Archive through July 15, 2015

[jbaker]

Every IH hydro that I have had or seen with what I will assume is the factory pin, had a solid pin. Also when my local cub dealer orders me the pin it comes solid.

 

[jpatchett]

My 149 has had a 1/4" hex bit (Philips/slot)in the hub to drive shaft for the past 5-6 years, tool steel. I use the 149 to plow, till and push snow, so the bit get some higher loads on it. The hole was so weiner'd out that the pins keep falling out. I got oversized pins, but they fell out after a while. Just one of those little things you keep forgetting to fix the right way.

Jim

 

[jbaker]

Jim, Was your original drive pin at the engine hub a solid pin?

 

[wshytle]

Since we're talking about the drive shaft dowel pin I'd like some opinions on an idea. I have a pile of push rods from a Ford 2.9L and they happen to be .002 larger than a OEM dowel pin. A little sandpapering should take care of that. Wouldn't the steel in a push rod be strong enough for this application? I assume they need to be treated to a point but I also know they will bend. I haven't tried one yet but if they will work I have a lifetime supply.

Just curious...I know 1/4" grade 5 bolts work just fine too.

.

 

[tsabick]

Thanks for all the input. I'll certainly give he solid pin a try since I have new and hopefully tight components. I will report back on my result.
I like the idea of the flexible joint at both ends of the shaft and will look into it but I have some grass to mow that's calling for the Cub.
Tom

 

[jpatchett]

Jeff,

I don't know, I only had the tractor for a few years and lost the pin while mowing.

I have tried roll pins and grade 8 bolts with a nut, they both would stay in but break sooner than later.

Jim

 

[deverett]

Following recent suggestions on this site and just receiving a new drive hub and solid 1/4inch pin from Charlie I froze the pin and mildly heated the shaft at the engine end and installed the drive shaft and drive hub.I drove about 300yards stopping at my garage to air up a low tire.I left the engine idle till I put up the air hose, and found the shaft spinning in the drive hub.I shut down the engine and the pin was gone. I located the pin, removed the gas tank of my 149 for access.I drove the pin in and to hold in place I used new bolts 1/4in longer with 2 flat washers against the bolt head then used another nut run up against the washers, and then installed the the bolts across from each in line with the pin. That kept the pin centered with about .030inch of movement room for the pin to float but not come out. That should hold for a few years.

 

[lpalma]

dip them pins in muriatic acid to get them rusty,then drive them in,that's how I do it.I like the longer bolts parallel to the pin idea though.

 

[sblunier]

Or......you can just put a stainless steel hose clamp around the coupler and keep that pin in there with a few quick twists of the nut driver......always worked for me.....

And...they are solid dowel pins from the factory.

 

[jbowman]

I had problems with my old 149 throwing the pin out all the time until I took a roll pin put it in and then put a small bolt and nut thru it to keep it from coming out never had a problem with it after that

 

[hydroharry]

Myron B - I have no trouble reading my TC-157, Revision No. 25, Issued 3-'92. I checked both the 149 listing and the 169 listing. Both show the diagram item no. 3 to be Part No. IH-19837-R1, Pin, 1/4 x 1-1/2, Dowel, and Qty 1.

I only ever had trouble with one of these pins, and I think it was more slippery than loose, so I like Lewis Do-Dah's idea of getting it a little rusty. Back when I fixed mine I just added a few flattening hits on each end of the pin after it was installed. It had some appearance of being rounded over and mis-shapen. It never came out after that.

 

[mhomrighausen]

BOTH spirol and the solid pins came with the older Cub Cadets. In years past depending on the partsman at the same dealership, I'd get either the spirol or the solid pin. And I do remember the 125 that my ex and I bought used had the OEM spirol pin in it until it finally failed when a niece was mowing lawn. Only thing I had at the time to replace it was a 1/4" grade 5 bolt. From experience once the hole in the shaft begins to get bigger and the hub on the engine develops the groove then not even a grade 8 bolt will hold. That is on a twelve horse 125 Cub Cadet. Now about five years ago the OEM pin broke on the 782D and the only thing I had around at the time was a 1/4" grade 8 bolt. It still hasn't broken.

As expressed in the past one can get some of those hardware store tapered pins and drive them in and they seem to hold up fairly well.

Summing up.... I have to agree with Myron B. on the spirol pin being OEM from all the driveshafts on parted hydros at a friend's place and the hydros that I've bought and found new homes for. I don't recommend welding the driveshaft to the hub. As Rockie would tell Bullwinkle, "That trick never works."

Everyone have a safe and wonderful day. Off to work.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marlin, all, every Hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet I have worked on, including both my 125s had a solid "dowel" pin on the engine end and a Spirol (coiled roll) pin on the Hydro input shaft end. I have never seen a Spirol pin on the engine end.

 

[dvogtvpe]

I had a 149 with a nail bent over. what year did they use those?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don,

 

[jbaker]

every Hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet I have owned or worked on had a solid "dowel" pin on the engine end and a Spirol (coiled roll) pin on the Hydro input shaft end. I have never seen a Spirol pin on the engine end. unless added by a PO

 

[lpalma]

Good one Don, I have had a few using cotter pins on both ends of the shaft.

The same dowel pin also used in the early hydro controls in the dash.

 

[dvogtvpe]

I swear every tractor I get from Iowa has bent nails instead of cotter pins. hardware stores must not keep cotter pins in stock

 

[stanner]

no more dowel pins for me, although I might be trading one issue for another...

 

[jbaker]

Scott, that's the best route to take