Scott.....WELCOME ABOARD!!!
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Archive through April 03, 2015
- Thread starter dschwandt
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Scott S., WELCOME!
Adam, I just watched your videos. Is that a small engine fuel filter or an automotive fuel filter? If it is an automotive fuel filter it may be causing fuel flow issues, as it would require more pressure behind it to flow properly. Just a thought. Also, do you have the heat shield/muffler support bracket? You should get that mounted up before you run it too much as the weight of the muffler could crack the block at the exhaust outlet.
Adam, Just watched your video also and noted the clutch/brake pedal was released when Nola cranked it over. Not to rain on your parade so to speak but the tractor should not have cranked in that position for safety sake in case for some reason it would happen to have been in gear! Looks like maybe you have a bypassed or inoperative neutral safety switch problem.
Take Care!
Take Care!
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Has anyone experienced the following?
Trying to get a front axle out of a narrow-frame 122, roll-pin absolutely refused to budge so I drilled the ends off and now I can turn the axle pin in the frame, but I can't get it out of the axle itself. I've tried heating up the axle with a MAP gas torch, but it didn't help; I've used penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and hit the pin repeatedly with a 4 lb hand-sledge. I'm ready to try a thin cutting wheel and get between the frame and the axle and cut the ends of the pin off so I can carry the axle to a hydraulic press and hopefully press the pin out.
Has anyone else ever had this problem, and if so, what did you do to resolve it?
Picture:
By-the-way, the hole in the frame cross-member is wallowed out, so I'm going to probably have to replace it as well.
Trying to get a front axle out of a narrow-frame 122, roll-pin absolutely refused to budge so I drilled the ends off and now I can turn the axle pin in the frame, but I can't get it out of the axle itself. I've tried heating up the axle with a MAP gas torch, but it didn't help; I've used penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and hit the pin repeatedly with a 4 lb hand-sledge. I'm ready to try a thin cutting wheel and get between the frame and the axle and cut the ends of the pin off so I can carry the axle to a hydraulic press and hopefully press the pin out.
Has anyone else ever had this problem, and if so, what did you do to resolve it?
Picture:
By-the-way, the hole in the frame cross-member is wallowed out, so I'm going to probably have to replace it as well.
Jeremiah C.
One word- SAWZALL
The thin wheel will eat into the axle and axle mount, no matter how careful you are.
One word- SAWZALL
The thin wheel will eat into the axle and axle mount, no matter how careful you are.
Jeremiah C
It's probably going to take a big torch and a lot of heat on the pin and/or the axle itself to get that pin out the same way it went in there. You are probably going to wreck either the axle, axle channel or both any other way.
The bushings are available yet but pricy. one could make new ones from 3/4" bushing stock but it will require lathe work to do it properly.
I just completed replacing the channel in a 1450 and it is a PITA! I was lucky in that the replacement channel had good bushings yet.
Getting the old bushings out is not easy either, I did that last spring on a 126 and did a thread on that project but darned if I can find it to send you there. I can, however, send you some pictures of what is entailed after you get the axle and pin removed and would be glad to do so.
The bushings themselves are "spun welded" to the channel in addition to the welds that you can see and have to be split several times in order to get them free of the channel.
It's probably going to take a big torch and a lot of heat on the pin and/or the axle itself to get that pin out the same way it went in there. You are probably going to wreck either the axle, axle channel or both any other way.
The bushings are available yet but pricy. one could make new ones from 3/4" bushing stock but it will require lathe work to do it properly.
I just completed replacing the channel in a 1450 and it is a PITA! I was lucky in that the replacement channel had good bushings yet.
Getting the old bushings out is not easy either, I did that last spring on a 126 and did a thread on that project but darned if I can find it to send you there. I can, however, send you some pictures of what is entailed after you get the axle and pin removed and would be glad to do so.
The bushings themselves are "spun welded" to the channel in addition to the welds that you can see and have to be split several times in order to get them free of the channel.
Kraig, the fuel filter came as part of a "tune up kit" that I ordered online, so I'm assuming it's a small engine filter. I've seen identical ones at the local hardware stores in the small engine section, so I believe it's the correct fitment. Yes, I do have the missing heat shield. Didn't put it on yet but never thought that the weight of the muffler could cause problems. I will get it mounted ASAP. Thanks for the tips!
David, you are right about that safety switch. Never have had to depress the brake since I first got the tractor, so I'm guessing either my uncle bypassed it. Good idea to have that operational since my girls will be using this tractor by themselves eventually. Thanks for pointing that out and for watching my vids!
David, you are right about that safety switch. Never have had to depress the brake since I first got the tractor, so I'm guessing either my uncle bypassed it. Good idea to have that operational since my girls will be using this tractor by themselves eventually. Thanks for pointing that out and for watching my vids!
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Jeremiah C. For me having that kind of problem is solved when I use the STRONG ARM Rust Remover Penetrating Solution. Using PB Blaster anymore is a waste of time and money. It'll take a day to soak completely through only trust me... It DOES work. Just put the tractor so that stuff can soak straight through. After the Strong Arm soaks through I just take a hammer and punch and tap on both sides and soon the piece is out.
Jeremiah C.
The sawzall sounds like the best option to get the axel out to a press. A good bi-metal 18+ tooth blade. This procedure can bend a blade real fast if the blade tip dead heads on the bracket.
The repeated hammer pounding may have deformed the pin, possibly made it fatter. I have used a air chisel on the pin, the vibration slowly breaks the corrosion up. The map torch does not have enough heat output to work on the cast iron axle.
jim
The sawzall sounds like the best option to get the axel out to a press. A good bi-metal 18+ tooth blade. This procedure can bend a blade real fast if the blade tip dead heads on the bracket.
The repeated hammer pounding may have deformed the pin, possibly made it fatter. I have used a air chisel on the pin, the vibration slowly breaks the corrosion up. The map torch does not have enough heat output to work on the cast iron axle.
jim
Scott S.
The rear pto on the CC is almost useless, except the SGT 982. There are several applications that don't apply to the average owner, conveyer drive, feed grinder, etc. These are driven by a rear mounted 90 deg gear box with a wide (10") belt drive pulley/hub.
http://www.ccspecialties.org/pics/flatbelt1.jpg
The 1450 front hydraulic ports most common use is the snow/dirt blade angle cylinder.
Jim
The rear pto on the CC is almost useless, except the SGT 982. There are several applications that don't apply to the average owner, conveyer drive, feed grinder, etc. These are driven by a rear mounted 90 deg gear box with a wide (10") belt drive pulley/hub.
http://www.ccspecialties.org/pics/flatbelt1.jpg
The 1450 front hydraulic ports most common use is the snow/dirt blade angle cylinder.
Jim
mfrade
Well-known member
Jeremiah,I had a pin like that and to remove it I intentionally drilled it off center, and using increasingly larger bits I got the hole large enough to drill out one side of the pin and exposed the axle. A couple squirts of oil into the "joint" and a hammer / pin then drove it out.
I believe the drilling relieves the mushrooming as well as allows the lube in.
It worked for me..
I believe the drilling relieves the mushrooming as well as allows the lube in.
It worked for me..
Jeremiah C.
That looks so familiar! Been there with my 122. My roll pin had sheered years ago causing the axle pin to rotate in the bushings. I had to beat and beat that thing for hours before success. When I finally did get the axle pin out it was quite rusty. I think on later axle housings there was a grease zirk installed. All the pros here would probably know if I am correct. On your bushing repair if you have a wire feed I had good luck with fill welding and carefully using a dye grinder to open it back up to axle size.
Steve
That looks so familiar! Been there with my 122. My roll pin had sheered years ago causing the axle pin to rotate in the bushings. I had to beat and beat that thing for hours before success. When I finally did get the axle pin out it was quite rusty. I think on later axle housings there was a grease zirk installed. All the pros here would probably know if I am correct. On your bushing repair if you have a wire feed I had good luck with fill welding and carefully using a dye grinder to open it back up to axle size.
Steve
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Jeremiah - hold your HORSES about grabbing that torch or grinder. You said you "can turn the axle pin in the frame". That sounds to me like the pin isn't frozen in place - more likely the pin has been cut into by the channel and it's locking itself in place. I see in your pic the pin is offset. What I've done in the past is turn the frame upside down and started to beat on the pin again. Hope you have the engine out and dash pedestal removed.
hydroharry
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Adam - I watched your videos as well, and have a few comments. Your internal engine replacement parts should require no changes to the Governor adjustment settings. I'm a firm believer about putting the spring back into the same worn holes where it was originally installed. I don't know exactly what Bill R meant about adjusting the Governor, but I think he may have meant you have to make absolutely certain the governor is adjusted according to the manual. Loosen the governor arm nut and bolt, make absolutely certain the pin is turned fully counter-clockwise and hold it there, then pull the arm such that the throttle is fully open on the carb, and then tighten the nut holding the governor arm to the pin. You need 3 hands to make certain all this is correct at the time you tighten the nut holding the arm to the pin. If that pin slips back even just a little the operation won't be correct. I've even gone to the extent of putting a little mark on the pin so I know exactly where it is when turned fully and where the mark is when the arm is pulled fully - and that mark better be in the same spot when I tighten the nut holding the arm.
Also, you rebuilt your carb and I wonder where your setting are for the high speed needle and the idle speed needle (how many turns open are they?). In my experience, they should be within 1/2 to 3/4 turn of the initially settings noted on the manual. Any more or less than that and I get suspicious of a problem carb problem.
In your video I thought the engine itself sounded good and I really feel your problem is related to the governor. Steve asked if your throttle is slipping back and you noted you changed the end of the cable. You do need to make sure you have enough wire exposed at the end of the cable so you have full throw of the throttle.
Good luck with it and let us know how you resolve it.
Scott S - is the rear PTO on your 100 a splined output shaft or do you happen to have a right angle gear box rear PTO? If it's the latter then it's likely the style for an IH tiller.
Also, you rebuilt your carb and I wonder where your setting are for the high speed needle and the idle speed needle (how many turns open are they?). In my experience, they should be within 1/2 to 3/4 turn of the initially settings noted on the manual. Any more or less than that and I get suspicious of a problem carb problem.
In your video I thought the engine itself sounded good and I really feel your problem is related to the governor. Steve asked if your throttle is slipping back and you noted you changed the end of the cable. You do need to make sure you have enough wire exposed at the end of the cable so you have full throw of the throttle.
Good luck with it and let us know how you resolve it.
Scott S - is the rear PTO on your 100 a splined output shaft or do you happen to have a right angle gear box rear PTO? If it's the latter then it's likely the style for an IH tiller.
jchamberlin
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Charlie: I hadn't thought of using a Sawzall, but I think I will, especially since the method has been seconded by Mr. Plow.
Dave: Thanks for the heads-up on the "spun weld" nature of the inserts. I know the material is pretty tough after opening up the ones on my 782 to accept a metric bolt.
Stephen: I may try your method of filling in the space with welding rod. I have a welder friend who owes me a favor.
Mike: I didn't want to resort to the drill, but I thought about it, but first I posted a message to the Forum.
Jim: I wondered about the MAP torch, but I know it is hotter than my propane torch. I didn't want to drag out the acetylene, and I wasn't sure but what getting the cast iron red hot would damage it. Overall, the Sawzall seems like a better way to go.
Harry: the only thing currently attached to the frame is this axle. I've positioned it every which way but loose (literally
)
Marlin: I may try soaking it some more, but I've already beat myself silly trying to hammer it out, probably mushroomed the head, and will probably pull out the Sawzall sooner rather than later (depends on how I feel the day I get a round to it). I'm not familiar with the StrongArm stuff you're talking about, I'll have to check it out.
Thank you, everyone who responded. Love this Forum; you don't have to feel you're the only one who has hit a rough spot now and then.
Dave: Thanks for the heads-up on the "spun weld" nature of the inserts. I know the material is pretty tough after opening up the ones on my 782 to accept a metric bolt.
Stephen: I may try your method of filling in the space with welding rod. I have a welder friend who owes me a favor.
Mike: I didn't want to resort to the drill, but I thought about it, but first I posted a message to the Forum.
Jim: I wondered about the MAP torch, but I know it is hotter than my propane torch. I didn't want to drag out the acetylene, and I wasn't sure but what getting the cast iron red hot would damage it. Overall, the Sawzall seems like a better way to go.
Harry: the only thing currently attached to the frame is this axle. I've positioned it every which way but loose (literally
Marlin: I may try soaking it some more, but I've already beat myself silly trying to hammer it out, probably mushroomed the head, and will probably pull out the Sawzall sooner rather than later (depends on how I feel the day I get a round to it). I'm not familiar with the StrongArm stuff you're talking about, I'll have to check it out.
Thank you, everyone who responded. Love this Forum; you don't have to feel you're the only one who has hit a rough spot now and then.
Steve B.
Why is the Sawzall out?
Because it's to easy?
I've done 4 like that and it took less than 5 minutes to do.
It also heats up what's left of the pin and 3 smacks with a LFH and they all popped out.
I'll stick with the KISS method myself!
Why is the Sawzall out?
Because it's to easy?
I've done 4 like that and it took less than 5 minutes to do.
It also heats up what's left of the pin and 3 smacks with a LFH and they all popped out.
I'll stick with the KISS method myself!
Jeremiah Chamberlin
I don`t know if you remember a few years ago the front axle on my 129 loader gave me problems . I found I could bend the lip of the axle with a crescent wrench to give me more room to remove the pin. I think I used a bolt and nut to replace the pin so the front axle would be stronger .
I don`t know if you remember a few years ago the front axle on my 129 loader gave me problems . I found I could bend the lip of the axle with a crescent wrench to give me more room to remove the pin. I think I used a bolt and nut to replace the pin so the front axle would be stronger .
I hope this is in the correct section.This is my newest find. I just had to "bring it home". It was on a local website ad for 3 mins when I called about it. I researched the s/n 682922 and found it to be a Nov.1980 build.
