Archive through January 19, 2011

[kmcconaughey]

Todd, check the grounds between the starter/generator and the frame. You might want to add a heavy wire from the starter/generator mounting bracket directly to the negative terminal on the battery. Be sure to make sure there's no paint preventing a good connection. I bought my magnetic heater from Fleet Farm. You should be able to find one at an auto parts store or TSC or online.

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Finally got to take a look and try and find out what the issue was with my hydro. First checked all linkage for wear and bindage. All looked good. Decided to do easiest fix first and change fluid/filter! After that everything all right with hydro. My guess a blockage in filter as fluid looked good. Learned alot about my hydro. Got her fixed just in time. We got 4 inches of snow here and was able to push snow this am without any issues! This site is PRICELESS! Thanks!

 

[stanner]

Todd I,
you can find them at Tractor supply (or its clones), Harbor Freight, NAPA, and Northern Tool..

Yor starter may have issues, such as brushes on the way out, or loose wires under the studs... try jumping to the terminal itself on the s/g, and groung the jumper cable to the engine block... It should turn over...

Terrry,

 

[digger]

Wayne & Kraig,
Personally I don't and would not recommend using the lock out clip. There's to much of a chance of stripping the main drive gear from the sudden shock of hitting something more solid that it is. It's float/static or nothing for me.

 

[tillenden]

It has to be in the ignition system. I did get it to turn over faster by using my truck, so maybe my battery charger is bad, it is brand new though. I jumped it right to the starter and it cranked faster than ever, still would not start. Dumped gas directly into the cylinder, nothing. That is all telling me the spark is weak.

I guess now I start replacing electrical stuff.

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Charlie-

I've seen the price of that gear so I will just leave the clip off. I assume you're speaking of the spiroid gear.

The 147 must be sort of rare among our readers. I'd love to speak with someone with experience rebuilding these lifts. The manual shows plenty but it's nice to have input from experience like we have on so many other repair matters here.

Thanks again....Wayne

 

[stanner]

Todd,
Does it sneeze or fire at all? Could be a sheared or partially sheared keyway... chack the timing via timing marks or a light.. I assume you have compression... try a new plug, coil, and wire..

 

[afoes]

Thanks for the help Dennis and Kraig.

 

[blitka]

Tristan, this setup slides into my receiver hitch mounted on tractor , held in with a hitch pin. The two chains are bolted through holes on the frame. I can have it off in two minutes if I need to, but I also have a hitch for my wagon if I need it without removing the boom. It took me all of about two hours to make.

 

[mgonitzke]

Scott/Todd-

A sheared flywheel key is not only extremely uncommon in Kohlers (in fact, I've never heard of a K-series shearing a flywheel key), and two, if it started fine before and the flywheel key sheared, and no one touched the timing, it wouldn't matter because the points are run off of the cam and have nothing to do with the flywheel, other than the timing marks.