Archive through August 17, 2007

[tcbusch]

My 147 #4 donated its engine so the loader could still be operational while I rebuild its engine. The engine runs good but the rest of the tractor is in need of a good going over. The linkages are loose, the trunnion is sloppy, the brakes are weak, the upper steering box bearing is gone, I could go on and on.

Now you see it.

Now you don't.

Kinda looks like something is missing.

Now hopefully the loader will have enough power to plow at full speed.

 

[lhull]

Question, I want to install 26"x12 tires on my Cub. What is the ideal rim width bead to bead??

Charlie, send some of that thar rain back thisa way ifin ya don't need it all!!

 

[digger]

Larry,
Your more than welcome to all of it!
I used 10 1/2" bead to bead rims for the 26x12x12 Tru Powers I put on the 1450.

 

[lhull]

Charlie, Thanks for the info. and pics. they look really good, ya got a x-tra pr. for sale?

 

[digger]

Nope,
Just keep an eye out in the classifieds or post a want ad.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Charlie P. While in Ankeny this afternoon I picked up something for you if'n you still want it. The gentleman never received your e:mail so I'm glad that I sent him one. I forwarded the pics that he sent... they are HUGE!!! Anyway... I'm going to bed in a little bit. If you want the critter just let me know. It's tucked between the 782D and the MF10 and the garage is as always locked. Now... let's see... one more item to pick up for you and then I see a road trip to Minnesota in the near future.

B.T.W. gonna post a picture of the item I picked up?

 

[hsimon]

Charlie- That will teach ya for doing your raindance!!!!! We got about 3" over hear, think I'll be mowing darn near everyday once it drys out

 

[kwalesch]

How do I adjust the steering sector on my "new" 125? I adjusted the side, but can't see how to adjust the up and down on the steering shaft. Thanks, Ken

 

[digger]

Ken W.
The up and down?
http://cubfaq.com/steeringrebuild.html

 

[ewells]

I just my first cub a 122 with deck and haban mower sleeve hitch all manuals and sales receipts and sales literature will be a work in progress but only minor concerns at this .Looking forward to finding tips and advise in the future

 

[digger]

Ed W.
Be sure and take a look at the FAQ pages listed above, there's a wealth of info there for first timers.
Your hooked now!

 

[kwalesch]

Thanks, Charlie, Ken

 

[digger]

Well the rain stopped for a little while and I thought I would take a peek under the seat on the new 125.
This guy musta had quite a stash laying around for thst can to be there, If memory serves me right, didn't Blatz go belly up in the late 50's? LOL

 

[dgrenard]

Charlie, I believe Blatz was available in at least the early 70's, is the can steel or aluminum?

 

[digger]

It's aluminum.

I did a google and your almost right, seems it was still being sold in the mid 80's. Who knew.

 

[brehm]

Hey guys, if you look, at least here in S.E. Wisconsin you can still find Blatz. I even recall while on a tour of the Briess Malting Facility in Chilton they had Blatz in cans in the Coke machine for Fifty cents a can, What a Deal!!!!.

 

[etifft]

It's me again. Now that my tractor is running ok, and charging the battery, on to new issues.

When i bought the tractor 5 years ago, the person I purchased it from also gave me new motor mounts but told me he didn't think needed to be replaced quite yet. Well, it appears my engine is kind of jumping a little bit during mowing. I noticed one of the lower bushings on the front is gone.

Time for that replacement I guess.

Any tips anyone can give me before I tackle this job? Doesn't appear to be a fun job. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, I have a 1650. Thanks....

Ed

 

[aschumacher]

Ed T. I'm not too familiar with your situation, but 'till some one else jumps in, look at the 2nd FAQ page, #23. They talk about beefing up frame for shock mounted engines.

 

[mgonitzke]

Edward T.-

If the engine can be wiggled around in the frame, then it's time to fix the motor mounts. I just did this on my 1650. It's not the most fun job, but it's not real bad and needs to be done. Drain the oil, remove the battery, disconnect all of the wires going to motor and headlights, unbolt and remove grille casting/hood as an assembly and set it aside. Unbolt the front rag joint (the one on the motor) and then unbolt the engine from the rails (leave the rails attached to the tractor for now) and then slide the motor forward slightly to disengage it from the driveshaft. Have a helper help you remove the engine and place it on your workbench. Now, unbolt the rails, remove them, and save the bolts. Clean up any oily mess in the engine compartment. Now is also a great time to replace your rag joints and all the spirol pins in the driveshaft. Now, weld a crossbrace in the cradle as shown in the FAQ, and follow the instructions for installing the new mounts. While the motor is out it's a great idea to remove the pan and check the balance gears for play and probably remove them. I did and I'm glad I did so. Get a new pan gasket and reinstall the pan. Put everything back together and enjoy your really smooth 1650. You'll be glad you did. Good luck!

And on a completely different note, this'll probably be one of my last posts for quite awhile, I leave tomorrow for college 1000 miles away and I doubt I'll have time to visit the forum anymore. I'll try to poke in and say hi on major holidays, and hopefully I'll be able to work on my tractors when I'm home for Christmas. Thanks for all of the help from all of you over the past 4 years, I never would have been able to do all I have with these tractors without the forum. See you all later!

 

[digger]

Matt,
What! they don't have puters where your goin?

Enjoy school now, cause life is a real PITA.