RayF
Well-known member
This was the last project I started to build for my 108, before the Camshaft broke way back in 2008.
I wanted to add a 3-point hitch, so I could pull around a garden cart, utility trailer, and my boat. I designed and built this, taking cues from an OEM type sleeve hitch.
I had some nice steel in my stock to build it with. I changed the design a few times, when I wasn't getting the lift and versatility I wanted.
I began by fabricating a "copy" of the original sleeve hitch and lifting rod. It was made from some thick-wall square tubing, and thick wall round tube inserted inside. It's probably waaaay overbuilt, but it's what I had handy.
Here, I built the lower pivot bracket and arms. There are 3 holes for height-adjustment, and the wide arms are parallel to the ground when at resting position. I also built (2) upper lifting arms, but they limited the lifting height, so I redesigned them and ended up using only (1) mounted lower on the rear axle cover.
Here is the redesigned upper arm (more lift), and Pivot-plate for the lower arms. The Pivot Plate allows the hitches to remain parallel to the ground throughout the lifting range.
My original plan was to mount a square receiver tube- so I could use a trailer ball style insert. I likely will not add that, and just drill and mount an 1 7/8" ball.
That was as far as I got in 2008, so I finished it up at the shop today (only 12 years later) . I built a lifting sleeve and chains to go over the lifting rod. The lifting chains are asymmetrical, so I can install it in either direction- to change the lifting geometry. I also moved the original hitch-plate to the new pivot-plate.
Total lifting range is 10" (8" from the ground to 18" lifted height). It can go to 22", by slipping the sleeve further out on the Rod, and locking it in place with the lock-bolt. This takes up the little bit of slack in the chains at rest. It can lift until the upper arm hits the body. At full lift, I (all 196#) was able to stand on the pivot plate. I bounced a bit -and it was strong and stable.
I wanted to add a 3-point hitch, so I could pull around a garden cart, utility trailer, and my boat. I designed and built this, taking cues from an OEM type sleeve hitch.
I had some nice steel in my stock to build it with. I changed the design a few times, when I wasn't getting the lift and versatility I wanted.
I began by fabricating a "copy" of the original sleeve hitch and lifting rod. It was made from some thick-wall square tubing, and thick wall round tube inserted inside. It's probably waaaay overbuilt, but it's what I had handy.
Here, I built the lower pivot bracket and arms. There are 3 holes for height-adjustment, and the wide arms are parallel to the ground when at resting position. I also built (2) upper lifting arms, but they limited the lifting height, so I redesigned them and ended up using only (1) mounted lower on the rear axle cover.
Here is the redesigned upper arm (more lift), and Pivot-plate for the lower arms. The Pivot Plate allows the hitches to remain parallel to the ground throughout the lifting range.
My original plan was to mount a square receiver tube- so I could use a trailer ball style insert. I likely will not add that, and just drill and mount an 1 7/8" ball.
That was as far as I got in 2008, so I finished it up at the shop today (only 12 years later) . I built a lifting sleeve and chains to go over the lifting rod. The lifting chains are asymmetrical, so I can install it in either direction- to change the lifting geometry. I also moved the original hitch-plate to the new pivot-plate.
Total lifting range is 10" (8" from the ground to 18" lifted height). It can go to 22", by slipping the sleeve further out on the Rod, and locking it in place with the lock-bolt. This takes up the little bit of slack in the chains at rest. It can lift until the upper arm hits the body. At full lift, I (all 196#) was able to stand on the pivot plate. I bounced a bit -and it was strong and stable.
