Heres another thought for hard starting. Upgrade the battery cables. On 6volt systems you have to use 00 gauge cable or it will never turn over fast. By looking at the cables on a cub, upgrading to the size of cable a 12 volt car uses is bound to be an improvement. Going up to 6 volt cable could be even better.
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Archive through January 23, 2005
- Thread starter bwatson
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William Decker,
I had the casting on my QA-36A get worn down to the needle bearings.
The two adjustment bolts for the chain tention have an affect on how the small sprocket tracks, inline or not with the auger sprocket and chain. This stituation here reminds me of a belt sander, the ajustment knob controls the tracking of the sanding belt. The main point is that the sprocket between the casting slightly tracks to one side or the other due to the tentioning bolts. When thightening the chain make sure the small sprocket is in-line with the auger sprocket and tentioning bolts have relativly equal torque applied. This assumes that the drive components here mentioned are in good shape.
Brass or Bronze thrust bearings (TB) between the sprocket and casting will go a long way to reduce wear on the casting.
The new casting I got did not have space for TB at first, but after the first season I was able to squeeze one in on the more worn side of the casting,2nd season other side and thicker TB as needed. Must leave a gap for grease, so it can't be tight.
Everyone has there opinion on grease, but I use fully synthetic in this location. Too much grease makes a mess, not enough, well you know.
I had the casting on my QA-36A get worn down to the needle bearings.
The two adjustment bolts for the chain tention have an affect on how the small sprocket tracks, inline or not with the auger sprocket and chain. This stituation here reminds me of a belt sander, the ajustment knob controls the tracking of the sanding belt. The main point is that the sprocket between the casting slightly tracks to one side or the other due to the tentioning bolts. When thightening the chain make sure the small sprocket is in-line with the auger sprocket and tentioning bolts have relativly equal torque applied. This assumes that the drive components here mentioned are in good shape.
Brass or Bronze thrust bearings (TB) between the sprocket and casting will go a long way to reduce wear on the casting.
The new casting I got did not have space for TB at first, but after the first season I was able to squeeze one in on the more worn side of the casting,2nd season other side and thicker TB as needed. Must leave a gap for grease, so it can't be tight.
Everyone has there opinion on grease, but I use fully synthetic in this location. Too much grease makes a mess, not enough, well you know.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Earl,
That thrower came like that, it is an older design for the narrow frame machines. i see from you picture, that someone modified it to fit your wide frame 1x9 machine, just like i did. I have the same complaint as you of the discharge pattern. You'll notice that the chute, turned to the left or right, will hit your grille when you lift the blower.
Wyatt,
Lighting hit my house 10 years ago and the quick action of the fire dept saved most of it, so, cleaning all of the hydrants in the neighborhood is the least i can do!!
That thrower came like that, it is an older design for the narrow frame machines. i see from you picture, that someone modified it to fit your wide frame 1x9 machine, just like i did. I have the same complaint as you of the discharge pattern. You'll notice that the chute, turned to the left or right, will hit your grille when you lift the blower.
Wyatt,
Lighting hit my house 10 years ago and the quick action of the fire dept saved most of it, so, cleaning all of the hydrants in the neighborhood is the least i can do!!
OK all you snow thrower upgrade guru's out there.
<font color="ff0000">DO NOT USE A Die cast zinc pulley!!!</font>
It's gotta be <font color="ff0000">CAST IRON!</font>
And it has to be lined up with the PTO pulley.
And don't go below 3" OD.
Here's a pic of one I got emailed me today.
(Message edited by cproctor on January 23, 2005)
<font color="ff0000">DO NOT USE A Die cast zinc pulley!!!</font>
It's gotta be <font color="ff0000">CAST IRON!</font>
And it has to be lined up with the PTO pulley.
And don't go below 3" OD.
Here's a pic of one I got emailed me today.
(Message edited by cproctor on January 23, 2005)
Oh baby- yeah, Zinc isn't good for anything above fractional-horsepower... rubber cuts zinc like nothin'...
That one there is about set to start shedding parts at high speed. I get nervous with zinc, aluminum, and pot-metal pullies on high-speed tools (grinders, buffers,etc) in my shop- they're oftentimes more dangerous than the little specks of metal coming off what I'm grinding... we at least EXPECT fraggies to come off our workpieces... we assume the tools will stay together, though...
That one there is about set to start shedding parts at high speed. I get nervous with zinc, aluminum, and pot-metal pullies on high-speed tools (grinders, buffers,etc) in my shop- they're oftentimes more dangerous than the little specks of metal coming off what I'm grinding... we at least EXPECT fraggies to come off our workpieces... we assume the tools will stay together, though...
Johnny- that sounds like a REAL sportscar there... havin' dual batteries over the axle means you'll actually get to stick to the road a little more with the fun-pedal depressed a bit to 'religously'..
Brian- My little boat has a pretty viscious Chevy inline six... LOTS of compression, and dual-batteries. I run 2/0 marine battery cable for both, and the cables are only 2' (grounds) and 3.5' (each positive to battery switch) and a 3' cable to the switch. Changed all my Jeeps over to 2/0 for ground and power, too.
I think the stock IHCC cables are #6, I used #2, and my grounds are direct to the engine-block. I'm pretty certain that the slow-cranking problem, however, is a combination of two things- first being cold HyTran, second being enough wear in the end-bushing of the starter-generator to cause one of the brushes to not seat properly.
By not seating against the commutator, it doesn't matter HOW much current I make available at the battery, or at the S/G terminal, the SG's motoring-mode (a series-wound configuration) will be current-limited in both field and armature, by the brushes. When I hook on a 12v booster battery DIRECT to the SG with 3' of 2/0 jumper cables, it doesn't turn any faster than when cranking with the on-board battery... it'll just crank slow for LONGER. When I series two 12's, it kicks a$$ and takes names.
I'll be opening up this SG in a day or so- I'll be able to see for sure then!
Brian- My little boat has a pretty viscious Chevy inline six... LOTS of compression, and dual-batteries. I run 2/0 marine battery cable for both, and the cables are only 2' (grounds) and 3.5' (each positive to battery switch) and a 3' cable to the switch. Changed all my Jeeps over to 2/0 for ground and power, too.
I think the stock IHCC cables are #6, I used #2, and my grounds are direct to the engine-block. I'm pretty certain that the slow-cranking problem, however, is a combination of two things- first being cold HyTran, second being enough wear in the end-bushing of the starter-generator to cause one of the brushes to not seat properly.
By not seating against the commutator, it doesn't matter HOW much current I make available at the battery, or at the S/G terminal, the SG's motoring-mode (a series-wound configuration) will be current-limited in both field and armature, by the brushes. When I hook on a 12v booster battery DIRECT to the SG with 3' of 2/0 jumper cables, it doesn't turn any faster than when cranking with the on-board battery... it'll just crank slow for LONGER. When I series two 12's, it kicks a$$ and takes names.
I'll be opening up this SG in a day or so- I'll be able to see for sure then!
QA snowthrower modification history and those that deserve the credit per my best recollection:
Undersized pulley: I believe it was Ken Updike that came up with this mod.
Slip-Plate coating: I believe the can of Slip-Plate has "snowblowers" under it's list of uses. I know the can of "Graphite Paint" that I got from Fleet Farm says it. I first heard of Slip-Plate and the like products from Bryan McMeen after he harrassed me for my QA42 being so rusty.
)
Undersized pulley: I believe it was Ken Updike that came up with this mod.
Slip-Plate coating: I believe the can of Slip-Plate has "snowblowers" under it's list of uses. I know the can of "Graphite Paint" that I got from Fleet Farm says it. I first heard of Slip-Plate and the like products from Bryan McMeen after he harrassed me for my QA42 being so rusty.
)
W
wrdecker
Guest
Digger, That zinc pulley looks like it's from the appliance repair section, and a lot smaller than 3"! I bet it was spinning that auger to beat heck for a little while, though!!!
W
wrdecker
Guest
Is Fleet Farm one of the reincarnations of the Old Central Tractor/Quality Farm and Fleet like TSC (Tractor Suppl Co.) is? We have one locally, I called them and asked about graphite paint and got a blank stare I could see all the way through the phone lines...Not many country folks working there, a lot of college kids.
Just out of curiousity-
No smaller than 3" OD pulley? Is it a limitation of the belt section where less than 3" the belt would self-destruct from the small diam pulley?
I should dig out my Gates catalog and figure out what the design life of that belt setup for stock and modified. . . . . anyone measure the center-center distance between the PTO pulley and the thrower's pulley?
No smaller than 3" OD pulley? Is it a limitation of the belt section where less than 3" the belt would self-destruct from the small diam pulley?
I should dig out my Gates catalog and figure out what the design life of that belt setup for stock and modified. . . . . anyone measure the center-center distance between the PTO pulley and the thrower's pulley?
Bryan, you harrass? Yes, but it worked for the best in this situation as it prompted me to completely refurbish my QA42! Did I ever thank you? ) I'll see if I can find that equation.
Mill's Fleet Farms are in parts of Wisconsin and Minnesota, not the same as TSC or Farm & Fleet.
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on January 24, 2005)
) I'll see if I can find that equation. Mill's Fleet Farms are in parts of Wisconsin and Minnesota, not the same as TSC or Farm & Fleet.
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on January 24, 2005)
Earl L., on your snowthrower discharge chute, that is the older style, if you tilt the upper section all the way back it'll work just fine.
Bryan, I had hoped I had saved that in a .txt file but no luck finding it, sorry. (
(
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Bryan,
I ran the numbers once on the rotor speed for a stock QA and a "hot" QA.
IIRC, it's basically 1:1 into the the gearbox (clutch sheave and stock sheave are both right around 4 or 4.5 inches)....gear box is (again IIRC) 3:2 and then the final chain drive sprocket reduction (guessing at +/- 2.5:1).
Roughly that makes a stock auger spin in the neighborhood of 1000 rpm.......+/-1300-1400 rpm with a step up pulley of +/-3"
I ran the numbers once on the rotor speed for a stock QA and a "hot" QA.
IIRC, it's basically 1:1 into the the gearbox (clutch sheave and stock sheave are both right around 4 or 4.5 inches)....gear box is (again IIRC) 3:2 and then the final chain drive sprocket reduction (guessing at +/- 2.5:1).
Roughly that makes a stock auger spin in the neighborhood of 1000 rpm.......+/-1300-1400 rpm with a step up pulley of +/-3"
Wyatt,
ROTFLAO!! What a poetic phrase, "Glorious display of twisted steel". I can see it now, someone standing in front of their snow thrower/blower, hat in hand, scratching his head with a odd look on his face, asking himself "Now how the hell did that happen"
ROTFLAO!! What a poetic phrase, "Glorious display of twisted steel". I can see it now, someone standing in front of their snow thrower/blower, hat in hand, scratching his head with a odd look on his face, asking himself "Now how the hell did that happen"
W
wrdecker
Guest
I just checked the Lakewood catalog, they don't list any BlowProof blankets under Cub Cadet....Although the one wrapped around my old B & M Torqueflite on the straightline car might be adaptable......
