Archive through April 07, 2004

[rleo]

Kraig (or others):
The ball hitch on my Durango sits higher than the ball hitch on the drawbar of my 124. I've seen picks on the forum of drawbar/ball "combos" where the ball is fastened higher than the drawbar using an armature. Am wondering if you could dig up a few pics for ideas.
Thanks in advance.
--Ray

 

[digger]

Bryan,
I gotta a feelin we all know how it's gonna work out!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ray, you must be thinking of Richard C's hitch. He made two versions. This is version 1. I'll see if I can dig up version 2.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here is Richard C.'s second design which allows the use of the 3 point.

 

[dkamp]

Here's my sleeve hitch assembly so-far... using chains instead of lift-straps 'cause I had a piece of chain, and haven't had time to make lift-straps yet... but perhaps it'll plow okay just like this?

Thanks for the plow setup reference... Keith, Steve, and anyone else that'll be at Propheetstown... I'll be using Dave Ross's plow, and not only don't I know anything about it, it appears that there's some art, science, and skill to getting a plow set up correctly. Seein's how this'll be my first time at breaking earth with anything smaller than an AC D17 (which I just 'drove') and since I'll probably have my hands-full keeping Nick under control, I could use experienced hands to do a quick-set-up of Dave's plow on my 109 when I get there...

 

[wcompton]

Dave-
It's not linear pull that really kicks sleeve hitch adapters, it's the downforce of the plow sucking itself into the ground along with the bobbing up & down it does at the endrows.

Until 3 years ago, and LOTS of plowing well beyond Plow Days with a 10 and 12 inch plow, this one was NOS, and is bent enough so that the plow hangs about 3" lower than it used to. Given, this is still very well useable. Also, yours probably cost you nothing, so what if you have to make another one, you'll have ideas to make it better and maybe you'll happen across one better than the Brinly.

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie -

Just as long as I'm not in front of behind if it happens

BTW, the pretty colored boxes is the Rev's

 

[wcompton]

THis morning's Kohler project was to clean up & paint the flywheel and put on a new ring gear. Just in case nobody's put on a ring gear before, DON'T hammer it on, the chance of getting it cocked sideways and stretching it is too great. Clean both surfaces, don't apply ANYTHING (i.e. Loctite) and warm the ring gear up in the oven at 450 degrees. When pulled from the oven it falls right into place and in a few seconds it's cooled and clamped itself to the flywheel very securely.

Working on flywheels when I worked at <font color="119911">another job</font> a few years ago with Valeo as a supplier, that knowlege finally came in handy.

 

[rleo]

Kraig:
That's it. Thank you.
Your recall never ceases to amaze me. . . .
--Ray

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - That sleeve hitch You pictured the one You had on Your 72 @ PD #1? ;-) I've been contemplating modifying My sleeve hitch a bit to get more lift out of it. I should have made it adjustable WAY back in '85 when I built it. Too many other projects under way right now. Your Wheatland is really taking shape!

 

[dkamp]

Okay, so I see Wyatt's Brinly, and based on just that one photo, the only 'visible' (from this angle) failure is the fact that the sleeve deflected by about 8 degrees. Wyatt- trouble me with the details if my guess ain't correct... I'm betting that the twist in the sleeve is actually in the strap-section on either side of the sleeve, probably around the middle third of each side... Here:

And the thrust which actually causes the twist imposes a reaction like this;

If that's the case, I can see why the double-bend in earlier drawings I've seen, and I can readily see why the flat-iron square box that someone (Steve?) made earlier would not survive.

I also find it hard to believe that many would survive with this weenie little 'lift tab'... I thought it'd be a little out-of-it's league... but I don't think the angle-iron is beyond it's torsional capacity... adding a pair of gusset-plates around the lower edge (to restrain torsion of the crossmember at-around the sleeve) would be pretty easy... and actually, I would've used channel-iron in there too if I'd known beforehand. As it is, this thing weighs quite a bit... twice the calculated weight of the materials used in other designs I've seen...

 

[wcompton]

Dave-
The Brinly adapters have the bends like they do so that there's not really any straight length in the portion that the implement's attached to, so that the section in torsion is accross a bend.

Also, I don't know what exactly is the worst-case scenario of hitch use, the horizontal pull can't be more than the tractor weighs, but the vertical pressures at worst case can be what the hydraulics can force on it, or at least enough to lift the front wheels up.

I'd say go with what you've got, you'll have to probably plow quite a bit to get it to bend, it's not like it's going to explode . . . worst thing you might have to do is stop plowing and BS with those not plowing, and at a Plow Day, that makes for a pretty good day.

 

[wcompton]

If someone's got pictures of Denny's hitch he has on his 72 that'll be about the best, it's one hitch design that is pretty darn robust.

Not to mention that it doesn't require ANY of the dollar parts of a Cub Cadet 3-point, and I think it's got better draft geometry than most as well.

(Message edited by wcompton on April 09, 2004)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wyatt, here's a photo of Denny's 3 point, but not a great one.

 

[kweaver]

Wyatt -- there ya go again ... "the horizontal pull can't be more than the tractor weighs" , so tell me how I've drug 3 tons with my homemade tractor and how do "pullers" get to the end of the track ??? Hillbilly's want to know !

... and I'm ashamed of all you guys telling to run a hydraulic system of an external pump and NEVER saying to add an inline <font color="0000ff">filter</font> on the suction side !

 

[dkamp]

Hey Wyatt! Okay, well, I slapped together a tounge to stick in the sleeve... stuck it out about 3' back from the end of the hitch, and stood on it... then jumped... hard enough to put the front wheels in the sky with all my 220 chocolate bunnies... and it had no effect... didn't even spring... but just for good measure, I'll see if I can add in another 10# of gusset and 7018 hot-glue.

And if I end over on the sidelines wrestling Nick and shootin' the bull with the other spectators, that's okay too. Jim offered to let me try my hand at one'a his, and if I feel confident that I won't do any damage, and if Nick is behaving, I might do that... but my guess is that I'll manage to drag an implement a long enough distance to know what to expect, and then I'll take the following week to either stout'n'it up for WFM, or just leave the implements off and bring it (and Loader-Mutt) along as trailer-queens.

DK

 

[dkamp]

KENtuck... both you and WYATT are correct... more-or-less. Wyatt's comment stems from the Tractive Effort calculations commonly used in the railroad industry, where coefficient of friction and mass on driven wheels pretty accurately calculates the amount of drawbar pull. Depending on the propulsion system, a rail vehicle can develop somewhere between 25% and 46% of it's weight in drawbar effort. Of course, if you're going on an incline past a couple percent, it kinda skews things a bit.

The only time that you can EXCEED this figure, is when you're using something that physically engages the driving surfaces... that's where them cool logging-trains come in- they've got gears that engage racks in the railbed... that allows 'em to climb very steep grades with heavy loads.

In the case of an ag-tire into slightly frozen ground, one can develop in excess of 100% pretty quickly... especially with ALL WHEELS driven (that puts 100% of vehicle weight on driven wheels).

But the reason you can pull a 3-ton sled with a 1/2 ton tractor... is because it doesn't take 3 tons of drawbar pull to drag the sled... just like you don't hafta be able to LIFT a cub in order to DRAG it with stuck drivetrain.

Of course, if you can develop enough drawbar pull to LIFT the load, you'll obviously be able to DRAG it, unless you're in a serious condition... I believe the Mil guys in Vehicle Extrication refer to it as what... a "Mire-3 Condition"... when the vehicle's not only incapable of rolling, it's also dragging a substantial amount of earth, rock, or other debris with it...

And if the object is fully buried, it's no longer referred to as a 'vehicle', it's considered a 'deadmin' or 'deadman', in which case I use it for tying guy-wires to hold radio towers!!!

 

[nfisher]

hey KENtuck, heeeheeeee just like the old days!

ok, i'll say it. it's always a good thing to put a strainer unit in the suction line, preferably one you can get at and replace easily.

here's one from my archives....

 

[wheinsohn]

Dave K.,
After finding this sight a few years ago, I made my own adapter also. Since I worked in a sheet metal shop, I thought it would be easy. Here is a picture of the 1st one I made. I made it out of 3/8 X 2.5 mild steel and added the extra cross braces to prevent what happened to Wyatt's Brinly. It worked great on my 106 and 123 but when I put it on my 129, the lift straps hit the braces since the wide frame rear lifts seem to lift higher than narrow frame. I them made a 2nd one with 1/8 X 1 cross braces welded in at the bottom. Neither one has bent and I am sorry to say that I do not use them very much since I was lucky enough to win a Brinly remake at the 1st plow day I attended.

 

[wheinsohn]

Sorry Dave, the file was too large. I will try to shrink it down.