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Archive through January 19, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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frank currier,
yes that is me. i posted as a new member because i had only made one or two posts back then and none since. so i consider myself still a relatively new member. anyway, i have tried all the methods mentioned. i used to work at a mower shop for 17 years so i'm pretty knowledgeable on how to do these repairs. but we were not a cub dealer so we saw very few of these tractors. and this one has me stumped.
the noise is definetly coming from up top where there should be a bearing. i've laid under the tractor and had someone turn the wheel while i listened to everything. and while underneath, the noise radiates down from the top.
one of my biggest concerns is when i remove the nut, it looks like there is a thick washer on the shaft that may be threaded too. i don't know if it is actually some sort of washer, lock collar, or just part of the hub. it is very tight around the shaft. by that i mean it looks like it is threaded to the shaft. but you can't grab it with channel locks or anything, and i tried a chisel to spin it off with no luck either.
at this point what i seriously need is a parts breakdown to see what i'm dealing with. i've soaked this thing down with a penetrating oil called chain and cable fluid which is about 10x better than pb blaster. i know this because my brother in law manages the factory that makes it and pb blaster. but even that is not helping.
 
Number 2 is probably just a plastic/nylon bushing.
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Don at the top of this page is a parts breakdown. The breakdown will show you about all you will want to know about your tractor. Also you can get any parts you need from the sponsors.
Sounds like someone used a front wheel bearing in plase of the plastic bushing at the top of the steering box tube. If so it may have rusted up so bad it is offering to much resistance to the shaft. Hope that makes sense.
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

Morning Frank, headed to the shop with
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and will get the steering wheel off today. I see we are getting some snow for me to play in lol. The chains won`t be used on the paved drive again,what a mess I made of the drive way.I think the 450 will work without chains if there is no ice under the snow.my ATV and blade will work also.I did get fluid for the 125 rear end yesterday and can now repair the trunnion and replace the back cover and move on to some sanding,I hate sanding in my shop for the mess it makes over my tools and I don`t think it does the confuser any good also. Have great day !
 
Do the engines in our cubs actually turn backwards from everyone else or is the term ccw rotation com from the rotation of the end we get our power from?
 
They turn the same direction, but the CC engines are mounted backwards compared to other brands.
 
frank, thank you very much for the pic. that is a huge help. not sure why i couldn't find that anywhere. thanks again.
 
Snowthrower/chain tensioner 101 questions after searching archives for info/pictures: QA42A I had new needle bearings pressed in sprocket mount bracket at a IH dealership. They pressed both bearings in flush into the bracket. Is that correct? It would seam so, however the old outer bearing, appeared from the wear on the inside of the sprocket, that it was inward about an 1/8 inch or so. I re assembled. now the outer needle bearing has walked outward 2 times, almost out completely the first time. I have two thoughts, the bracket is either warn and needs replaced, or I placed the washer/shim in the wrong posistion. Should the washer be on the outside of the bracket on the drive shaft side, or between the sprocket and the mount? It didnt appear that it was on the sprocket side. any pics/advise appreciated.
 
Tom H., yes, Tony W. did have a log hauler for behind his Cub. I looked for it a bit the other day through my archives but have not found the photos of it yet. Been busy at work and at home.

Wayne, is this what you are looking for?

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Ahhh... 12"+ of fresh snow this morning. I had to plow my entire driveway and street to get to the office today. (yeah, I'm working hard right now.) I'm kicking myself for not having a blower now. But at a minimum I'm going keep an eye out for a wider plow. When it's angled the snow doesn't even clear the front tire.

The 782 needed a little jump to kick over but after 10 minutes of warm up, it was out to play. Sorry no picutures... But it was really fun. I had to put 100# of wieght and a cinder block on the seat for traction. And the stupid cinder block torn a crack in my seat
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But it's not an IH anyways, so once it get to bad I'll upgrade to a real mans seat.

Let it snow! let it snow! let it snow.
 
Kraig-

That's the pic but the locking clip isn't shown. I learned from Charlies store the clip allows down pressure but I don't yet understand how it works. I'm assuming (dangerous) that if you don't need down pressure then just leave the clip off. I didn't get the clip with the batch of parts that came with the 147 but I found one in my cub parts. The mamnual just doesn't speak of it much.
I sent you an email on this subject.

Thanks.....Wayne
 
I have a couple questions on the chain for a QA42A Thrower.

My chain broke. It appears these chains do not have a master link in them. Can I simnply repair this chain with a master link? Will it hold up over time?

From the best I can tell,this is number 40 roller chain?

Is there anything I could have done to prevent the cahin from breaking? When it broke, I was throwing about 18" of fresh powder on a concrete slab. It just went. The chain just broke at one of the side links. I had sprayed the cahin with a motorcycle chain lube.

Also, my 149 will not start. With it being colder out, it does not appear the starter is cranking fast enough to get it going. One of the head bolts is broken right by the exhaust valve. I have even dumped fuel in the cylinder to see if it fires and no luck. I do have a good spark. The tractor ran fine over the summer. My 128 turns over 2-3 times faster and fires right up. I would really like to get this tractor going so I don't have to keep switching the blade and thrower on the 128. Give me some ideas. I have considered switching starters to see if that solves the issue.
 
I have noticed on some implement lift handles it has a wire bail that allows for the button to be held down. I would like to buy one for my 582, but this type of item is not listed in the parts look up. Where would I look to find one that would fit a 582 implement lift handle?
 
Todd,

A master link will work fine. Nothing you can do about fatigue, sometimes things just wear out. You were right to lube it up on a regular basis, keep doing that to prolong the rest of the chain.

As for the 149; I would suspect a low battery for the slow turning. Just becuase you have spark when checking the plug, there my not be enough energy to fire it under the compression of the cylinder. I would try switching batteries before switching starters. (or just jump it the 128 or a car)

Arvin, sorry buddy. No advice, but I'll keep an eye on your replies. I'd like to have one for my 128.
 
Wayne, I don't have any electric lifts and I don't know how the clip works. Charlie has at least one 147 perhaps he can take some photos and give a brief tutorial on it's use.
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Charlie, tag you're it.
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ARVIN - Your 582 must be an early one. I just checked the parts look-up above and there's no implement float mechanism on those tractors. I'd look at installing the later vintage lift lever. It does have a float pin.

The little wire bail you mentioned IMHO isn't really that user-friendly. I have a CC #70 with that bail, spent countless hours on that tractor after Dad bought it new in 1965. I bought a CC #72 used in 1981 and I prefer that style float lock MUCH more. But the design of the later 582 float looks even better yet.

One of the sponsors above (the colorful boxes) can help you with new or used parts.
 
Arvin, you'd have to mod the lift handle to add the float bail. Basically it's just two holes in the lift handle body to insert the bail. Also the plastic grip has to set lower on the handle to allow for the bail. Here's a detail photo of the one on my Original.

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Todd, if you get a magnetic heater and use it on the rear differential to warm the Hy-tran the engine will turn over faster. You might want to check the ground connections as that is the weak electrical link on most of the Cubs.

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Place the heater here:

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I thought about the heat issue in the Hy-Tran. Where do you find the magnetic heater?

Maybe I will get my heater out and put it behind the tractor and see what happens.

I did try jumping it from my truck and it still did not turn over any faster. Tried with the battery charger too. Switched batteries between tractors and still nothing.

Thanks for the help guys. I am going out to play around now and see what I can get to work.
 

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