.

thanks
Bren

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Nope, it's just one I found online.

 

[rrschmitt]

Brent L.

Loss of power and overheating can also be a sign that your points may need to be cleaned/replaced and adjusted to .020 clearance when open. Had the same problem when I got my 149 several years ago. Thing wouldn't hardly pull itself up a hill and was running hot. New points and condensor took care of that problem right away. If the points gap isn't right, it affects the timing and it fires the spark too early. Check these first before working on the carb settings.

 

[mgonitzke]

Ron S. and Brent L.-

Setting the points to .020" isn't always going to time the engine correctly. Point wear, pushrod and cam wear and manufacturing tolerances pretty much guarantee that setting the gap to .020" isn't going to work. What I do is remove the points cover and plug in the timing sight hole and rotate the flywheel, find the "S" and "T" marks and clean the up so you can see them. Pull the plug wire before you do this. Then, get out your favorite multimeter and connect one lead to a good ground. I usually stick it in the hole for the point cover screw. Place the other lead on the screw holding the point that isn't grounded. Notice that when the points are closed the resistance is 0 and when they are open the resistance in infinity. Now, rotate the engine by hand CCW from the front, which is the normal direction of rotation. The points will be closed most of the time and the meter will read 0 ohms. When the points just begin to break the resistance fluctuates and then goes to infinity. At that exact point where it goes to infinity, stop rotating the engine and see If you can see the "S" mark. You want to adjust the points such that the the points begin to break just as the "S" mark is centered in the sight hole in the flywheel shroud or bearing plate. This is easier than using a timing light in my opinion, and it has worked many times for me. Usually if the timing's off the engine will start extremely hard and have no power. It'll have to "spool up" for 10-15 sec. when you engage the deck.

Now I believe Brent said that he had the main fuel needle out 1 1/2 turns....that's way too lean, I would verify the carb is adjusted correctly first, for one, it's faster and easier to do, and usually it's the problem.

 

[pfunk]

Thanks Kraig. Yep that's a drag saw I made to run off the back of my Cub Cadet just so I could say there's a use for the rear PTO. It works OK but I'd like to find a less agressive saw blade. Every couple of cuts I have to apply more belt dressing. I can't find any of that "stick stuff" we used to use on the farm and all the steam engine guys at Thresherman Park this weekend had no idea where to get any.

There was also a guy that wanted me to find out where he can get a fiberglass pan seat (124 vintage) reupholstered. I know I've seen it discussed on here, but don't recall when or where. The seam that they put in it didn't seem to bother him. Any help?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul F., I had a seat reupholstered a few years back I'll dig up the info and email it to you. Do you have any higher resolution photos of your drag saw?

 

[jcarlton]

These fenders came on the original I am restoring they aren't from a wheel horse, anybody have any ideas or know what they are from?

 

[cengelking]

Just got done working our fest for Streamwood. So Who's going to Little G? MikeM, Myself., Mark M., Steve B.(Big and Middle) will be their on Saturday. Were all bringing tractor to pull. Should be a great time.

 

[kmcconaughey]

This just in from Ben Corn aka "Pops":

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Kraig: Here is 3 pictures from the Wabash, Indiana: Old Boys Toys show held last week. Over 400 tractors, big and small was presented. Quite a show and a very good time.

Picture 007 some of Steve Henderson's herd (forum member).

Picture 008 76 special, the Roth's family narrow fronts, and pops sitting on the end.

Picture 009 a close up of the Roth's narrow fronts. The Cub has a 440 CC Kaw. Motor in it and the little JD is plain sweet. I know not yellow
but a nice job anyway.

Pops<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Photo 007

Photo 008

Photo 009

 

[bellwood]

I have a question about a Cadet with a Kohler K301A motor

The Cadet runs really hot and smokes white-ish from the air filter while running... The cadet runs well aside from that

I have no idea about past service or maintenance

I do not know my Cadets model/serial at this time as I haven't pulled the information yet but it has a yellow body, white hood, low-rise white seat, electric start, choke -> magneto -> blank for a lighter, single lever for deck height with top push button and small side button... off the top of my head thats all i can think of

 

[jlang]

NOTICE PLEASE--Good NEWS!

Mr. Novotny just stopped by and gave me some new info about plowday in Tama. The Plow Day site has been moved.
I just posted new info on the Up-coming Plow Day near Tama Iowa. The site has been moved to just South of Tama Iowa instead of just East. It's a much better site with 50 acres to plow. Date is August 11th. See thread of up-coming plowdays elsewhere in this forum.
HERE

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brian, you didn't say whether or not it is a gear drive. But I would guess it's either a 124 (gear drive) or a 125 (hydrostatic drive). Sounds like the carb might need to be adjusted.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - Did You notice on Pop's pic #7 the difference in the shade of BLUE between the NEW and OLD decals for the hood sides on OUR favorite series of Cubbies? I got a set for My 72 a month or so ago and they're WAY darker and the printing for the model # is not "Outline", it's bold block printing. It and the 70/100 are getting "DuPont Overhauls" sometime this summer/winter. Not actually DuPont, I'll use PPG paint. Base coat/clear coat w/hardener.