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Archive through August 19, 2010
- Thread starter mgonitzke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Been a busy summer havent been on at all... just wanted to ask a question quick.
With our friends coming over soon I was thinking I could do a cub version of a hay wagon ride. I have 6 straw bales on a 6x10 trailer (the bails were sitting out and got a little extra heavy due to moisture). I want to get your all opinions on weather or not this is safe. The trailer empty is 1400#, the bailes are... I dunno... 200-300 more plus up to 3 overweight adults and 3 kids so maybe around 2600# of weight being pulled. I do have the extreme motorworks lower hitch. I just dont want to be out in the field and hit a bit of a rut and tear the rear end off the tractor or anything...
What do y'all think:
1000 Cub with some extra grips and xtreme hitch (I'll also take off the deck for extra clearance):
And the 6x10 'hay wagon':
With our friends coming over soon I was thinking I could do a cub version of a hay wagon ride. I have 6 straw bales on a 6x10 trailer (the bails were sitting out and got a little extra heavy due to moisture). I want to get your all opinions on weather or not this is safe. The trailer empty is 1400#, the bailes are... I dunno... 200-300 more plus up to 3 overweight adults and 3 kids so maybe around 2600# of weight being pulled. I do have the extreme motorworks lower hitch. I just dont want to be out in the field and hit a bit of a rut and tear the rear end off the tractor or anything...
What do y'all think:
1000 Cub with some extra grips and xtreme hitch (I'll also take off the deck for extra clearance):
And the 6x10 'hay wagon':
hydroharry
Well-known member
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- Harry Bursell
Mark G - on the manual lift, I see Charlie suggested looking at the pins on the rockshaft and lift handle itself. It could well be one of these, but before you go pounding them out make sure you remove the deck and mule drive, and then move the lift arm into the full up position. In this position look under the tractor and see if both lift arms are up against the frame (one on the left could be just off the frame by 1/4 to 1/2 inch - common). If the lift arms are against the frame and your lift handle is all the way back then I don't think your problem is with the lift - more likely something with your sub-frame adjustment, or pickle fork or frame itself. If your lift handle isn't going all the way back but the lift arms under the tractor are all the way, then I think you probably do have a twisted roll pin. That one on the rock shaft can be a real bear. Good luck with it.
Jerry B - what's the story on the 107??? I thought it was running great???
Tristan (under edit) - I think you're at risk. I'm not familiar with the extreme hitch, and I can't see the hitch to well in your pic, BUT it still looks like your basically "bolted" to the rearend. To be pulling the kind of weight you're talking about I'd want to be bolted to the frame - and even then make sure you are on all FLAT ground, no little knolls or hills cause the brakes won't be much good.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when Jerry gets his hands on them)
Hydro Harry
Jerry B - what's the story on the 107??? I thought it was running great???
Tristan (under edit) - I think you're at risk. I'm not familiar with the extreme hitch, and I can't see the hitch to well in your pic, BUT it still looks like your basically "bolted" to the rearend. To be pulling the kind of weight you're talking about I'd want to be bolted to the frame - and even then make sure you are on all FLAT ground, no little knolls or hills cause the brakes won't be much good.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when Jerry gets his hands on them)
Hydro Harry
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I switched the backwards hoses around on my loader, but that didn't solve my problem. The lift cylinders are agonizingly slow going up; it would probably take a minute or so for full extension. The tilt cylinders cannot tilt the bucket back up. It goes down great. If I try to actuate both levers at once, it just stops. The reservoir is about 2/3 full warm as per Steve B's suggestion, and the belt is not slipping. I could put a smaller pulley on the pump, but it seems to be slow regardless of engine speed. I remember it being slow when it was on the 124, but not this slow. I put a very large spin-on filter on the inlet side of the pump, and I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. The lift cylinder hoses for the 'down' part of the cylinder have a swivel with a restriction in them...the hole is probably 1/8" or smaller.
Does anyone have any suggestions for things I could check? After almost 2 months of work and hundreds of dollars, the only thing this thing does is look nice. I'm VERY disappointed and about ready to drive it off a cliff.
Tristan-
I don't think you'll hurt the tractor, but I don't think the brakes can stop that, either...
Does anyone have any suggestions for things I could check? After almost 2 months of work and hundreds of dollars, the only thing this thing does is look nice. I'm VERY disappointed and about ready to drive it off a cliff.
Tristan-
I don't think you'll hurt the tractor, but I don't think the brakes can stop that, either...
Tristan - I'm surprised your trailer weighs that much empty, but it sounds like you've weighed it before. Depending on size your estimate of the six straw bales is probably pretty close, I'd say 300# is correct. We'll take your word about the weight of the passengers.
If your Extreme hitch has the ears that extend up to catch one of the rear axle carrier bolts on each side you shouldn't have any hitch issues. Even the tractor pulling hitches MWSC makes & sells only pick up the seven small capscrews on the rear cover and they handle a LOT more HP & force than your 1000 is capable of. Don't think you'll pull the back off your rearend.
FOLLOW Harry's advice and stay away from hills, either going UP or going down. Your trailer outweighs your towing vehicle by about THREE times. Even with lugged tires & weights if you spin-out going up OR down hill it can get ugly real fast. And when towing off your sleeve hitch be real careful how your cargo is distributed, with high hitch weight your tractor's frt end will get very light, especially going up-hills, possibly even off the ground. But not having enough hitch weight will cause drive tire slippage and possible loss of control on steep hills.
I supplied tractors & hay racks for several hay rides when I was growing up on the farm. Not a bad idea to run a safety chain from the trailer frame to something "Structural" on the tractor that's separate from your hitch. Say maybe thread the chain inside the frame around an axle carrier. Chain bolted together is always better than relying on the hooks to stay attached even if safety-wired. Chain should have a tensile strength of at least what the trailer's gross weight is.
Last summer I hauled a LOT of 2500 to 3000+ pound trailer loads of dirt & rock with my 982 pulling off my Cat. O 3-pt to sleeve hitch adapter. I had the frt end airborn many times even with the 50" deck attached. Not sure my 120# of frt end weights would have kept it down. But I was going slow on dry concrete for only short distances.
On fairly level ground with good traction conditions, meaning NO wet grass or weeds, preferably dry packed dirt, you should be able to pull a 2500@ trailer without a problem.
If your Extreme hitch has the ears that extend up to catch one of the rear axle carrier bolts on each side you shouldn't have any hitch issues. Even the tractor pulling hitches MWSC makes & sells only pick up the seven small capscrews on the rear cover and they handle a LOT more HP & force than your 1000 is capable of. Don't think you'll pull the back off your rearend.
FOLLOW Harry's advice and stay away from hills, either going UP or going down. Your trailer outweighs your towing vehicle by about THREE times. Even with lugged tires & weights if you spin-out going up OR down hill it can get ugly real fast. And when towing off your sleeve hitch be real careful how your cargo is distributed, with high hitch weight your tractor's frt end will get very light, especially going up-hills, possibly even off the ground. But not having enough hitch weight will cause drive tire slippage and possible loss of control on steep hills.
I supplied tractors & hay racks for several hay rides when I was growing up on the farm. Not a bad idea to run a safety chain from the trailer frame to something "Structural" on the tractor that's separate from your hitch. Say maybe thread the chain inside the frame around an axle carrier. Chain bolted together is always better than relying on the hooks to stay attached even if safety-wired. Chain should have a tensile strength of at least what the trailer's gross weight is.
Last summer I hauled a LOT of 2500 to 3000+ pound trailer loads of dirt & rock with my 982 pulling off my Cat. O 3-pt to sleeve hitch adapter. I had the frt end airborn many times even with the 50" deck attached. Not sure my 120# of frt end weights would have kept it down. But I was going slow on dry concrete for only short distances.
On fairly level ground with good traction conditions, meaning NO wet grass or weeds, preferably dry packed dirt, you should be able to pull a 2500@ trailer without a problem.
Matt Gonitzke
If you have that loader all conected right, it might take some time for it to bleed.Is your tank vented? and do you run your pump at a good RPM for the pump?This was my chance to be a smart $$s. lol
If you have that loader all conected right, it might take some time for it to bleed.Is your tank vented? and do you run your pump at a good RPM for the pump?This was my chance to be a smart $$s. lol
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
Tank is vented, pump runs 1:1 off the electric PTO, so it should be turning 3600 rpm. I should check WOT with a tach.
I think you might be right about there being air in there yet. I haven't run any of the cylinders to full extension. When I pulled the lines off to switch the ones I had backwards, the fluid was pouring out like it was under pressure. If there wasn't air in the system, I don't think it would do that. I'm going to change one leaky hose and put a pressure gauge on the 'in' port of the pump, run the cylinders to full deflection and see what happens.
Tank is vented, pump runs 1:1 off the electric PTO, so it should be turning 3600 rpm. I should check WOT with a tach.
I think you might be right about there being air in there yet. I haven't run any of the cylinders to full extension. When I pulled the lines off to switch the ones I had backwards, the fluid was pouring out like it was under pressure. If there wasn't air in the system, I don't think it would do that. I'm going to change one leaky hose and put a pressure gauge on the 'in' port of the pump, run the cylinders to full deflection and see what happens.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Update: I changed the leaky hose and put a 5000 psi gauge right at the inlet to the valve. With the tilt cylinders fully extended, the gauge barely came off the peg. I'm guessing between 75 and 125 psi. The relief valve on the control valve is supposed to be 1000 psi, and I can adjust the one on the pump. I'm going to swap out the relief valve on the control valve from the other control valve that I have (the original one...I rebuilt a spare I had and that is what is now on the tractor) and if that doesn't help, I'll try to adjust the relief valve on the pump. I really hope the pump isn't bad, as that whole front piece is pretty much designed around this pump...
Also, my dad stood in the bucket and it wouldn't lift him, and he's not much of a load.
Also, my dad stood in the bucket and it wouldn't lift him, and he's not much of a load.
MATT - Does the pump make a variable whining noise? When hyd pumps suck air they really howl.
That restricter orifice sounds really small @ 1/8" dia., but then your cylinders are smaller than I'm used to working with.
Since the oil is getting warm/hot there's something happening at the pump. Your control valve should be "Open Center", lets oil flow thru the valve when both valves are centered correct?
That restricter orifice sounds really small @ 1/8" dia., but then your cylinders are smaller than I'm used to working with.
Since the oil is getting warm/hot there's something happening at the pump. Your control valve should be "Open Center", lets oil flow thru the valve when both valves are centered correct?
