Archive through April 07, 2004

[tgoodnow]

Just checked fuel No Problems Im going to take the bowl off and clean again.

I checked all needle holes and settings. to no avail.

Hmmm
Yes george I do have the other one I could use or I could use one of the 2 149's but this has been my pet project this week.

Tim

 

[wcompton]

Tim-
For whatever it's worth, my 169 has the needles both backed way out, and it's even the proper 1" #30 carb. Those K341's like their gas. I want to say my 169 has 3.5 turns on the main and 3 on the idle, don't quite remember, but I know when I tuned it I started out with 2.5 turns on the main and 2 on the idle. I turned the idle screw out just about to where the carb started searching for a steady speed and adjusted the main and the governor hardly moves at all. I just had the same problem you did recently, all I did was pull the carb apart, just blew it out by blowing into the fuel inlet, threw it back together and runs fine now.

Don't get too frustrated if you can't get it to run, sometimes these little carbs are finicky.

 

[ghannigan]

Brian,

Guess we were typing at the same time u just hit post button faster than I did. At least the information is consistent.

 

[kdunham]

Tim G.-Also make sure your valve clearances are correct FOR SURE!

 

[wdeturck]

George H.: Bring them to PD III PA and you can pick them up at the PD IV PA in Oct.

 

[digger]

Jack M.
Sponsors sell decals!
Like Bryan says, try one of those pretty colored boxes at the top of the page.

 

[dmorrissette]

I have a question for the group. During rebuild of my k301. I found 2 crank seals pressed into the pto side. They were different is size and configuration. The outer seal had an L shaped case that just presses straight into the bore of the block. The inner seal has a check lip on the OD and drops in with only a slight interference. The inner seal was made by IPC. (I work for Freudenberg NOK which bought out IPC in the late 80's) I used to work in the Bristol Facility where IPC used to be.) I know a little something about seal design. It seems like that inner seal could start spinning w/the crank with enough heat. Heat would increase friction which would increase the likelyhood of the problem. The outer seal has both a sealing lip and a dust lip.
Ok bla bla bla.
The question is does that inner seal belong there? I'm thinking no. it's someone's experiment
Oh ,and to add to my theory that the second inner seal doesn't belong in the pto end of my crank is that I didn't get one when I ordered a seal/gasket kit.


Dan

 

[kdunham]

Dan M.-One seal per end. Previous owner probably had a leaker and couldn't get it out,or,it slipped in there by itself creating the leak. I work at an engine rebuilding shop and have extracted many frost plugs from blocks that were worked on and someone didn't get the extraction process quite right so they left them in the block. Start over and you'll be fine.

 

[sblunier]

Todd H.

Re: hyd drive tiller.

Don't try to run a hyd. motor off of the hydro charge pump!!!!! It is not designed to produce the pressure or volume necessary for the continous operation of a hyd. motor large enough to reliably run a tiller. You run the risk of starving the hydro, over heating the hydro/hy-tran, damaging the charge pump etc.

The std dual spool valve is not designed to run a motor either. It does not have a motor detent position, nor does it have any means for controlling flow (speed) of oil to the tiller.

The hyd. system on a Cub Cadet uses the hydro's charge pump in short intervals for relatively low volume loads..........the tiller does not conform to either of these criteria.

Buy a pump and run it off of the front PTO, similar to how the manufacturers do for their hyd. tillers......please don't do it with you hydro.

 

[sblunier]

All.....

I have some very interesting things working on the Brinly plow front....should have them wrapped up by tomorrow noon.

If this works like it's planned, trash problems could be history

Pics soon....

 

[dkamp]

Here's my home-made sleeve hitch. I didn't have the reccomended 2.5" x 3/8" strap-iron, nor did I have a proper 1" od x 5/8" id tube, so I used 2" by 1/2" angle iron for the framework, and a chunk of old 1.25" stainless-steel propeller shaft. I center-bored the shaft by chuckin' it in the lathe, and sticking a bit in the tailpiece.

I still have to make the two lifting-bars... I've seen pictures of 'em- if anyone's got critical dimensions for the hole drillings, please let me know, otherwise I'll just take a WAG and see what happens!

Here's two identical dudes, and the only way you can tell us apart... is 'cause his left foot has all five toes!!!

(Message edited by dkamp on April 08, 2004)

 

[dkamp]

Hey Todd... I second Steve's recommendation- find out what the pressure and volume requirements for the hydraulic motor are... use a separate hydraulic pump, driven either directly off the engine's shaft, or using the PTO pulley. Besides a pump and some plumbing, you'd need a suitable reservoir. If you plumb the pump to the motor, then the motor return to a reservoir, and reservoir to pump, and drive the pump from the PTO sheave, you could simply control the tiller by disengaging the PTO clutch... that stops the pump, erat, the tiller. you'll want to determine the amount of flow required to spin the tiller at your desired speed... and size the pump AND pulley ratio to yield the desired tiller speed at a normal working engine RPM... like say... 3000. The math and concepts aren't hard.

 

[dmorrissette]

Thanks for the info Kevin. One other question I have is from which direction do I press the seal in? Does the flat side w/ the ident marks face out or is it the other way around?
Dan

 

[kdunham]

Dan-Yes,you have it right,flat side out.

 

[tgoodnow]

Thanks Wyatt
Will work on it this weekend.

Tim

 

[bmcmeen]

Hmmm, just thinking out loud...

It'll be interesting to see how that sleeve hitch adapter works out.

I would think that there was a method to Brinly's madness when they made theirs as "springy" as they did.

Most of us here remember SB's first attempt at building an adapter and how mangled it got from the forces of plowing.

I would think that building it SO stiff that there's no give would cause the lower hitch bracket to take the punishment. Especially in ground like last year's Little G

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, I remember that, I wonder if I have any photos of it? I'll have to have a look.

I have this Toro sleeve hitch adapter that I converted to use on a Cub Cadet. It is thicker than a Brinly but it is still slightly bent like many Brinlys I've seen. So far I don't have any 3 point installed on my Cubs so I have not been able to use it. Anyone want to try it out at WFM on April 24th? If so I'll bring it along, and yes I have the 2 center lift straps/brackets.

This is what it originally looked like, note the side lift rather than the center lift point.

Steve B., thanks for the input on the hydro stuff.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on April 09, 2004)

 

[dmorrissette]

Thanks Kevin.... You da man!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, Steve, is this the one?

 

[dkamp]

Hey Bryan, Kraig, Steve- Thanks for the input. Yeah, it might be a tad on the stiff side... I suspect that if I put it in the 20-ton press, I might get it to deflect a little after really leaning on the handle... :-}

The bracket I made is fairly substantial too... Other than the welds all being in tension and single-plane (rathern' combination of tension, compression, and shear over multiple planes) I think the bracket will probably be okay. If I break it, I'll just make the next one heavier.

I'm concerned about the mounting to the axle- I used the bottom FIVE bolts rather'n the bottom three, and the studs I've currently got installed are actually pretty lousy- just cut from all-thread 'till I can swing by K&K and get a handful of serious 2" x what... 3/8-16? studs.

My guess is that if I hitched the whole thing up to one of my radio-tower's guy anchors, I'd just spin wheels, but if I used heavy chain, and got a SERIOUS run at it, I'd just rip the studs out.

As for the through-pin... I considered using one long pin on the bracket, but I'd hafta take off one tire to slide the pin in there... and I made my bracket with inner and outer ears, also... I'll shoot pix today, post 'em tonight... mebbie even have straps on, etc!