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Archive through April 16, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Harry,
The float on the left is exactly what mine looks like. Looking forward the mail man showing up later in week or first of next with a new one!

David,
I will let everyone know how I made out. But your saying its dripping from the bottom of the carb? Perhaps the gasket rink is bad on your float bowl or the screw/nut on the bottom that holds the bowl on? My problem is when I roll the engine over to start it, when I choke it, the gas will literly spit out the bottom hole of the carb on the filter side. I could hold my hand about 6 inches away from the carb and have gas hitting it in a stream. If I don't choke it, engine will just continue to roll over, not fire or anything. I am guessing it is just pumping gas right into the cylinder and right out into the muffler?

Also, I forgot to mention this the other day. I changed the oil in the K241 - well, I think it was oil? OMG! Can you say thick as molasses! Yikes! Its a wonder the engine ever run. No joking it took about 5 mintues for the oil to drain through the 6 inch funnel I was using. Nasty!
 
jim thanks,

just wondering how you would go about putting one one and where should i look to find one. I don't think they are easy to find. sorry everyone i am new to this tractor picked it up for 250 and trying to get it looking complete before i restoreit to new
 
DAVE S. - Gas leak out a freshly rebuilt carb is most likely from a distorted bottom of the soft alum. fuel bowl. Where the big brass nut threads into the bottom of the carb. The inner area around the nut gets pushed "up" every time the nut is tightened. Then the fuel bowl doesn't put enough force against the seal properly.

Remove the fuel bowl and set upright on a flat hard surface and GENTLY tap the inner ring of the bottom of the fuel bowl down. You just need to tap it down a very little bit, 1/16th inch or less, but make sure it's flat and even. Re-install and I bet your gas leak is gone.

Dave Kirk sells new fuel bowls stamped from steel. MUCH stronger and sturdier piece. And a bargain at $7/each.
 
The gas is dripping from the carb, not the bowl. New gasket and trued up the edge of the bowl before putting it back together. The fuel is coming out of the bottom of the throat that seals onto the air cleaner base.

I thought that was Mikes problem in the beginning,

LOusy day for a road trip!
Picking up a #2 cart this afternoon.

Dave S.
 
James, put an ad in the classifeids, rear lifts are plentiful and easy to intsall using the manual from the manual section of the forum.
 
?
Have my first Hydro (129)Going through it getting to know it and catch it up on maintenance.
In the FAQ. Am I understanding correct, that the hytran fluid is used in the rear end as a gear oil ? How much to expect to put in ?
 
Gary, yes use Hy-Tran in the rear end/transmission. You'll need 14 pints.

257266.jpg
 
Harry B.
On the front loader your son bought. There are not many IH CC out west in the Rockies. But there in one similar to that one. I have talked to the guy to see if he would sell it. He said he has been asked a few times, the answer is NO. He uses it in the winter to clear a small driveway. Has replaced many hoses over the years. I plan on keep hitting him up on it.
 
Kraig M.
Thanks. I do want to use the HY-Tran. Did a search on CIH dealers. Unfortunately my closest one is 75-80 mi. Not all highway. May have to bite the bullet and spend a day.
 
Gary definetly go with HYTRAN
Also very nice IH collection in your profile
 
Jeff
Thanks, I am looking at thinning out the heard. Going to start selling the trucks. Keeping one that is not listed (75 200 pickup) for wood hauling. But as I get older laying on my back is not as much fun. And these IH parts are not light.
I'm having more fun with the IH CC now days.
 
Gary, as Jeff mentioned, nice IH collection listed in your profile. If you do not presently have Hy-Tran in the rear ends/transmissions of your Original, 128, 106 and 147 you might want to get enough Hy-Tran to change out/refill them as well. The chart I posted below has the proper amounts for the gear drives; Original, 128 and 106, each require 7 pints (3.5 quarts.) The 147 being a Hydro requires 14 pints (7 quarts.)
 
Gary - there was a guy with a loader on a narrow frame, up north of me but I've lost track of him. Also, the first loader I saw and posted on here was a Johnson loader owned by an old timer in MT. So they are rare but do show up from time to time. Been quite a few years now but there was some hot discussions on here about plans/directions on line for making your own, that is if your itch just won't go away.

And on your need for HyTran, before I'd go driving 90 miles I would definitely check the sponsors in those fancy colored boxes at the top of the page. I know Charlie has the CIH HyTran Ultra. You just as well order up a correct filter and maybe some other parts at the same time and I believe you can get a flat rate shipping deal out of it.
 
Oh Correction, I posted I just got my first Hydro.
I forgot about the 147. A friend of mine that knows I like the IH CC came across one for $75, bought it. Without me knowing about it, he showed up at my house rolled it off his trailer and said you owe me $75. I was happy about it but, have never gotten to really look it over.
 
Gary, oil is "ok" (but not recommended) for the gear drives. The Hydros should NOT have gear oil in them, only Hy-Tran or worst case a Hydrostatic Transmission type fluid.
 
Gary, I think I would use whatever hydraulic fluid is specified by the log splitter manufacturer. Hy-Tran isn't cheap and I believe a typical log splitter uses several gallons. I know my log splitter uses 5 gallons.
 

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