Archive through July 31, 2013

[dschwandt]

Gerry< I can probably come up w/some old rusted wrenches, maybe a crumpled up cigar wrapper and a book or two of old moldy matches maybe a greasy rag or two.

Unfortunatly, my good old Craftsman 15/16" x 1" box end that I got w/a set when I was 16 won't be there. I managed to loose it and plow it under last saturday at Central City Brown Farm Pioneer Days! If anyone comes across it next year, remember you read it here first!!

 

[dtanner]

David Stevens

( I was told that those brass filings are probably from one or more of the slippers on the pistons... and that the pump is TOASTED. So I guess it is time to replace the pump.)

There is only the drive plats that have any brass and that would be a very small coating.

There is no other brass in the pump.

 

[kide]

Don and David....
Don - you are much more experienced in rebuilding hydros, but a couple of things bother me about David's symptoms ....
1: Fine brass debris isn't from a catastrophic failure. It'll start to fail, but it should be in steps, not all at once and there'd be more than fine debris.

2: He can't roll it more than a couple of feet. If the release valves are working, he'd be able to roll it.. I'm wondering more about something jammed in the pinion??

I don't know ... we need the Sunstrand Expert.......

 

[dtanner]

Gerry Ide

I hunted through so many pictures I have taken and could not find the pictures of the broken pump gear and pin. I know if that pump gear was broken the pump shaft might still turn but might jam when the engine is started. I would love to have his tractor here for 1 hr .

 

[dstevens]

yes I took off the rear plate....gears look fabulous ... the bits of brass were in the bottom as you look in at the gears...so the drive plate is part of the PUMP ?

The transmission doesn't roll freely with the engine off, it rolls a couple of feet then locks up with the engine off. I towed it on a trailer recently before it stopped working. I am using the recommended Hytran fluid. I was told that those brass filings are probably from one or more of the slippers on the pistons... and that the pump is TOASTED. So I guess it is time to replace the pump.

 

[dstevens]

The mower was working fine as far as the transmission goes...It went forward and backward,. The motor quit starting so I trailered it to a local 5 star rated shop to make the repair. From that point the transmission had problems. I know they pushed the tractor in to their shop after removing it from my trailer. They called me and told me that the transmission will not engage. The transmission was not the reason I took it into the shop. Now the tractor runs like a top...but wont move!

 

[dtanner]

David Stevens

Yes the drive plate is in the pump one for forward movement and one plate for reverse.

(The transmission doesn't roll freely with the engine off, it rolls a couple of feet then locks up with the engine off)

so I think you are saying you can`t push the tractor with out it locking up (stopping) ?

(slippers on the pistons... )

they are steel not brass and ride on the big washer in my picture below and the speed is controlled by the basket angle .

If I were you I would mark the charge pump ,remove the drive shaft .then take the two bolts out of the charge pump just to see if that could be your problem.
These pumps in the IH cub cadets are realy bullet proof and about the only thing that will ruin them is towing fast with the engine not running . and even then you have to creat enuf heat to score the piston surface. even then they will work but will lose so much (bypass fluid) that they can`t be efficent .

I have taken apart a few pumps and can`t understand what could be happening (knowing how they work.)There are only a few things I think that could happen .

Charge pump gear broken; relife valve not releasing ; broken axel!

 

[dtanner]

David Stevens

Not all five star shops have five star people work at you tractor when you take it in for what ever reason. And a lot don`t know **** when it comes to Cubs lol.

Ok more info is better; pushing the tractor by hand 30 ft is not going to hurt the pump. I bet someone grabbed the hydro handel with the brake applied and forced the handel.they could have broken a pin .

 

[fcurrier]

Not rolling freely with engine not running is natural! The check valves bleed down, then build up pressure when you roll it a couple feet.

 

[bjamison]

Donald T said, "Not all five star shops have five star people work at you tractor when you take it in for what ever reason. And a lot don`t know **** when it comes to Cubs lol."

More true words have never been said! The more dealers I swerve into the more I'm glad the warranty on my tractor (or anything else) has run out.

However, those dealers that give a #$%, I do everything I can to support.

Cub Cadet content: May tinker with the 1650 again tonight.

 

[drglinski]

The IH shop that my dad works at sold out to a new owner 2-3 years ago and they took all lawn equipment out of the "farm service" building he works in and put it in a different location with newer employees. Most of them don't know jack when it comes to working on lawn equipment as many of the guys that do know how are still working the farm location. My dad hasn't worked on a (client's) Cub Cadet in years.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Donald T. Look very close at the slippers on top of the piston... THAT IS BRASS!!! I thought I taught you guys a lot better about these pumps than that.

NOW... A little refresher about those 15U pumps and TOWING THEM. FIRST OF ALL... There is a reason the warning sign says DO NOT TOW!!! It means just that. Pushing a good pump only a few feet with the automatic bleed out valves or even not releasing the manual valves DOES build up pressure. And it doesn't take pushing or towing it very many feet with all that pressure in the system to cause damage.

Remember what I do for a living???? Maybe ... JUST maybe... those shop guys pushed that tractor or even towed it with another tractor and didn't say anything... Think about it... Would YOU admit to doing something like that and know that you had to pay for the repairs out of your pocket?

Now the only real way to find out just what in God's freakin' creation is wrong with that pump is to follow the manual that I sent and take the critter apart and find out what is wrong. Then fix it or get another pump. Brass shavings in your transmission system doesn't not mean yippee skippee... simple fix.

Not back to hibernation. <font size="-2"> Again... Geez... I thought I taught you guys how to troubleshoot better than what I've been reading. </font>

 

[dtanner]

Marlin Homrighausen

I have a ported pump here that was shipped with the relief valves removed. So I had plans to take the pump apart to clean it before use. I will have another look at the plungers for brass.next week my wife and four of her friends are using our fiver to camp out for four days. Just the girls they say with a lot of wine and food lol. I will clean the pump up and report back on what I find.

Charlie I will need gaskets and seals ;I will order them in the am.


And Marlin I always fess up : in the end it is less painful.

 

[lhinds]

David I like the tool box. Iirc that is a tool box with oil can holder from a IH horse drawn mowing machine. I used one like it when I was young. The mower had oil cups instead of grease zerks so it came with a oil can.

 

[jclazar]

Luther Ray H.- I second that comment. That box looks like what came on a # 19 IH sickle bar. Horse drawn, of course.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Not mad or upset with anyone here. Really worn out from working too many days. Also... one of the ONLY shops that I totally trust to ever take any of my tractors too besides the CASEIH dealer recently closed their doors. Big BOX stores drove them out of business.

I'm praying that pump isn't done for since after next years you'll only be able to order parts and not a brand new pump (unless you want to buy it piece by piece). However some shops don't have the brightest mechanics.

Off to work...

 

[wshytle]

Nice to hear from you Marlin...it's been a while.

Don-

I agree with what you say about the pump or at least with the parts I understand. That box of parts was posted a couple of years ago if I'm not mistaken.

David Stevens-

It's time to split the tractor, remove the pump and make your own box of parts like the one Don posted. Once you go through the pump you'll better understand things. Disassembly can be tricky so keep us up to date on your progress. You'll also be able to see the problem or eliminate the pump as the problem altogether. It's also a good time to replace the four seals. Charlie has all of the parts you will need including the housing gasket and charge pump o-ring. I like to paint the cast part of the pump when it's apart. You want to keep paint off of the aluminum half with the fins. These pumps get quite hot especially in the summer months.

 

[bjamison]

Quick solenoid question. My 1650 has a solenoid with 3 connection points. The two large ones go to the starter and battery - the power side of the solenoid. The smaller one goes to the ignition - the control side of the solenoid.

Question is - why not 2 connections on the control side, one + and one - to complete the circuit. I assume the connection I've got is the + side and the solenoid is grounded - maybe to the chassis?

Reason I ask is I've got a 4 connector solenoid with two connections for the power side to the starter and two connections for the control side + and - as I understand it. I thought I might use it in place of the solenoid I have on the tractor presently.

How does the solenoid on the 1650 operate?

 

[dfrisk]

BILL - Ever noticed the topic on the index page clear down at the bottom called "Wiring Diagrams"?

1650 is about half way down.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?lm=1291234823&file=/217125/217192.html

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle

Wayne that box of part are from the 1512 diesel that had a bad shaft . I took a shaft from a 149 hydro and replace the shaft for my diesel.

Bill Most solenoid have the extra connections and I just forget why. A solenoid is really a switch for high voltage . You ignition switch could not stand the voltage required to start an engine so a solenoid is used. a small amount of power applied to the small terminals activate the larger circuit that is between the battery and the starter.