Archive through December 07, 2009

[aaytay]

Not so much on the Christmas spirit you say?

Perhaps THIS will work. If you look closely, you'll see the "Elfin Magic".

 

[bbrigham]

Really ?!?!....pretty sweet Elf

 

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
kind a funny how something as important as this gets missed. the manual I have I printed off on my laser printed all 26 pages I think and I can tell you that info ain`t in it.Good to know and I`am some happy I was expecting some thing to go wrong. Thanks for that extra page for my records.

Art A
wow a balanced crank , new piston rod and rings looks like a rebuild in the works . You could send that right over here lol.You are doing something right ..

 

[kide]

Steve:
Always helps to have the right manual - ( GSS-1464 rev2 ) Hopefully I won't have to go as far as Don on my 149, but the input shaft may be cobbled on mine also.. Thanks for the tip on the pins.

 

[snewman]

Art - Wow! Looks like someone made the nice list and 'Santa' arrived early!

 

[mjrobilotta]

does anyone know how to tell exactly what motor i have in my 100. i know it should have a k241 10 horsepower. the tag on the tins agrees with this however when i took off my flywheel today i noticed it said k301 on the block. also is there a trick to getting off the pto bearing?

 

[mjrobilotta]

Nevermind the block issue i figured it out already, but i am still wondering about the pto bearing

 

[digger]

Michael R.
Go here, http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
Click on question #38 & #7

It shows you how to adjust it as well as how to remove it.

 

[T-Mo]

Art,
You must be Santa. How did you know I have a block here in need of some parts for a rebuild? I hope there's a head in your bag also. My block seems to be missing one.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE SHINE - re broken PTO clutch hub. I Really doubt brazing would work to hold that together. And welding wouldn't work without remachining
.
ANYHOW, I've fought the PTO clutch on my 70 for over a year and I finally got it adjusted right I think 2 weeks ago. Normally they would be perfect when adjusted to the gauge but this one is well, let's just say it's been "Molested".
I was looking for replacement set screws at the hardware store two weeks ago and they didn't have the correct styles of set screws but they DID have 1-1/2 in long by 1/4"-20 square head set screws. I ground a taper on the points maybe 1/8" to 3/16" long, put a drop of blue Lock-Tight on them and they threaded right in and only about the top 1/4" with the 1/4" square head was sticking up above the surface of the hub. The square head just clears the drive basket of the S/G pulley. A single long set screw like that should hold your broken pulley hub even with the broken bolt hole. Don't tighten the set screw in the broken hole too tight or it will bend inside the hole and could make it difficult to remove. They cost 65 cents each at my hardware store.

ANYHOW, Got Son's '93 Ford Lightning p/u out of the shop yesterday. After rebuilding the Super HD 8.8" rear axle & Traction-Loc diff about 3 times in the last 9-10 yrs it now sports a Detroit Locker & 3.55 gears instead of the factory 4.10's. Now there's no clutch packs to wear out and shear the ears off, no cupcake pinion gears & side gears in the diff to disintigrate, cleaned the whole inside of the axle housing with the pressure washer. Mental note, never try to pressure wash ANYTHING when it's 19 degrees F out. Everything that moves is NEW, new seals, bearings, gaskets, even a new cast alum. diff cover with pre-load screws. Just the housing & axles were reused. Son's built THOUSANDS of spirol bevel gearboxes at His last job, We've got ALL the tools to set pattern & backlash. He's built a couple standard 8.8's that survived drag strip abuse in Mustangs with 500 HP but this Lightning was just too much weight & HP. Years ago when I used to spend as much time on the Nat'l Lightning Owner's Club website as I do here they'd post pic's of the 8.8" diff case broken into two pieces occasionally.

Now today I can get ready for tonight's foot of SNOW!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, very nice!

Just curious, what CUB is that intended for?

<font color="ffffff"> Or is it for your John Deere 140?</font>

 

[sashiery]

Michael, Kohler used K301 blocks for some K241 engines. It makes for some interesting rebuild possibilities. The only to tell if you "really" have a K241 or a K301 would be to pull the head off and measure bore and stroke.

 

[stanner]

Worked on the Big Battery Stuff project last night... Fits like a glove...

I cut a slot in the battery tray to separate it with a cut-off wheel

Then I clamped a piece of Uni-strut to the side of the tray to act as a brake

Using the crescent wrench as a handle, the front side of the tray was bent forward. The brake made a nice clean crease at the bend point.
The brake was then moved to the floor of the tray, so it could be bent to match the rear portion.

The bend was left a little shy to leave room for a little hammer welding. I now need a 13/16" wide piece of metal to fill the gap. The width of the tray is now 6-1/4", the same as the battery.

I held the strip in place with some panel holders and tacked it in place (insert fugly weld pics now)

I placed the fender pan back on the tractor to check fit before I welded it up all the way.

Placed the battery in

And I have enough clearance for the seat door/frame/lid to come down on top.

The battery terminals are kinda close to the rear metal, I will mount some non-conductive material over the metal to help insulate...

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Er..... Um..... The parts are for a KOHLER!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, that's what I thought!

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[dtanner]

Art A
I see the rebuild is a 14 hp and well I don`t see a 14 hp tractor in your profile, so i`am thinking your putting a 14 in your 100 ?

later Don T

 

[junderwood]

Don,
He has <font color="119911">other</font> tractors if you know what I mean.

 

[hdshine]

Thanks for the comments on my posts below the archive cutoff.

Re: WIM Part I:

Donald: I managed to do this without power tools…

Dennis: One of us is psychic. I was just thinking about that idea this morning during faculty meeting. Do you think that it would be worth it to drill and tap the entire length of the screw hole a larger size so that the full length could be used?

Re: WIM Part II:

Donald: The plug wasn’t wet but there was a faint smell of gasoline. Absolutely no fire (as in combustion) but do have spark – at least when the plug is out and against the block. No firing even when I spray in ether.

Brendan: Boy, I hope the spark is at the right time. This is my big worry. This is my first engine rebuild but I was very careful about lining up the crank/cam marks (no balance gears to interfere). The points open when the compression seems to be the greatest when I hand turn the crank and they open when I see the timing mark.

Mike: If I have spark only when the points open doesn’t that mean that the condenser is okay?

There is resistance as I hand turn the crank so I believe that there is at least some compression. Wouldn’t the ether starting fluid blow even if everything wasn’t just right?

Thanks for the suggestions. Keep ‘em coming please. I’ll be traveling for a few days so I’ll not be messing with these issues and responding to posts.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE - I drilled & tapped the PTO hub on my 72 out to 5/16"-18 years ago. Had a bad setscrew to drill out and mangled the threads in the process. I was going to do that with the hub from the 70 I mentioned but even with only 3/4" to 1 inch of thread length those long setscrews snugged right up. If the broken hole has 1/2" of good threads minimum I don't think it would be necessary.

One thing to consider is You can't put much torque thru a 1/8" hex key. With a 1/4" square head You can use a small open end or combination wrench and You can really tell when those screws bottom out on the pilot bearing outer race.