I just cranked the 149 for garden duty and after seeing the ammeter not moving decided to check the battery to see if it was charging. I was surprised to see 18.6 volts at the battery at about half throttle. I'm assuming the v/r is acting up. Has anyone had this problem recently and what should I check first? This tractor has been sitting for about 6 months. It turned over well and almost cranked without any help but I finally just jumped it to avoid straining the charging system. Little did I know...
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Archive through April 03, 2015
- Thread starter dschwandt
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Harry,
You are correct, and much better worded. My post is vague at best.
I use to just try turning it a little this way and back some, ends up being a back and fourth thing before I'm happy with the way it runs.
I'm more of a shoot from the hip guy and don't read the manual until I've wasted several hours. Never ask for driving directions either.
Bill
You are correct, and much better worded. My post is vague at best.
I use to just try turning it a little this way and back some, ends up being a back and fourth thing before I'm happy with the way it runs.
I'm more of a shoot from the hip guy and don't read the manual until I've wasted several hours. Never ask for driving directions either.
Bill
Wayne S.
Jumping the tractor to start should not harm the charging system, assuming you use a standard 12v battery or other vehicle that is good, electrically speaking.
The points in the VR may be not working as intended, maybe no air gap, stuck closed. There is an service/adjustment procedure in the NF 1X6-7 service manual on section-page 1-32 or pages 36-39 in the PDF here on this site. The WF manual has nothing in my copy. You will at least need a small thin flat file or fine grit sand paper to clean the points. An ohm meter is good to check the coils. Checking the gaps requires a feeler gauge.
My 149 has the crappiest after market VR. I have adjusted it several times, just seems to never work correctly all the time.
jim
Jumping the tractor to start should not harm the charging system, assuming you use a standard 12v battery or other vehicle that is good, electrically speaking.
The points in the VR may be not working as intended, maybe no air gap, stuck closed. There is an service/adjustment procedure in the NF 1X6-7 service manual on section-page 1-32 or pages 36-39 in the PDF here on this site. The WF manual has nothing in my copy. You will at least need a small thin flat file or fine grit sand paper to clean the points. An ohm meter is good to check the coils. Checking the gaps requires a feeler gauge.
My 149 has the crappiest after market VR. I have adjusted it several times, just seems to never work correctly all the time.
jim
Thanks Jim-
I have several V/Rs and have had this problem many times as well. I have never had good luck readjusting the gaps after cleaning the points. I've also gone by the manual while attempting to bring V/Rs back to life but never with much success.
I guess it's time to spend some more $$$!
I have several V/Rs and have had this problem many times as well. I have never had good luck readjusting the gaps after cleaning the points. I've also gone by the manual while attempting to bring V/Rs back to life but never with much success.
I guess it's time to spend some more $$$!
Thanks for the info guys. I kind of agree with the idea that the rear PTO is a novelty.
I have thought about taking one of my extra mower decks to my local machine shop and have them turn it into a 3 point mounted rear mower. I'm sure they would be happy to do it for the right $$$$$$.
Harry, the PTO on the 100 is the spline shaft. I have the right angle gear box on my 123 for tiller duty.
I have thought about taking one of my extra mower decks to my local machine shop and have them turn it into a 3 point mounted rear mower. I'm sure they would be happy to do it for the right $$$$$$.
Harry, the PTO on the 100 is the spline shaft. I have the right angle gear box on my 123 for tiller duty.
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Scott, I suspect others will add in but, I dont think the pto shaft goes fast enough to spin the blades fast enough. How about an old vertical shaft engine from an recent push mower to power the deck?
Happy Easter, all!
Okay electrical gurus, I need some help. My 107 has always started hard, but this morning it finally quit altogether. The starter won't even get past the compression now. Battery good. Turns over with spark plug removed, but still a bit slower than I would have expected.
I have always figured that the valves were out of adjustment, so I pulled the breather to check them. Sure enough they were way out, as in no gap at all at TDC. So I readjusted them hoping for some success; knowing that it probably wouldn't help since an engine lock usually occurs when the gap is too large. Anyway, no joy.
So then I began to look at the starter. Pulled the belt, and turned the key. Still didn't feel like it was turning fast enough so I decided to remove it. This is where it gets interesting. I pulled the armature and field wires, then removed the bolts on the SG. When I removed the lower bolt which has a ground wire connected to it, I got a spark at the connection between the ground wire and the SG. Hmmm, correct me if I'm wrong, but if there is no positive wire hooked to the SG, I shouldn't get a spark on the ground wire when it touches the SG, should I? Not sure what position the key was in when this happened, but I don't think I should get a short to ground in this area regardless as long as the positive voltage is removed. I am thinking now that I may have a wiring short somewhere that is causing the SG to act lethargic.
Anyone out there to point me in a direction? I hate chasing down wire shorts, but I am afraid that this might be what I have.
Thanks,
Brent
Okay electrical gurus, I need some help. My 107 has always started hard, but this morning it finally quit altogether. The starter won't even get past the compression now. Battery good. Turns over with spark plug removed, but still a bit slower than I would have expected.
I have always figured that the valves were out of adjustment, so I pulled the breather to check them. Sure enough they were way out, as in no gap at all at TDC. So I readjusted them hoping for some success; knowing that it probably wouldn't help since an engine lock usually occurs when the gap is too large. Anyway, no joy.
So then I began to look at the starter. Pulled the belt, and turned the key. Still didn't feel like it was turning fast enough so I decided to remove it. This is where it gets interesting. I pulled the armature and field wires, then removed the bolts on the SG. When I removed the lower bolt which has a ground wire connected to it, I got a spark at the connection between the ground wire and the SG. Hmmm, correct me if I'm wrong, but if there is no positive wire hooked to the SG, I shouldn't get a spark on the ground wire when it touches the SG, should I? Not sure what position the key was in when this happened, but I don't think I should get a short to ground in this area regardless as long as the positive voltage is removed. I am thinking now that I may have a wiring short somewhere that is causing the SG to act lethargic.
Anyone out there to point me in a direction? I hate chasing down wire shorts, but I am afraid that this might be what I have.
Thanks,
Brent
