Archive through February 15, 2010

[jpatchett]

Lucas,

Jim

 

[bnolte]

Tim D.
As long as you didn't get water into the air intake, crankcase, or combustion chamber, you should be okay. Unless the spark plug was out or the air cleaner was off, then you should be okay. Getting it running will help dry any additional dampness from the ignition parts, and work some of the crud through the carburetor. Might want to also put some Seafoam or dry gas into the tank to absorb any water which will turn to ice.

 

[tdaugherty]

Did the 128 have an Electric clutch or standard disk clutch? Since i am getting one soon, a friend of mine told me they had electric clutches?, not sure.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lucas, note that this does NOT warn about the flood of lubricant that will flow out when you remove the drawbar and rear cover...

Though it does say to drain the transmission lubricant, the usual way to do that is to remove the drawbar and rear cover. Hmmm

 

[tdaugherty]

Bruce N,
I had not taken anything off of it, the air filter cover is on and i covered up the motor/generator with a bag.
I am just hoping that water did not get internally into the motor. The seals never leaked in the thing, so i might be ok. I am gonna dig it out today, and see if anything is harmed. I have Gas line antifreeze which would get rid of the ice, and absorb the water. Send me more tips, as i might need help to get er warmed up again, its been a while. Thanks.

 

[stanner]

Tim D,
the 128 had the mechanical unit... the electrics started on the quietlines, 1250, 1450.....

 

[cstouffer]

well i lost my kohler engine service manual,,,,i took out the cam, and the lifters, thats all i know,,,,and charlie there is no govenor how to in the faq,,,,,

 

[aschumacher]

Corey...Download the Kohler manual again. Then dump it to a USB memory stick...then take it to a Staples or Office Max. They can double side print and bind it for you for about $15. Makes a nice hard copy. Made one a while back for another member.

 

[cstouffer]

hey thanx allen,,,,where do i download it at?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Corey, if you look down the page where Charlie posted he mentioned "Did ya

that you can download for FREE by clickin the FAQ link above?" Well if you do click on the FAQ link and look at the 6th FAQ entry it's titled "How do I get manuals, parts books or parts?" If you click on that, you will get the link to where you can download the Kohler manuals for free. It's amazing how much info is in the FAQs.

 

[cstouffer]

haha oops,,,,,thats my bad,,,,,sorry for the stupidityim just a lonely

hahahahaha

 

[kmcconaughey]

Corey, OK, well try to go easy on you.

 

[whecht]

Hey Allen that Member you made the book for was me I just wanted to chime in and Thank You Again

 

[thenrie]

So, I finally started the tear-down on my 1650. I guess buying that 42" blade yesterday got me going. Looks like I'm going to need new motor mounts, snubbers, and flex discs, for starters. The last I read the recommendation from the experience on the forum is to buy two sets of CC repro mounts ($20/set - OUCH!) and use them for the bottom mounts and use the automotive shock mounts for the top ones. That still the best option?

Has anyone found an automotive equivalent for the flex discs and snubbers?

Seems like many of these parts are just automotive parts with a CC parts number. If I can buy locally and save the shipping, I'd rather do that.

 

[cstouffer]

well thanks for the info,, i downloaded it,,,,,i guess i have to take out that lock pin thing,,,,,i just got back from the machine shop,,,,,gonna get the crank turned down .010, im gonna rebuild the motor on video,,,,,so if any of you want to see me,,,,hahahaha,,,,,itll be on youtube next week,,,,thanks for the help guys!

 

[jbaker]

worked on the 129 rescue put the motor in monday and borowwed a few things from the 128 today and had a successful morning as the engine roared to life, now to drain and change hydro fluid and filter tomorrow and pray to see it move

 

[mgonitzke]

Tony H.-

Iso-mounts were specifically designed for this application and are NOT car parts. If you have it apart that far, I'd drop the $100 on new OEM mounts and snubbers. It's well worth it in my opinion. I put all new mounts into a 1650 I used to have, and it was nearly as smooth as my 782 at full throttle. If you tighten the new mounts so only one thread shows and do the cradle modification, it will turn out great.

 

[tstewart]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Jerry Muncie (Jmuncie) on Sunday, February 14, 2010 - 09:25 pm:

Matt,

I don't know what market value is on a used loader, but I can tell you this... I'm planning to build a loader for my 126 at some point in the future. Buying the hoses and valves at my OEM discounts, buying steel wholesale, and getting the pump and valves from Northern and Bailey's, I'm expecting to have about $700 in materials, not counting time in design and fabrication.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Is there any designs out there? I tinker with fabrication now and then, have some small welders but hope to get a nice one soon. Would like a small loader but dont know enough about them to design one out of the air...

If you figure $700 how much do you figure it would be if you were paying retail for the stuff your getting discounted? And am I correct assuming you are adding on an additional hydraulic pump (not using the hydro)? Do you think that could be made to power a log splitter to?

 

[dfrisk]

TRISTAN - Don T's loader on his 129 was built off a set of plans. An Internet search should get You MANY hits. I know there's been ads in everything from RedPower Magazine to Popular Mechanics.
Northern Tools would have pumps, valves, cylinders, hoses, filters, reserviors. Plus there's many other places to by the components as well, from local hydraulic shops, surplus outlets, etc. Once You have the pump & res. all You need is another valve and a pair of remote hyd couplers and You can run about anything.

 

[aschumacher]

Tristan, look here also... www.cadplans.com/
www.p.f.engineering.50megs.com/