can anyone post/send picture of snow plow lift rod bracket for use on 782. The bracket I have has 1/2" hole and my lift rod is 5/8". The required bracket must also move the attachment hole forward. Also would like to know where to get correct bracket. thanks
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Archive through January 19, 2011
- Thread starter dhess
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Don P.
I just went through the same thing you are experiencing with my cc 125. For two good ways to remove the steering wheel, go to the FAQ section of this forum near the top of the page and go to FAQ # 13. Also, go to the sponsor section at the top of the Forum page and click on the CC Specialties link. Then go to the FAQ section there. FAQ 18 b gives an alternate method using an air hammer. I used this method after an overnight soaking with penetrating oil, and my steering wheel came right off. There was within the last week, another method shown with pictures posted on this forum using a puller in conjunction with a 2x4. My last comment would be to use caution when hammering on the steering column nut to free your steering wheel. Doing so can damage the bearings lower down in the steering box, and the adjusting nut at the the bottom of the steering box.
I just went through the same thing you are experiencing with my cc 125. For two good ways to remove the steering wheel, go to the FAQ section of this forum near the top of the page and go to FAQ # 13. Also, go to the sponsor section at the top of the Forum page and click on the CC Specialties link. Then go to the FAQ section there. FAQ 18 b gives an alternate method using an air hammer. I used this method after an overnight soaking with penetrating oil, and my steering wheel came right off. There was within the last week, another method shown with pictures posted on this forum using a puller in conjunction with a 2x4. My last comment would be to use caution when hammering on the steering column nut to free your steering wheel. Doing so can damage the bearings lower down in the steering box, and the adjusting nut at the the bottom of the steering box.
mgwin
Well-known member
Don P.,
After removing the nut, spray the wheel with PB blaster once for three days. Then let it sit for several more days.(the longer, the better)
Back around October someone mentioned to take a fine thread bolt and a fine thread nut (5/8" I think...same threads as the steering nut). Screw the bolt into the nut a little and then screw that onto the steering shaft leaving some space between the nut and steering wheel. Sit on the tractor and push up on the wheel with the top of your legs. At the same time hit the bolt with a hammer and it should pop the wheel loose. I did this on a rusty 100 steering wheel after letting it sit for about 6 weeks. If it wasn't for the nut, the wheel would have jumped probably 3ft in the air!
After removing the nut, spray the wheel with PB blaster once for three days. Then let it sit for several more days.(the longer, the better)
Back around October someone mentioned to take a fine thread bolt and a fine thread nut (5/8" I think...same threads as the steering nut). Screw the bolt into the nut a little and then screw that onto the steering shaft leaving some space between the nut and steering wheel. Sit on the tractor and push up on the wheel with the top of your legs. At the same time hit the bolt with a hammer and it should pop the wheel loose. I did this on a rusty 100 steering wheel after letting it sit for about 6 weeks. If it wasn't for the nut, the wheel would have jumped probably 3ft in the air!
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Don Pflueger:
You're not as new as you think! Are we talking about the 125 that you got about a year and a half ago?
I digress. Your post caught my eye because I can't imagine the upper bushing of your steering column causing that much force to turn the wheel. If it were me, I'd jack up the front end so the tires weren't touching and see/feel how things worked then. If it still felt the same and I thought the problem was the upper bushing I'd dribble some oil down onto it. My ....02 says it's not the upper bushing.
You're not as new as you think! Are we talking about the 125 that you got about a year and a half ago?
I digress. Your post caught my eye because I can't imagine the upper bushing of your steering column causing that much force to turn the wheel. If it were me, I'd jack up the front end so the tires weren't touching and see/feel how things worked then. If it still felt the same and I thought the problem was the upper bushing I'd dribble some oil down onto it. My ....02 says it's not the upper bushing.
I see i`am not the only poor soul that is having a problem getting the steering wheel of there 125. I did buy a puller today and will drill a hole in a piece of wood and use the idea that was posted by Kraig that Matt G did on his Red tractor. Thanks I just hate to beat on these old tractors,there has to be a better way of doing the steering wheel removal job. I did my 149 steering box two years ago and just for fun today took the wheel of with no pounding, just a light tap and it was off. It still had a lot of never seize on it from when I installed it.
don pflueger (Dpflueger)
(it makes a squealing and grinding sound when turned to the right. turns fine to the left)
I think the bottom bearing is shot in your steering box . correct me if i`am wrong but if I turn the steering wheel to the left the worm on the shaft would put pressure on the top bearing in the box. If I turned the wheel to the right this would put pressure on the bottom bearing above the plug. If I was you I would remove the plug and check that bearing and replace it. There would be no need to remove the steering wheel now. I would later get a puller and do a proper rebuild, but for now it might not be needed. I hope this all make sense.
don pflueger (Dpflueger)
(it makes a squealing and grinding sound when turned to the right. turns fine to the left)
I think the bottom bearing is shot in your steering box . correct me if i`am wrong but if I turn the steering wheel to the left the worm on the shaft would put pressure on the top bearing in the box. If I turned the wheel to the right this would put pressure on the bottom bearing above the plug. If I was you I would remove the plug and check that bearing and replace it. There would be no need to remove the steering wheel now. I would later get a puller and do a proper rebuild, but for now it might not be needed. I hope this all make sense.
Richard Tunison
From what I see in your picture that 149 is not rusty.Some where I read where brass could be used to help fill in a hole stick welding.just hold it under the hole and the weld won`t stick to the brass but will fill the hole . I just wonder if a brass punch in the hole would control the weld and fill the hole. would be a lot less work to repair those engine mount holes. Dennis F ? did I read that in one of your 4000 plus posts ?
From what I see in your picture that 149 is not rusty.Some where I read where brass could be used to help fill in a hole stick welding.just hold it under the hole and the weld won`t stick to the brass but will fill the hole . I just wonder if a brass punch in the hole would control the weld and fill the hole. would be a lot less work to repair those engine mount holes. Dennis F ? did I read that in one of your 4000 plus posts ?
mgwin
Well-known member
Donald T.,
Frank Clark found what I was talking about. FAQ #13. IT WORKS without any damage to anything. And it's inexpensive too.
Attaboy Dave!
Frank Clark found what I was talking about. FAQ #13. IT WORKS without any damage to anything. And it's inexpensive too.
Attaboy Dave!
Michael Smith
I think Charlie is sending me one of those brackets to repair my 149. The pin in mine is gone and the lift handle has a lot of play. Do you see how that new bracket is installed ? Looks to me like the lift rod will have to be removed to slide it through the two holes on the new bracket and a bolt ,nut and washers to pinch it tight fast to the lift shaft. I see the bracket will have to be moved more center on the tractor to get everything aligned . Have you installed it yet?
I think Charlie is sending me one of those brackets to repair my 149. The pin in mine is gone and the lift handle has a lot of play. Do you see how that new bracket is installed ? Looks to me like the lift rod will have to be removed to slide it through the two holes on the new bracket and a bolt ,nut and washers to pinch it tight fast to the lift shaft. I see the bracket will have to be moved more center on the tractor to get everything aligned . Have you installed it yet?
fcurrier
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Don: You can't hurt those steering box bearings when you use the bolt/fine nut "puller" system. You gotta try this to believe it. The puller is you, with your left hand putting upward pressure on the bottom of the steering wheel. With your right hand (after the bolt/nut tool is attached) you use your right hand to tap on (or whack as hard as your left hand allows) on the bolt. I bought one off ebay a few years ago and so help me I had to ask the seller to explain to me how it worked. He did, I bought it, and have never been sorry. The trick is to take the original nut that holds the steering wheel off, then put it back on, but not tight - leave a couple (few) threads. Then thread your nut/bolt tool onto the steering column, tap on it while holding up on the underneath of the wheel itself, and when it moves (it will) loosen the original nut and keep tapping. It was hard for me to visualize how it worked until I tried it, but it hasn't failed, yet.
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
There was two guys in my shop last night and we attempted to remove the wheel with a fine threaded bolt and nut. With those two guys holding up on the wheel and me with the bfh, No go it won`t come off. At one point they lifted the 125 clear of the stand I had the rear frame sitting on. I will drill out and make that wood block in the am. I have soaked this wheel with acetone and ever other kind of penetrate to remove the rust. I`ll get er done I won`t give up lol.
There was two guys in my shop last night and we attempted to remove the wheel with a fine threaded bolt and nut. With those two guys holding up on the wheel and me with the bfh, No go it won`t come off. At one point they lifted the 125 clear of the stand I had the rear frame sitting on. I will drill out and make that wood block in the am. I have soaked this wheel with acetone and ever other kind of penetrate to remove the rust. I`ll get er done I won`t give up lol.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Frank-
I don't think I've ever had a steering wheel that could be removed by hitting the bolt with my hand. And yes, the lower race will be destroyed if you hit the head of the bolt too hard with a hammer.
I don't think I've ever had a steering wheel that could be removed by hitting the bolt with my hand. And yes, the lower race will be destroyed if you hit the head of the bolt too hard with a hammer.
Don T.
Actually installing the lift control rod into the new linkage is very simple. The new linkage is too long and will not line up with the pin. I just got done straightening the new piece out and cutting it to fit like the 169 piece.
I will drill the 3/16 hole get it on in the morning since we are expected to get 3 to 6 inches of snow starting at noon and my QA 42A is hooked up to it.
Actually installing the lift control rod into the new linkage is very simple. The new linkage is too long and will not line up with the pin. I just got done straightening the new piece out and cutting it to fit like the 169 piece.
Michael Smith
Cool, I have to do that repair when my order gets here. I think that repair bracket was made for a Q L tractor and might be a little different. Its got to be easier that trying to replace that small pin on my 149 lift control rod. Thanks Don T
Cool, I have to do that repair when my order gets here. I think that repair bracket was made for a Q L tractor and might be a little different. Its got to be easier that trying to replace that small pin on my 149 lift control rod. Thanks Don T
Randy, nice 1600! And you modded decal to, nice!
Ben, I think a winch and boom are on my short list. Maybe a summer project this year. Just have to figure out how to attach one were it can be fairly easily removable since I dont have enough tractors to have one only dedicated to such use. Or get a dedicated setup.
Wayne and Matt, yeah I am sure my clutch needs alot more than just a new spring. It often makes quite a racket whether in gear or not, unless I pull up on the pedal. Also one of the plates is cracked around the pin. I'll definately go with a heavier spring and collar but I'm going to be replacing other parts too, and if I have to replace them anyhow I might just get some upgraded replacements. I'm willing to spend a little extra for a bullet proof setup, I just dont want the pedal too hard to push (I dont mind if its a bit harder, just dont want to end up with one calf twice the size of my other in one summer).
Ben, I think a winch and boom are on my short list. Maybe a summer project this year. Just have to figure out how to attach one were it can be fairly easily removable since I dont have enough tractors to have one only dedicated to such use. Or get a dedicated setup.
Wayne and Matt, yeah I am sure my clutch needs alot more than just a new spring. It often makes quite a racket whether in gear or not, unless I pull up on the pedal. Also one of the plates is cracked around the pin. I'll definately go with a heavier spring and collar but I'm going to be replacing other parts too, and if I have to replace them anyhow I might just get some upgraded replacements. I'm willing to spend a little extra for a bullet proof setup, I just dont want the pedal too hard to push (I dont mind if its a bit harder, just dont want to end up with one calf twice the size of my other in one summer).
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Ben-
That rear "crane" looks neat, but WOW that's a lot of weight and leverage to hang off the rear end with just a couple bolts!
That rear "crane" looks neat, but WOW that's a lot of weight and leverage to hang off the rear end with just a couple bolts!
Art.
Looking at Ben's photos, I see at least 6 bolts holding on the crane and 2 chains to help support the boom.
Looks stout enough to me.
A moldboard plow is only held on useing 3 bolts and I have not seen any break out from all the abuse plowing does to a tractor.
F.W.I.W.
Looking at Ben's photos, I see at least 6 bolts holding on the crane and 2 chains to help support the boom.
Looks stout enough to me.
A moldboard plow is only held on useing 3 bolts and I have not seen any break out from all the abuse plowing does to a tractor.
F.W.I.W.
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