Archive through July 29, 2014

[bbranstetter]

Welcome Max!! We're glad your here.


Looks like the 122 has a problem. Its been 6 or 8 years since the head was pulled last so it was overdue for inspection. Not real sure as to why the exhaust valve got so hot but it sure looks like that's what happened. Guess I'll be ordering new valves for it.

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN - That's typical of what an exh valve would look like. When the engine is under load, the head of the exh valve is red to bright orange hot.

I'd be more concerned with what looks like oil on the top of the piston.

Replace the valves if you want, but they look fine to me.

 

[bbranstetter]

Dennis,

If you look closely at the exhaust valve there is a gap between the valve and the seat closest to the intake valve side, my picture doesn't show it very well. I had an air filter get clogged up with some crap a long time ago and could have very well caused an over heat issue but that's only a guess on my part. The motor is a long ways from new and I'm sure could use an overhaul but other than the carbon build up, has run very strong. Been trying to get time to open it up for the last two years and now finally got it done yesterday so shame on me for not getting it done sooner, I knew there was a problem going on.

 

[cjrolke]

Max

i have bought decals from maple hunter texas

they have them for all different kind od tractors and almost all of the cub models

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN - I saw that, but figured it was the angle the pic was taken at with the valve just slightly open. Warped valve would leak a LOT of compression, surprised the engine ran at all.

The best way to prevent that is to let the engine idle for a minimum of 3 to 5 minutes before shutting the engine off. That warning used to be in EVERY operator's manual for every tractor, car, truck, self-propelled combine, baler, etc. BUT I guess today they have to spend more time explaining the controls for the radio, Blue Tooth, heater & A/C, etc. so things like not shutting off a blisteringly hot engine don't matter.

I remember Dad's Super M-TA used to pop and back-fire when hot when coasted down the road in 5th gear, like when returning from the other farm a half mile away, go from wide open to low throttle and you were sure to get 3-4 Pop's that I'm surprised didn't split the muffler wide open... then if you didn't let it idle another 2-3 minutes, it would pop again and spin the engine backwards, which drives the oil pump backwards, so no oiling, hard on the T/A sprag, loads the oil bath air cleaner up with gas vapor, etc... and also would warp the valves once cooler air drifted down into the muffler & exh manifold. So much for the idea that low compression engines can't detonate, ping, etc. even on good old leaded regular gas vintage 1964.

 

[sblunier]

...I've never run an M that didn't backfire idling down off of a load.... If you did it with the muffler off (like when pushing wagons into low barns) you would get a 6" cone of flame out of the manifold extension......

 

[stanner]

Max,

http://ccspecialties.org/paintdecals.html

http://ccspecialties.org/pics/123decals.jpg

 

[hydroharry]

Doug - there are a couple other guys around here. David Calkins in Seattle and then Ed "HotRod" Lincoln a little to the south. Monroe isn't far from me but not sure I can make it due to other commitments, but I'd sure like to.

Brian - I think your whole problem is due to the bearing not fitting snuggly. It needs to be a press fit so it stays put. Your loose fit is almost certainly why you have the play. I think you're gonna find it's hard to put dimples in the wheel and it's probably gonna just bend over slightly as you try - which is all you need for the bearing to fit snuggly BUT, if you don't get the shims to get rid of the end play the bearing is just going to work itself back out. As you drive and steer the pressure between the wheel and the bearing just forces the bearing free again and opens the wheel up so the bearing slips in and out. The shims are important and will stop this from happening. As I mentioned before, this is probably the most neglected spec issue. IH really should have included it in the Operator Manual as an annual maintenance requirement.

 

[fcurrier]

Harry: Does it make a difference if the shims are on the inner or outer side of the wheel? I've been putting them on the inside.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY, BRIAN - MAN... I'm giving away ALL my secrets... any decent hardware store, and maybe even a Big Box store will have a brass shim stock assortment. Costs a few Bucks, but the Copper has been expensive lately. You can cut it with a scissors, and make a small roll or sleeve as wide as the bearing and as long as it's circumference. Then slide both the bearing AND the sleeve into the wheel, tap in lightly. You'll have to experiment to find the proper thickness of shim stock to use, you're better off with thicker material than too thin.