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Archive through April 20, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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J

jott

Guest
sounds like it Frank
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So Kraig, just take a piece of wire( of course covered) and cross the "terminals" on the safety switch with the clutch pedal locked down and turning the key on? that sound right? i want to make sure im doing it right.
 
Josh, your method would work but it doesn't sound safe. Here's the saver version: Step one make sure key switch is OFF. Step two connect a wire between the two terminals on the neutral safety switch. Step three attempt to start engine with key switch.

Don,
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I'm not even good, let alone great...
 
Josh - Then take the jumper back off !

Hey when you said it wouldn't start with the key you left a wide hole in that statement.

1) Wont crank over
2) Cranks but doesn't fire

If it's #1 then I'd ask if you had the solenoid cables off and let the stud turn when you put the cable back on. The electromagnetic coil could also have a broke wire.
 
Have clutch/brake pedal locked down. It may start * leave KEY "OFF".

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wat does "see if the celenoid pulls in" mean exactly? If it starts does that mean the celenoid is shot?
 
KENtucky, thanks for adding that correction to my "oops" where I left out step four, remove jumper.
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Don, see, I'm not even good.
 
If it's good it'll make a "clank" sound , then you'll know that it's working. Some pull in so soft you have to have a finger on it to feel it pull in.

If it's good then go back to what Kraig was doing OR the problem may be the start/gen is bad.

If as you said it'll hot wire start and turn off with key then it's on the starting side of the circuit. Switches/solenoid/starter/bad broke corroded wires connections.

<font color="ff0000">Correction: If it hot wire starts then the start/gen is good.</font>
 
Guys I connected the tiny tack and put the tape on the pto drive cup And run my 149 up to 1220 constant rpm and then used the digital tack
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and get 2447 rpm
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Ok whats up with this,I think they should say the same RPM. ??
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Donald - Looks like the correct reading to me ... you have to remember where it's made ... squint your eyes real hard and it'll look right
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If that came from fleebay it's probably one that their poorly trained QC staff rejected then was bought by the pallet load by a reseller.
 
Hey guys,

so I got the seat off, and checked the ccmanuals, an the manual is telling me to split the tractor, or refer to manual Gs 1301.

However in the ccmanuals their is no listing of any gs manuals or listing of splitting that I can see.

I can see the valves an they look dirty, but fat hands in small area's never seem to work. Plus the manual says to split it.

So does anyone know how to do this.

Its a 123 hydrostatic in case of new viewers

Thanks
Luke
 
Ken
tested it a wot and got 1630 on the tiny tack and 3247 rpm on the digital tack.Yet you are right onJ @ C junk . Now this got me thinking because the 149 is just a humming and smoth lol, it might be turning 3247, it is a strong tractor bored 30 over. Just had a brain fart lol i`ll give this a test with the Ram. the cummings has a tack and I`ll retest again. Don
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Don T, you noticed that one tach is about 1/2 the reading of the other! Maybe something not setup properly on one of the tachs??
 
Well I did test the rpms on the truck and they show the same rpm . So the tiny tack is not reading right. Good thing I set my wot by ear using another engine .Now to set up another Tractor.
 
Allen Schumacher
I think you are corect on that. I bought that tiny tack for my 129 loader and thought that was allways showing half.I set the 149 by ear at double what the tiny tack said and I was still lower than 3600 rpms it calls for. I think now I can say this digital tack is correct and have more Cubs to set.
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Josh Ott

Conect a tester to both termanls (big bolts) and use a jump to power and ground on small wire connect. If the switch and that is what it is works then when connected to power it will shiow acrost the tester. I do find it hard to print this from the brain to here.
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