1450 with No spark

[rwalker]

Hi All, Happy Forth early
My 1450 is having a NO SPARK issue.

What started this service is at the end of last summer this tractor was having an issue running at full throttle. Up to half throttle was fine, above half the tractor would stumble. That is what prompted the changing of the electrical parts.

I have replaced the points, condenser, coil and spark plug. Set the points using the “Static timing” method per the Kohler service manual. They are opening and closing.

I borrowed a spark plug wire from another tractor and that was not the problem.

Tested the wire from the points to the coil with an ohm meter on audible and it beeped. I do not know what would be an acceptable number if I was to use any other ohm setting.

I tried running a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the positive side of the coil, no spark.

I have a “Power Probe 3” and when placed on the negative side of the coil and trying to start the tractor, the probe reads positive. When I stop trying to start it, it goes back to negative. Is this normal?

At this point, I am lost.

Thanks in advance.
Rich

 

[etopel]

Is the condenser on the negative terminal and well grounded? Another thing to check is that the points are making contact. Sometimes new points get some oxidation on them and need to be cleaned. The wire between the points and coil should be basicly zero ohms. And just because it's new doesn't mean the coil is good (probably is but it happens). Good luck

 

[dschwandt]

If you have juice to the positive side of the coil with the key on like there should be, Use your test light on the negative side of the coil and crank the engine over.
It should blink indicating the points are working.
If it does not, the points are not closing and opening like they should.

 

[rwalker]

Etopel – The condenser is on the negative side. I have not check it ground connection as I presumed so where is it mounted to the coil bracket screw.

I used a small file on the points before setting them to remove any oxidation.

I did try installing the original coil with all the other new parts. That did not help.

Dshcwandt – Good thought on the test light. I will try it tomorrow.

Thank you both

 

[jack casey]

If you have juice to the positive side of the coil with the key on like there should be, Use your test light on the negative side of the coil and crank the engine over.
It should blink indicating the points are working.
If it does not, the points are not closing and opening like they should.

This is the best piece of 'no spark' advice I've seen here.
Cheers, Jack

 

[rwalker]

Update:
My original static timing of the points was with the crank set to the “S” indicator.

I used the test light method to test for the points opening and closing, none.

I then reset the points (static timing method) using the TDC and tested again with the test light, still nothing

I then connected my ohm meter (audible) to the negative terminal of the coil and to a ground connection on the engine. Turned the crankshaft by hand to get a ground connection through the points. Nothing happened.

With the points supposedly closed, I noticed there appeared to be a very small gap. I was able to place a .002” thick feeler gauge into the opening.

With meter still connected, I then adjusted the points until the meter started beeping. Now I turned the crank again to TDC, I re-adjusted the points to .020” gap. The next thing, I continued turning the crank and found the points opened up even more. Once fully opened, I re-adjusted the points to .020” gap again. One thing I noticed was the TDC indicator was now past the window, guessing about 15 degrees.

With the new setting, I turned the key and the tractor started. Once running I was able to go out and begin mowing my lawn

Thanks for all your help.
Rich Walker, Jr.

 

[-CӞ]

good work Sir, and nice pair you got there.

 

[hydroharry]

Update:
My original static timing of the points was with the crank set to the “S” indicator.

I used the test light method to test for the points opening and closing, none.

I then reset the points (static timing method) using the TDC and tested again with the test light, still nothing

I then connected my ohm meter (audible) to the negative terminal of the coil and to a ground connection on the engine. Turned the crankshaft by hand to get a ground connection through the points. Nothing happened.

With the points supposedly closed, I noticed there appeared to be a very small gap. I was able to place a .002” thick feeler gauge into the opening.

With meter still connected, I then adjusted the points until the meter started beeping. Now I turned the crank again to TDC, I re-adjusted the points to .020” gap. The next thing, I continued turning the crank and found the points opened up even more. Once fully opened, I re-adjusted the points to .020” gap again. One thing I noticed was the TDC indicator was now past the window, guessing about 15 degrees.

With the new setting, I turned the key and the tractor started. Once running I was able to go out and begin mowing my lawn

Thanks for all your help.
Rich Walker, Jr.

I don't understand how what you said is happening. Only thing I can think is you're using the wrong gap on your feeler gauge.
The "S" indicator is on the flywheel and should be the point where the points just begin to break open.

 

[mgonitzke]

The points begin to break when the "S" mark is centered in the sight hole, which corresponds to 20 degrees before top dead center. This is what the timing needs to be set to, not TDC.

Here is a more detailed procedure for static timing than what is in the Kohler manual: http://mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/static_timing.pdf

 

[dschwandt]

I used the test light method to test for the points opening and closing, none.

Then the points WERE NOT CLOSED!

With the points supposedly closed,

Therein lies your problem, they were not closed, or, if they were, were not making contact due to whatever.
Does your light work between the negative and positive terminals on the coil itself? Or the bettery for that matter?
You are overlooking something that should be rather simple at this point.

 

[tkhoffman]

Sounds like you didnt have the Crank where it needed to be before gapping Points.

 

[rwalker]

I agree, the points were not closed fully which is why they were not making contact. I have a tiny file set which I used on the points to clean the contact before installing. Having dirty contacts was not the issue.

I am not sure if I fell into the correct location or not. I do know I went out and mowed some of my lawn for an hour at full throttle and the tractor performed excellent. I had not cut the grass in several weeks so it was very high.

At this point it start right up and runs well.

Matt, this coming weekend I will double check the setting using your link you sent. Thank you for that.

 

[dschwandt]

I agree, the points were not closed fully which is why they were not making contact. I have a tiny file set which I used on the points to clean the contact before installing. Having dirty contacts was not the issue.

I am not sure if I fell into the correct location or not. I do know I went out and mowed some of my lawn for an hour at full throttle and the tractor performed excellent. I had not cut the grass in several weeks so it was very high.

At this point it start right up and runs well.

Matt, this coming weekend I will double check the setting using your link you sent. Thank you for that.

Guess you have the issue under control then.
Good deal!