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Quick question guys....Do wet, or internal brakes need the fluid to work properly? I have just done a trunion repair, a hydro gasket, and several other small things while I had this 1250 apart. I decided to see if I could go ahead and adjust the brakes. I haven't put the hydro fluid back as of yet. I can spin the rear axle easily. I pull on the brake arm and get nothing. Shouldn't the axle freeze? I even adjusted it on down and still nothing. Is internal pressure needed for these brakes to function properly? Am I missing something or just dumb as a chicken?
Any and all appreciated.....Wayne
Any and all appreciated.....Wayne
Kraig,
Thanks a ton. That should hopefully do it.
Just one question, are these directions on the manuals page? Just so I can print them off to work with.
Also has anyone taken off the valves and cleaned them?
Just curious as to what's involved in the process and how much of a headache it is?
Thanks again folks
Luke
Thanks a ton. That should hopefully do it.
Just one question, are these directions on the manuals page? Just so I can print them off to work with.
Also has anyone taken off the valves and cleaned them?
Just curious as to what's involved in the process and how much of a headache it is?
Thanks again folks
Luke
Kraig
I can`t seem to open parts look up and need the piston and ring number for a new piston for a 125 I have here. also should I rebore.30 using the new style piston and rod? What did you use in your rebuild? thanks Don
I can`t seem to open parts look up and need the piston and ring number for a new piston for a 125 I have here. also should I rebore.30 using the new style piston and rod? What did you use in your rebuild? thanks Don
DONALD - There's two types of TINY-TACH's. One for Kohler engines that drive the ignition points off the camshaft, one opening & spark for every two engine revolutions, on the "Power stroke" and another type for Briggs & Stratton engines that run the points or Capacitor discharge ignition off the flywheel and waste a spark on the intake stroke. Sounds like your T-T is the model for the B&S engines. Most places you have to really CONVINCE them that you need "The OTHER Tach" to get the correct one!
Not a problem as long as you know the display is half engine speed, but I'm not sure what it does to your operation hours function. If I had to guess I'd say it would still record an operating hour as 60 minutes of run time. I know I've mentioned here before that mechanical tachs like the distributor driven tach I put on my Super H back in 1969 with factory FARMALL 350 parts shows "Operating Hours @ 1650 RPM" which means every 99,000 crank revolutions IS an operating hour regardless of engine speed. Interesting because the early '60's vintage BIG V-6 powered GMC semi-truck Dad drove for a while said "Operating Hour = 100,000 revolutions" and it would run up to 3000-3200 RPM, putting an hour on in thirty minutes.
Not a problem as long as you know the display is half engine speed, but I'm not sure what it does to your operation hours function. If I had to guess I'd say it would still record an operating hour as 60 minutes of run time. I know I've mentioned here before that mechanical tachs like the distributor driven tach I put on my Super H back in 1969 with factory FARMALL 350 parts shows "Operating Hours @ 1650 RPM" which means every 99,000 crank revolutions IS an operating hour regardless of engine speed. Interesting because the early '60's vintage BIG V-6 powered GMC semi-truck Dad drove for a while said "Operating Hour = 100,000 revolutions" and it would run up to 3000-3200 RPM, putting an hour on in thirty minutes.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
... and to add to today's confusion: A friend came in this morning to see if I had an extra dipstick for his 125. His was broken off. He'd stuck a magnet down the tube and found nothing. The recent postings of the Oil Fill Only stick came to mind, and darned if that wasn't his "problem". On a 12hp K301 (I checked the tag). I thought only the 14hp had that oil fill only stick. Another day, another lesson in Cubland.
Wayne, should not need fluid or pressure for the brakes to work. It's a simple system, just has two brake pads that press on a gear in the transmission/differential.
DONALD - re: Your question to Kraig about piston/ring part numbers; I would not bore .030" unless you have to. Clean the piston top off and see if it's marked "010", "020", or "030" already. Then go next oversize. That leaves you another oversize for the next rebuild. Same thing on the crankshaft, only grind the rod throw .010" undersize if you have to. I know someone mentioned in the pulling forum that the Magnum series crankshaft is a direct replacement into a K-series IF You can find the correct Kohler number, but they aren't making any more replacement blocks. And installing sleeves is expensive and actually weakens the block somewhat.
Don, I don't recall what piston/ring set I used. I just ordered whatever part David asked me to order.
Wayne S
It is doing what it's doing because of the differential action of the rearend. With both wheels/axles turing the same direction, at the same time, the brake will work unless there is something broken. The brake is basically on the front end of the pinion shaft, and when you appli the brakes, it stops the pinion from turning and as long as both wheel have traction, the tractor stops. The simple version of an answer about what is happening is when you turn one wheel/axle by hand, the brake has basically locked the wheel that is not turning and the differential allows the other one to keep turning. Apply the brake and try to turn both wheels/axles the same direction at the same time. You probably can't do so, and the brake is working.
It is doing what it's doing because of the differential action of the rearend. With both wheels/axles turing the same direction, at the same time, the brake will work unless there is something broken. The brake is basically on the front end of the pinion shaft, and when you appli the brakes, it stops the pinion from turning and as long as both wheel have traction, the tractor stops. The simple version of an answer about what is happening is when you turn one wheel/axle by hand, the brake has basically locked the wheel that is not turning and the differential allows the other one to keep turning. Apply the brake and try to turn both wheels/axles the same direction at the same time. You probably can't do so, and the brake is working.
Wayne,
Just a thought here, but do you have the tractor on jack stands so that when you turn one axle, the other turns the opposite direction? The internal brake only stops the differential carrier--not the individual axles. If you're turning one axle without holding the other, the carrier isn't turning to begin with.
Jerry
Just a thought here, but do you have the tractor on jack stands so that when you turn one axle, the other turns the opposite direction? The internal brake only stops the differential carrier--not the individual axles. If you're turning one axle without holding the other, the carrier isn't turning to begin with.
Jerry
Dennis Frisk
This is what was in the 125 when I bought the tractor
new valves and guides , .010 rod and .020 piston. I never start a tractor I buy that has no run in awile without takeing off the head and have a look. I foud this when I did .
So I don`t want to even start it because of the scoring in the cylinder. its deep enuf for me to get a fingernail on.So I want to rebore .030 before I run the 12K. Crank has been turned I can see and looks great.
This is what was in the 125 when I bought the tractor
new valves and guides , .010 rod and .020 piston. I never start a tractor I buy that has no run in awile without takeing off the head and have a look. I foud this when I did .
So I don`t want to even start it because of the scoring in the cylinder. its deep enuf for me to get a fingernail on.So I want to rebore .030 before I run the 12K. Crank has been turned I can see and looks great.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Eric-
Plastic or wood scraper, razor blade, and a lot of time. It sort of helps to soak the carbon in WD-40.
Plastic or wood scraper, razor blade, and a lot of time. It sort of helps to soak the carbon in WD-40.
Thanks Kraig, Paul, and Jerry-
When I turn the axle with pressure on the brake arm the other side turns in the opposite direction. There seems to be no resistance at all. I think I should get some resistance even with bad brakes. I hear nothing and feel nothing. I'm now wondering if something is broken inside. I haven't had the pleasure of doing a wet brake job yet. BTW, the wheels are off and it is on jack stands. The tractor is even split so everything is easily accessible.
Can someone who has done a wet brake pad replacement chime in and let me know the level of difficulty? The manual seems to be written for relatively smart people and I can't determine exactly what's involved.
Thanks to everyone involved....Wayne
When I turn the axle with pressure on the brake arm the other side turns in the opposite direction. There seems to be no resistance at all. I think I should get some resistance even with bad brakes. I hear nothing and feel nothing. I'm now wondering if something is broken inside. I haven't had the pleasure of doing a wet brake job yet. BTW, the wheels are off and it is on jack stands. The tractor is even split so everything is easily accessible.
Can someone who has done a wet brake pad replacement chime in and let me know the level of difficulty? The manual seems to be written for relatively smart people and I can't determine exactly what's involved.
Thanks to everyone involved....Wayne
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
The brake has absolutely nothing to do with the differential action. All the brake does is brake the main shaft in the transmission, which will stop the carrier. The axles are still free to turn in opposite directions with essentially zero resistance.
The brake has absolutely nothing to do with the differential action. All the brake does is brake the main shaft in the transmission, which will stop the carrier. The axles are still free to turn in opposite directions with essentially zero resistance.
Wayne, I recall Denny, or someone, posting long ago about using a Cub to tow a heavy trailer or possibly a hay wagon. When they tried to stop the brakes actually worked but he had one tire spinning backwards and was still moving forwards.
Denny?
Denny?
Wayne, Kraigs right with both wheels up there is no brake on the wheels, the brake is on the transmission. I think Art had a story about a hill, wet grass and a trailer going down a hill.
So leave one wheel on the ground and check your brakes. Scale of difficulty with the tranny out of hydro I don't know but a gear drive is prolly 3-5, not hard, a little time and a few tools.
So leave one wheel on the ground and check your brakes. Scale of difficulty with the tranny out of hydro I don't know but a gear drive is prolly 3-5, not hard, a little time and a few tools.
Dave, actually it was Paul B. that first mentioned it with regards to Wayne's query. I never thought about it until then.
I believe you may be correct about Art having a similar experience as well.
