My wheel stiks oout further thn the oter by about 3or4 inches what would of caused the snap ring to break.
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Archive through February 15, 2010
- Thread starter digger
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mgonitzke
Well-known member
Lucas-
Can you post a pic? I really think you have two different offset wheels. If the axle retainer was broken, you would most definitely have trouble driving it and you would have
noticed.
Matt S.-
Yes.
Can you post a pic? I really think you have two different offset wheels. If the axle retainer was broken, you would most definitely have trouble driving it and you would have
noticed.
Matt S.-
Yes.
Lucas, I don't know but it sounds like thats what happened. You have to pull the rear cover and find the C clip and put it back on. Check stuff when your in there I've never heard of one falling off for no reason so look for a cause.
Matt types faster than I do, he may be right, look at the end of the axle tube does the hub the wheel bolts to stick out farther there than the other side?
Matt S, Yes
Matt types faster than I do, he may be right, look at the end of the axle tube does the hub the wheel bolts to stick out farther there than the other side?
Matt S, Yes
tdaugherty
Well-known member
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- Tim Daugherty
Bruce N,
Thanks for your help. Got a friend to help me dig er out, and scrape the ice and snow off. I then let it sit for a bit, and then she fired right off as it always does, because it's an International. Had no issues at all. Just needs an oil change in the spring. A hair dryer was handy too. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your help. Got a friend to help me dig er out, and scrape the ice and snow off. I then let it sit for a bit, and then she fired right off as it always does, because it's an International. Had no issues at all. Just needs an oil change in the spring. A hair dryer was handy too. Thanks for your help!
tdaugherty
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- Joined
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- displayname
- Tim Daugherty
Bruce N,
Speaking of oil changes, i believe my 124 has a Kohler K301AS engine. I read in the manual that the A stands for a deep sump oil pan, so does that mean i add a little over the normal refill amount, or not? I think it only holds about 1 to 1 1/2 qts.
Speaking of oil changes, i believe my 124 has a Kohler K301AS engine. I read in the manual that the A stands for a deep sump oil pan, so does that mean i add a little over the normal refill amount, or not? I think it only holds about 1 to 1 1/2 qts.
Tim,
Good job on getting the 124 going, I didn't really expect too much trouble. Anyway, as far as the sump goes, the extra deep sump is there only in the area where the dipper on the rod swings down, so that volume is maybe only a half a cup or so more than a standard pan. I use the dipstick marks as a gauge anyway.
Good job on getting the 124 going, I didn't really expect too much trouble. Anyway, as far as the sump goes, the extra deep sump is there only in the area where the dipper on the rod swings down, so that volume is maybe only a half a cup or so more than a standard pan. I use the dipstick marks as a gauge anyway.
Tristan,
As others have said, there are plenty of good plans out there. I'll be designing my own because I'll be tailoring it to the production methods I have available. If I like how it turns out, and others like how it turns out, I may offer it in a kit form.
For that reason, I'll be sticking with hydraulic components that should be readily available for a long time. There is some money to be saved on components by buying from the surplus houses if you're building your own. I don't have special pricing on the Northern pump or the cylinders from Baileys. Baileys has a good deal on their loader cylinders and they usually have a clearance going on non-standard sizes. I do get good pricing on hose, hose ends, fittings, valves, etc. I'm buying steel plate around 40 cents per pound right now. Structural tubing is running around 55 cents. My design probably won't use any tubing at all, but rather all laser cut and formed plate to minimize the number of parts and make assembly easier.
Pumps can run off either the PTO or the flywheel pulley. I've also seen them driven from the shaft on the back of the hydrostat pump. Keep in mind that if you're driving it with a belt, most small pumps are not designed to handle the side load of the belt drive so be careful about what pump you get. The best option I've seen is using the Haldex pumps from Northern. The hydrostat pump flow and pressure are a bit low for a loader. I'm also a little bit concerned about risking contaminating the lifeblood of a hydro by using for a lot of other functions. I'm probably being overly cautious, but it's something to think about.
If you build one from a set of plans, I'd encourage you to stick with whatever pump and cylinders they recommend rather than substituting something because you can get a better deal on it, unless you or someone you know is capable of calculating what affect the substitution will have on loader performance.
Jerry
As others have said, there are plenty of good plans out there. I'll be designing my own because I'll be tailoring it to the production methods I have available. If I like how it turns out, and others like how it turns out, I may offer it in a kit form.
For that reason, I'll be sticking with hydraulic components that should be readily available for a long time. There is some money to be saved on components by buying from the surplus houses if you're building your own. I don't have special pricing on the Northern pump or the cylinders from Baileys. Baileys has a good deal on their loader cylinders and they usually have a clearance going on non-standard sizes. I do get good pricing on hose, hose ends, fittings, valves, etc. I'm buying steel plate around 40 cents per pound right now. Structural tubing is running around 55 cents. My design probably won't use any tubing at all, but rather all laser cut and formed plate to minimize the number of parts and make assembly easier.
Pumps can run off either the PTO or the flywheel pulley. I've also seen them driven from the shaft on the back of the hydrostat pump. Keep in mind that if you're driving it with a belt, most small pumps are not designed to handle the side load of the belt drive so be careful about what pump you get. The best option I've seen is using the Haldex pumps from Northern. The hydrostat pump flow and pressure are a bit low for a loader. I'm also a little bit concerned about risking contaminating the lifeblood of a hydro by using for a lot of other functions. I'm probably being overly cautious, but it's something to think about.
If you build one from a set of plans, I'd encourage you to stick with whatever pump and cylinders they recommend rather than substituting something because you can get a better deal on it, unless you or someone you know is capable of calculating what affect the substitution will have on loader performance.
Jerry
Yes the hub sticks out farther.
