Archive through April 07, 2004

[dkamp]

Bonjour Michel-

Your Cub Cadet is in the "MTD"-made vintage. If a wiring diagram exists online for it, you'll find it at :
http://www.ihregistry.com/ref/mtdwire.html

 

[kmcconaughey]

Michel C., a schematic for the 1772 is on it's way to you via email. It is a bit too big to post here and if I reduce the file size you won't be able to read it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Todd, unless your 682 already has a hydraulic lift you'll have to swap out the hydrostatic pump for one that is a ported version. Then you'll have to add the control valve(s), a lift cylinder (if you want hydraulic lift) and plumb hydraulic lines to the rear. I assume you want to run a tiller with a hydraulic motor.

 

[pfunk]

I get questions every month or so about how I built my Mini-H from a Cub Cadet. I finally got around to writing a description of the process and placing it on my website at www.cubcadetman.com. I hope this helps out anyone that might be considering building one. The description is under the "HowTo" section. I hope to someday have a description of building the Mini-560 and the plow as well. Just takes time.

 

[theins]

Craig,

I do not have a hydraulic lift and you are correct, I have access to a cheap tiller with a hydraulic motor. If I also run the hydro lift, I will also need put in a dual valve like the one posted in the April 6 archive? I see a 782 complete lift setup on Ebay, which I see listed every now and then. Is that what I need along with the ported pump?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Todd, yes and no, the 782 parts should just about drop right in but may or may not include front outlets as they were optional on the 782. If you can get a parts 782 it would have the ported hydrostatic pump. The mods might be similar to Steve B's dual valve setup except you would be plumbing the outlets to the rear rather than the front.

 

[kmcconaughey]

BTW, it's Kraig. )

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul F., great website, even better tractors!

 

[theins]

Kraig,

Sorry for the misspelling of the name, I’m sure you get it all the time. Thanks for the info, I think I’ll see what I can find and try to do it.

 

[wcompton]

FWIW-
I solved my confusion on crankshaft bearings. The tolerances work so that with the bearing and crankshaft tolerances, it's a transition fit, from .0006 interference fit down to .0003 clearance fit.

 

[dkirk]

Keith E.,

Thanks man. I'm brainwashed from being in the engine industry for 28 years. Just call me motor mouth.

Wyatt C.,

Preload force for stock Kohler K-series (large)
valve springs is 25 lbf valve seated, 50 lbf valve fully opened at .312 lift. Spring constant is 81.4 lbf/in.

On your bearing dilemma, I think your SKF contact is in error. A 6308-C3 is the correct ball main bearing for your engine. Motion Industries numbers are all correct. As the majority of ball bearings used are C3's some manufacturers drop this and only use a different spec (C1, C5, etc) when this internal clearance, or "precision" is called for. Bottom line, believe Motion Industries.

Ball main bearing inner races should always have a slight interference fit with the shaft to prevent rotation or "creep". Otherwise fretting corrosion takes place between shaft and race. It produces that red stuff (iron oxide) that you see sometimes when you remove a bearing from shaft. Interference should only be around .0002 to .0005. Coat the shaft with high pressure grease or STP and you'll be amazed at how easy they slide on, once you get them started. Once together, drive the crankshaft to one side using a plastic or Compothane hammer, then measure clearances between inner race and crank shoulder. This is shown in the manual.

 

[till]

Tom H,

Looks like an other 82 in the neighborhood.

All it needs is a blower.

I can't wait till plowday.

Oh and todays lesson;
X / 0 = Undefined, 0 / X = 0

(Message edited by till on April 08, 2004)

 

[aaytay]

 

[wdeturck]

Tried the electric rust removal today. I got a 15 gal. plastic keg and am using a brake rotor in the bottom for the donor metal. hooked the wire under the lug and hooked it to a long bolt with 3 nuts through the keg yo hook my + battery charger lead. Drawing about 2 amps on a large peg off a harrow.

 

[tgoodnow]

Hey guys,

I have followed all manual instructions and still to no avail. Please Help.

I have a 169 rebuilt and seems to (doesn't) want to start and run only when choked.

It doesn't even start, It has spark at the points and plug. I just rebuilt the carb.

 

[bmcmeen]

Tim G. -

Then you might want to consider REcleaning the carb, because you might have gotten a paint chip or piece of dirt caught in one of the passages.

And check the filter screen that's in the fuel tank.

Sounds like a fuel flow issue, that should be listed in the Kohler manual...

 

[ghannigan]

Tim.

Your profile says u have to 169s, just use the other one. Usually if it runs only on choke it's not getting enough fuel. You need to go back through the carb and make sure there is no little piece of dirt in an openning. Re check your neddle valve settings. Check the fuel flow to the filter make sure there is no settiment getting to the carb.

George H

 

[ghannigan]

William
I'm loading up all my rusty parts to bring to your place. See u in a while.

George H

 

[bmcmeen]

There's an echo in here...

 

[jmoore]

who sell decals?