Sorry, not understanding the fourth sentence.
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I guess I should proofread before hitting post
When you are sitting on the seat with the pedal pressed down and you turn the key the small wire on the solenoid gets 12 V from the key switch. That is what starts the entire process. When the solenoid has 12 V on the small wire it then connects the electricity from the battery wire sending it through the other large terminal to the starter
My Fluke tester arrives tonite from Amazon. Then I jump the starter and do everything else.
Cheers
Jack..I mentioned before you don't need a tester to jump starter..simply,run a wire from pos. on batt. to "s" post on starter.I,ve seen starters that are not marked well but usually the "field" has an F or the word field beside post...Dont' fasten wire just touch by hand ....either starter will kick in or it won't ...If it does not roll than you have a starter issue....maybe it's bad or not grounded well but remember your dealing with 50 yrs of possible corrosion in all connections... ..You could do the same test with a separate batt and jumper cables with neg grounded to starter frame
rjruchti
Well-known member
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- Roger J. Ruchti
Use regular jumper cables, attach one end to the battery, other end - neg to a good ground on the engine. touch the Pos to the large cable nut on the S/g. It should spin over good. If not check the junper connections. If they are good then your battery is week or bad. That eliminates everything between the battery and the s/g. If the s/g does spin, start working back towards the battery one connection at a time with the jumper pos and the neg. Bet you find a bad ground some where along the line. Good luck.
Okeydokey. Thank you Roger, Gary, Everett, Lew and all the ships at sea. Going from pos on battery to the field on s/g produced some exciting sparks and a touch of smoke from a wire which turned ouyt to be no prob. I am just a would-be electrician, but seeing the new solenoid and cleaning up existing copper I ran a wire from sol to s/g, with the pedal locked down, of course. Engine fired up.... I am so happy I cud just s**t.
Cheers, Jack
Cheers, Jack
Jack,we are pleased for you!! I have a tremendous amount of knowledge if I could just remember where it is ... Sharing is what we do well...
On the same subject,sort of... I purchased a 108 today the s/g is marked with a "f" and an "a" .I have seen them with just an f and just an s....just means never take it for granted
Great to hear the good news Jack!
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Ok, with alllll the back and forth, what was the actual problem? Bad wires? Bad safety switch? Bad solenoid?
Oops! I shud have mentioned it was the bad wire from sol to gen/start.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
It's always nice to hear what the 'fix' ended up being. Thanks.
If you have the desire, up the gauge of that wire when replacing. The bigger the better when it comes to the high current need of the Starter
If you have the desire, up the gauge of that wire when replacing. The bigger the better when it comes to the high current need of the Starter
Ever notice that 6v cables are twice the size of 12v cables?
Emmet, compare the wire size from 60's to today.You will find a huge diff. in diameter..all about saving money..if it works ,it's big enough...
Just saying that the larger capacity 12v battery passes more current through the smaller cable the the 6v cable.
I'm the guy who could stuff what I know about electrical in a thimble and still have room for a shot of whiskey..so says a friend...I'm still learning and not catching up to today at all...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
This is because for the same power being transmitted, the current for the 6V system is double that of the 12V system.
The original battery cable size on most of the IH Cub Cadets is 8 gauge...this is in fact quite marginal, especially if any of the connections are dirty. Newer mowers I have worked on have had the same size or larger.
I put 4 gauge battery and starter cables on my 1872. It turns over more effortlessly than any other tractor I own.
Not quite...up to a point, a given wire gauge does not care what voltage is applied to it. The current carrying capacity is what varies with wire gauge. With the same load, a 12V system will have half the current than a 6V battery in the same setup.
I did that. Thanks
The diameter of the cable is relevant to how many amps it will carry. Has little to do with voltage.
It is a true fact that a 6 V component will draw more amperage then a similar 12 V component
Have you had a chance to dig in to the 2284 yet. I've owned one for 15 years or so, great tractor.
