• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through December 21, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Denny , Kraig
I sent the guy two emails so far and heard nothing back
bash.gif
. But with the holidays so close he might be away and not getting his emails. I do hope to snap that CW 36 up if I can. Everything looks original and never painted.I was thinking I would just slip plate the auger area and just wash and clean up the rest. I Don `t really need another snow thrower
clappy.gif
to use ,but that one is in nice shape to install on my 100 and have it to show installed and running.I think I need a lean to installed here if I keep finding Cub parts around here lol.
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Lewis Palma

Hello there, you have so many Cubs and attachments over there wow. I email the guy about the chute rod and lift bar and hopefully he will get back to me.I now have the 42" and the 450 and the two stage crapsman and the snapper walk behind lol why not a CW36 also. I have snow removal covered here I think.Dang I wonder what else he might have lol
bash.gif
. Hope you are well! later Don T
 
Thanks everyone for the great info and feedback.
thumbsup_old.gif


Lucas- I see now what you are talking about. Hopefully next week after Christmas I can go and take a look at it.
thumbsup.gif
 
Lucas, yes that is the original non-trip style for an Original, however there was a spring trip style made for the Original as well. It used what is normally called a "sleigh" sub-frame. Note the location of the lift bracket on the blade A frame and the style of the lift rod. BTW, nice looking Original and Blade.
thumbsup.gif


218393.jpg


218394.jpg


218395.jpg
 
Lucas,
There were two different snow blades used on the Originals. The one like you have was the first one and was built in 1960 and 1961. It was the type used on the 25 test tractors (25 tractors, 25 mowing decks,10 blades and a minimum of 50 hours of blade work and or mowing use before the Cub Cadet was released for production in Jan 61). The test program indicated that more of the CC's would be sold for industrial use than originally anticipated so it was QUOTE; "proposed to provide industrial attachments for both the mower and the blade to protect both the tractor and implements from damage such as would occur from high impact loads......." end quote. Bottom line was the deck was modified with a heavy timing belt and swinging (slip disc) blades rather than rigid mounted blades, and the snow blade was redesigned to an optional spring trip type that was built from 1961 and later. The "fixed" blade like you have is not really rare, but it is also not commonly found. If you use it, and after shearing the pin that adjusts the angle a few times, or being thrown up over the steering wheel when the blade hits something solid, it is easy to understand why the spring trip blade was developed.

The Spring trip blade it's self is the same for all models, but the sub frame and mount for the Original is different than the other models. The "A" frame is different and the sub frame looks like the runners on a sled and was built in 61 and 62.

The best I can tell from the picture that was posted of the Original with a blade, that appears to be the correct spring trip blade for an Original.

Kraig types faster than I do, he must use more than 2 fingers.......
 
Paul, you typed more in your post than I did.
happy.gif
Thanks for the great detail on the early blades.
greenthumb.gif
 
Definitely some great info on the early blades. Thanks!

<font color="ffffff">.</font>
 
tried doin some snowplowing and <strike>blowing</strike> throwing yesterday. got some of it moved but most of it is too wet because it was warm yesterday. the snowblower kept getting hung up everywhere
irritated.gif


i changed it just for you Kraig
clappy.gif
 
With all the O talk heres my 129 sunday night and monday morning
218404.jpg

notice the snow coming off the blade
218405.jpg

218406.jpg

218407.jpg
 
old.gif

Ive still got the 125, and want to find an engine to put in it just to plow with since i dont have a hydro that runs and ive never used a hydro in winter
 
Lucas,
I can attest to the fact that you might want to look for a spring trip type blade if you plan to use that thing a lot to plow snow, especially if you're drive is not level. I jumped on my 123 last year without thinking (I had the blade locked) and I, of course, hit a high spot in the drive way and almost went over the steering wheel. I immediately jumped off and set the trip spring so that wouldn't happen again.

Which reminds me - I need to reset it again as I was pushing dirt last spring with it and had it locked again. (we need a guy flying over the steering wheel emoticon here).
 
Jeff, I lightened your photo to better show the snow rolling off. Nice action photo.

218409.jpg
 
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

Thanks for posting all that info on IH snow throwers.
1a_scratchhead.gif
I always thought that the single stage throwers were more likely to freeze up than the two stage,but I have never used a single stage so I will have to wait and see.No snow here yet to give the two stage a try,I should put the 42" on my 147 and give it a try if we get some snow.I will have to get Charlie to send me a belt
bash.gif
for it.I`am out in the shop moving parts around and making room for the Original and getting it ready to sand and paint. I should finish putting my rebuilt 12 in the 125 so I can store that out in the shed.Room in my shop is scarce and should get that finished so I can move it.It will be nice to have the 125 running ,it never has since I bought it lol.(2 years ago) later Don T

Shift.gif
 
This is a good place to share ideas about keeping our CC’s running, so I’ll share mine. Excessive maintenance bothers me, whether it’s a tractor, a house, cars, whatever. I’ve replaced my gas cap gauge twice since I’ve owned my 682. While that’s not bad, I feel this is something that one should never have to replace. The gauge still works good, but the sight lens clouds over to the point you can’t see the needle. So I removed the plastic sight lens and cut a new lens from a pair of plastic safety glasses and drilled a breather hole. The curvature formation matched the old lens almost perfectly. Then bonded the new lens in with silicone adhesive. Works great!
 
I was looking on my parts shelf and came acrost two sets of wires for tractors.If Kraig can tell me if this looks like a set for my 125 and a set for an Original ? , I will be happy because I did not label them.
218412.jpg


I will have to try them and see if they fit!
 
Don, near as I can tell the top one looks like one for an Original the bottom one looks like one for a 125.
dunno.gif
 
NORM B. - Great idea salvaging the gas gauge gas cap. I had one for the metal tank on my CC 72 years ago, pretty cheap & flimsy thing, the cork used to float on top of the gas finally broke apart and the gauge always registered EMPTY. I still use the cap on my #70, it fits tighter on the old worn-out threads on the neck of the tank.

One word of caution, I've had bad experiences using silcon RTV around gasoline. It tends to absorb gas, expand, turn into a gelatinous goo. You might try epoxy, or maybe even JB Weld next time as long as Kentucky Ken doesn't catch you.
 
Also be advised silicone has corrosive properties, so be careful using near metal.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top