Archive through June 23, 2010

[kide]

Gary:
Adjust the throttle cable, the engine should start speeding up as soon as you start moving the lever.. Remember that whatever you see with it stopped isn't the same as running - the governor will start pushing back against the throttle ....

 

[dross]

Tedd, been a while.

Gary, theres some things you need, You need to know what RPM the engine is running. without that everything else is a guess.

 

[apsmith]

Hey guys, just wanted to pop in here and let everybody know I got my first Cub Cadet. It's a 149. Needs some work, but for $100 I couldn't pass it up.

It needs a head gasket, so I'm going to order that soon. Other than that it should run just fine.

 

[kide]

Dave:
"7. The engine does not begin to increase speed until the point on the dash shown in the picture. "

This pretty much tells me the throttle cable needs adjusting....If he can get it to run faster, he can always borrow a tach if he thinks it's running too fast, right now that's the least of his problems.. Usually if you get the cable too tight, you can't get back to idle speed..

 

[hydroharry]

Andrew S - that CC 149 doesn't look like it was worth picking up. Before you go wasting time unloading it I'll send you my brothers address over in the Springs and you can just drop it off there. I'll pick it up next time I get by his way and either haul it to CT or back to WA.
NICE PICKENS


Gary S - I agree with Gerry and Dave - you need to adjust the throttle cable BUT to the correct RPMs. You can do it by ear if you're familiar with Kohler RPMs and probably be close enough, but if you're not familiar and don't have a tach of some type then you're on shaky grounds to possibly over rev. Hope someone else has a method to lead you thru an adjustment without a tach.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they often find another resting place)

 

[dross]

Gerry, yes. Gary moved the engine now his problem is it doesn't move fast enough. I do think his problem is RPM's. something slipped. To rule this theory out or prove it is gonna take some type of tach.

 

[hydroharry]

Gary S - upon further review of your pics your problem would appear to be the throttle cable adjustment. When you moved your engine forward without disconnecting the cables you must have pulled the cable within the clamp and not realized it. This is somewhat of an "educated" guess based on your pic FULL THROTTLE.

It's hard to see since it's dark (I adj the brightness slightly) but there is a high speed stop screw just below the cable clamp, and it appears that throttle lever (on the side of the engine shroud) is NOT coming back against the screw when AT FULL throttle. This tells me your cable moved. My suggestion here for adjustment may sound a bit less than professional, but here goes.
Perform the following with the engine NOT running:
1 - move your throttle lever on the dash to FULL THROTTLE.
2 - grab hold of the throttle cable on the gas tank side of the fire wall.
3 - pull on the cable somewhat lightly and gradually increasing until the cable begins to move.
4 - while performing no. 3 watch the throttle lever move that is on the side engine shroud.
5 - pull on the cable "just" until the throttle lever reaches the point of the throttle stop screw.
6 - ASSUMING the throttle stop screw on the side of the engine shroud is in the correct position your engine should now run at full RPMs when the throttle on the dash is moved to full throttle position.
7 - Move dash throttle lever to idle position.
8 - Start engine using your normal starting process (if this is full choke and half throttle be prepared to immediately turn engine OFF if it starts at SCREAMING RPMs - but I don't think it will).
9 - Upon starting let engine warm for a period at idle or slightly above idle (assuming it sounds like it's running at idle speed).
10 - Once warmed up, gradually move dash throttle towards full speed. Do NOT move it to the FULL throttle position if the engine speeds sounds like it's running faster than you have ever heard it.
11 - Only move to full throttle if it sounds as it did before your engine removal exercise.
12 - If it seems to be running at full throttle, then reduce speed to half throttle AND carefully drive out of your garage while in the SEATED position ON THE TRACTOR, and using normal care).
13 - Resume your normal tractor use and attempt your up hills travels.
14 - Hopefully no. 13 above is NOT unlucky.
15 - If the tractor seems to operate as before your engine removal THEN ENJOY YOUR TRAVELS.
16 - You may still need to make some minor adjustments to idle speed position and full throttle position by adjusting the cable so I would recommend obtaining at least a Vibration Tach. (Someone on here may have a method to use another type or provide other method).

Really hope this resolves your problem. Let us know, and remember:

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but various exercises may put them out of correct adjustments)

 

[hydroharry]

Gary S - one more thing - I'm sittin here shinning my finger nails so please let us know ASAP if this worked!!!!! (Ole KenTUCK may be grindin his teeth - I think he still has some).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (made famous by lengthy posts)

 

[gsmyth]

1450
Tachometer I don't have, but if provided a ideal idle and a full throttle RPM,I have access to a adjustable strobe light from a lab. If I'm lucky the engine RPM will fit within the capable range of the strobe flashes. I'll put a chalk mark on the PTO pulley or drive shaft and stop adjusting when the mark appears to be stationary. Too many ifs, but it might work.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[hydroharry]

Gary S - the Operate and Service Manual for a 1450 indicate idle at 1800 and full speed 3600. I think the 1800 is really to high, and was something IH did to avoid "Iso Mount Shaking". I believe 1200 is generally ok, and you might even be ok at 900-1000. Previous to the QL series (like the 149) I believe the recommended idle speed was 1000 but 800 or 900 was really ok. If you can get yours down to 8 or 9 and it's not shaking all over then this would be your "ideal" idle. As for FULL throttle, some guys like setting them up at 3800 non-load, so under load they are about 3600. This is really up to you.

Good luck,

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (even varying RPMs)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Before I'm flooded with "Where's that chart from?" queries I'll post the cover of the manual:

 

[kide]

Gary:
Strobe should work, but remember it'll "freeze" the shaft at multiples of the set strobe rate, so I'd start with the high end first (you are not likely to see 7200 rpm (for long, anyway))..

We are not building a rocket here, folks.....Gary has run this tractor, should have a feel for RPM range - I don't think he'll blow it up if it's a little off in RPM....

 

[gsmyth]

Thanks to all. I'm starting right away.

 

[hydroharry]

Gary S - my finger nails are down to the bone (and KenTUCK ain't got no teeth left). It should only take 10 minutes to go thru my 15 steps. You can do step 16 after you let us know the results. HELP (as Lucas says). I won't remain conscious much longer with all the blood loss.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but do fall unconscious)

 

[mgonitzke]

I would recommend no slower than 1200 RPM idle since this is a splash lube engine. It needs all the help it can get.

 

[jderstine]

Mowed with the newly acquired 122 tonight. Ran pretty good and did a good job on the lawn.

I did notice it was puffing a bit of smoke out of the breather through.

 

[kweaver]

Gary - Check the backside of the throttle lever assembly to make sure you didn't pull the wound sheath out of it when you moved the engine.

I know the cheap plastic assemblies will crack and loose the grip on the sheath and the throttle wont respond right.

 

[nhasson]

Kraig, is there anything you don't have a picture of?

 

[hydroharry]

KenTUCK - you might be on to something about Gary's handle. In the pic it looks like it might be sitting a little deep into the dash.

Matt G - the Service manual recommends 1000rpm's for the engines pre-AQS. I know we're talking splash oiling but what kinda difference do you think those extra 200 splashes per minute really makes???? I wonder if someone has some cooling data or something. Somebody posted a chart couple days ago. I could see if we're talking increased heat to possibly raise them but based on the longevity I've already seen from these engines I'm still thinking 8-900 is really ok (and less harmful to your hearing as well).

Gary - where are ya buddy???? I got no blood left to bleed, I'm die-in!!!!! KenTUCK is grasping his last breath, or last something. Did ya end up going to the 6/12 TOOL STORE???? Do you live close to Lucas??? Throw us a bone on what's going on at least. You were already gone over a week and we couldn't stand the suspense - now you're back and we gotta hear some kinda response.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they occassionally get a stiff throttle)