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Archive through June 01, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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bproctor

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2010
Messages
227
displayname
Bob G Proctor
Yeah! Your right Ken.

I'll suck it up and spend the money. By the way, is there an engine or heat paint for these and is that what they call federal yellow for a 1966, 71.

Do any of you guys know where the "Super Discount Antique Cub Cadet Paint Store" is.

Bob
 
Lure of the Cub,
If you Google this woman’s name you get 26,000 hits referring to her scholarly works in psychology but when she sees my 126 she begs to mow the field for me. Hey, hey, hey..

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Bob-

If you're worried about decreasing the value, stay away from rattle can paint. It will not last. If you want it to look nice for a longer amount of time, paint it with a gun, and use paint with hardener.

Josh-

That part belongs on there if the creeper is mounted on a QL or 82 series.
 
Bob G - You really need to explore the website.
Here's something I have posted in The Machine Shop.
Paint

PPG seems to be the best from what I've seen. Somewhere there's numbers for the colors. I'll see if I have it in my files.
 
Kraig - You got those PPG numbers ? I thought I had them in a "Paint" txt file in my old forum folder but ... can't find it.
My eyes are going shut ... I've been up since 6:15am yesterday !
 
MATT - I wouldn't blast "rattle-can" paint jobs too bad, maybe the quality of the paint has deteriorated since I painted my CC 72 back in 1981 but it doesn't look THAT bad! Also it never sitting outside a single night since Jan. '81 when I repainted it makes a HUGE difference.

Like any other refinishing method, the results are directly proportional to the work put in the prep work.

SON & I refinished some stuff on the front of his '93 Lightning p/u several years ago with PPG base coat/clear coat with hardner in the clear coat and the results were really good. But it's not indestructable either. An empty plastic trash can blew across the driveway 2-3 yrs ago and chipped a piece of both BC & CC off the bumper the size of the palm of my hand.

BOB G. - All IH CC's are IH #483 or 483B federal yellow, same color. But the shade of white varies by year/model.

DAVE S. - Mental Health is directly proportional to the amount of seat time one gets on a nice looking NF Cub Cadet.
 
Josh:
My bad - I forgot the older gear drives just used a coupling at the end of the drive shaft...sorry!
 
Dennis-

Perhaps...the only halfway-decent rattle-can I've bought recently was a yellow one from CC, but still...yuck. The CC paint quality was better than Valspar and some of the others I've used, but the can sucks. It has a tendency to splatter come out inconsistently. Or maybe that's the paint.

You're definitely right though; if you don't leave it outside, it won't fade too bad. There's nothing in rattle can paint to give it UV protection. It also isn't very gas/oil resistant.

It might be cheaper in the long run for him to buy quarts and hardener and spray it that way. I know how little coverage you get out of a spray can, and I also know that the 100 I painted needed about a quart and a half of yellow to get good coverage, since yellow covers like crap. The last CC yellow spray can I bought was $12, and he'll probably need 10 of those to get equivalent coverage to a quart of paint, ignoring how many cans of primer and white he'll need. That $120 will buy him a quart of paint and hardener, and probably have enough left over for a Harbor Freight paint gun...

A friend of mine painted a truck with rattle cans. I tried to convince him to do it right with a gun, and he didn't listen. about 400 spray cans of primer and paint later (I'm NOT kidding) he had the whole thing covered. In less than a year it rusted through again, and now it's all faded and falling off.
 
In hindsight I wish I had painted my Original with a paint gun instead of with rattle cans. Even though I have it stored inside I've noticed a very slight "chalking" of the yellow paint. It does shine back up with a soft cloth and gentle buffing. I may have to wax it and see if that helps prevent the "chalking".
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I'm on hold with my #1 125 refurb due to not wanting to use rattle can paint. I need buy a good paint gun and then need to learn how to use the paint gun. Hmmm, I wonder if my friend that owns the body shop would paint it for me? AND I wonder how much he'd charge.
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MATT - I don't think ANY OEM paint is immune to fading if left outside. Biggest complaint I've heard of Valspar paint regardless of color is fading. Red is actually MUCH worse at fading than yellow or white. And Valspar used to be an IH paint supplier! GAS is death to paint, oil actually seems to keep it from fading. That's why I powder coated my gas tank and all the engine covers for the 72 several years ago. And a good polishing once or twice every year with paste wax makes the paint hold up MUCH better.

To perform a successful repaint you need more than just a cheap HF gun. The compressor of course, and bigger is always better, cools the air more out of the compressor when not running and makes for drier air, then you need hose, and a coalescing dryer/filter & PSI regulator. And I always use a disposable dessicant filter right on the gun. My Buddy even went as far as to get dedicated hoses for painting. Even built a permanent ventlated booth. He did have problems with fish eyes on a mower deck he painted before He got the dedicated hoses.

And then using hardner you have to get the really GOOD charcoal filter respirator, the hardner is basically CA glue and can kill you or severely injure your lungs. Using just a surgical mask is no where near good enough. Then you need solvent for thinning & clean-up. A gravity flow gun requires WAY less solvent for cleaning, the old syphon feed are terrible to clean.

When we did the painting on SON's truck, actually a very close match to IH 2150 BTW, a quart of color, quart of clear, gallon of solvent, hardner, graduated mixing cups, some additive for the plastic frt air dam & headlight buckets came to $250 for PPG materials. Best to stay with a single manufacturer now days since all parts of the paint system are compatible. With BC/CC the quart of color was enough to paint HALF the reg. cab short box p/u, but we'd have needed at least another gallon of clear & more hardner. There's cheaper paint systems available, but each person has to make that determination. The system Son & I used had specific temp ranges for the thinner/reducer, so much paint, so much reducer, so much hardner.


Forget if it was summer of '68 or '69 I repainted the grill, hood, & gas tank on the Super H with IH rattle can 2150 and installed new decals. Yes, it's faded, even sitting inside for over forty yrs, but you can still see the dark streaks down the sides of the hood & grill where the radiator cap pressure relief stuck one afternnoon mowing hay and released shooting anti-freeze all down my month-old paint. Hot paint, hot anti-freeze, and a little dust on the sheetmetal sure ruined my day. It was all dryed, and damage done by the time I could get anywhere near water to rinse the antifreeze off.
 
KRAIG - Is that from about 1963/1964 ?? I think that's when 2150 Red was "created".
 
Denny, first add I posted is from 1963, second add is from 1964. Good memory, I'm impressed.
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KRAIG - Does the term "CRS" mean anything to you? ;-) I used to know what it meant but I forget.....

Wish I could find one specific issue of Red Power mag. I think it was Guy Fay who wrote a really good article on all colors of IH paints through the years, was probably about ten-twelve yrs ago. Been many issues with IH paints thru the years. Dad bought 2-3 gallons of what should have been red at an auction 45 yrs ago. Turned out it was almost purple. Parts guy at the local dealership said it was "Mixing enamel" for blending 50-50 with a bad batch of red that quickly faded to almost Allis Orange made back in the late 1940's. Dad mixed it with white enamel, and we had the ONLY pink hayrack around!
 
Hi All,

I have been lurking on the site ever since I bought a 169 last month. After owning numerous MTD's and the like I figured if I was going to be working a tractor it might as well be a good one!

My 169, I'll call "Smokey", is in very decent overall shape with the deck, Hydro et la in great working order. The PO is a CC fanatic and a great guy. When I bought the old girl I knew I was going to have to rebuild the K341, but like I said I'm tired of working on crappy tractors. Like her name implies Smokey is enough to make the EPA cry, she has a great love and thirst for oil. When I first got it the tractor had been sitting for a year and the exhast valve was sticking to the point of it where it would barely run when warm. A good cleaning out with SeaFoam has cured the rough running to the point where it runs perfectly, other than the blue haze that surrounds me. The thing that I notice is that most of the oil seems to be coming out of the aircleaner might this mean that the valves are still sticking or is it just a case where the rings are shot? Also the head gasket is leaking out the front with some gusto, if I change this out will the added compression blow the rings right out of her? I would really like to baby her through this summer and do a complete rebuild over the winter.

Sorry to be tacky and ask a ton of questions on my first post.
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Barry: Welcome:
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Tacky(IMO)is your first post to say "I just bought a Club Cadet. What color should I paint it."
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I think I'd change the head gasket. While your in there you'll get an idea of what the carbon situation is on the top of the head and maybe do some de-carboning of the valves. 30w oil is good, this time of year!
 
Thanks to those who responded to my previous questions. I've got another one. On my 149, the link is missing from the brake pedal to the hydro control (so that when you press on the brake it goes into "neutral").

I think what I'm missing is parts #14 and 15 in the drawing. It's clear how this attaches to the brake pedal, but I'm unclear where and how it attaches on the other end. Does it fit into piece number 6 & 7? That's kind of how it looks from the parts diagram, but I'm not clear. Does anyone have a picture? Thanks

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James:
Yup, those are the parts and here's where the rod goes on the other end...Note that in this picture, it's hanging, as the clevis end is not connected..also, on the hydro end, it's "trapped" between the two plates - no washer or cotter key necessary..
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