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Solenoid

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This picture shows how I test the contacts inside of the solenoid. I have one lead, in this case the black lead on the side of the solenoid that is always hot. The red lead, in this picture is barely visible but is hooked to the switched side of the solenoid. The picture was taken while the engine is cranking and as you can see there is only a fraction of a volt drop through the solenoid. When the starter is not turning, the voltage would reflect full battery voltage. This picture only shows if there is voltage loss through the solenoid while it is pulled in
If it shows full battery voltage either the solenoid is not getting power on the small control wire or the solenoid is not functioning. Anything more than 2 V or so the contacts in the solenoid are pitted or corroded and the solenoid needs to be replaced
 

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Thanks Gary and Tony. Need couple days for freeze-ass weather to clear. After two clicks and then one click was sure sol no good but will jump connects Monday.

Cheers, Jack
I hear that! Saturday we hit -23F air temps. Wind gusts bounced it down to minus 35. I'm a bit north west of you.
If you put a big screwdriver from one stud to the other stud on the solenoid, will the starter kick in? Key does not have to be On
 
Jack, did you jump positive from batt to field on starter? If that doesn't roll it ???
Bought a Klein multimeter, it defective, back to Amazon. Also changed out the solenoid as I had no current to the starter/generator. Still getting one click when trying to start. So, maybe not the sol but wire from sol to the start/gen. Having so much fun I can't stand it.
Cheers
 
Turn the key while pushing up and down all the way on the pedal in the locked position, see if it starts to turn over. My 125 does that, need to check the safety
switch one day. Report back.
 
Jack, well shucks,darn and some swear words but you haven't said you jumped positive to "s" on starter.That would prove it works ,or not..If it does there's only a couple things left.Lewis is right about safety on brake pedal but normally the sol would not kick if that was bad..It's easy to find,(unless you're laying on wet ground like I was today).The wire from sol to starter might be broken inside or not making good contact...These old s/g have a tendency to break off mounting bolts for wires so give it some juice a nd be easy..
 
Turn the key while pushing up and down all the way on the pedal in the locked position, see if it starts to turn over. My 125 does that, need to check the safety
switch one day. Report back.
That did not work, just getting the one click. Before the day is out I will have made-up a jumper to go from sol to starter/gen where Gary thinks the problem lies (bad wire). I tend to agree. In the pics, what are those two gizmos. In 2nd pic if I take that long thing apart something will break. In pic 3 I thought that was the safety switch but there too many wires.
Cheers
 

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Fuse for your headlights, and the switch to turn them on. the other thing is a piece of wood
 
That did not work, just getting the one click. Before the day is out I will have made-up a jumper to go from sol to starter/gen where Gary thinks the problem lies (bad wire). I tend to agree. In the pics, what are those two gizmos. In 2nd pic if I take that long thing apart something will break. In pic 3 I thought that was the safety switch but there too many wires.
Cheers
Klein tester a clunker; just to be sure took it to my auto shop. Return to Amazon and order a Fluke 107, getting it tomorrow. Still testing and still getting just one click. Looked at the schematics. Roland's Fancy Colored wiring diagram has three connects from one big terminal while the other biggee goes to starter/gen. There is a grd wire and Roland shows a safety swt which I cannot find under the hood.
Other schematic from Cubcadetpartsnmoire.com also has a safety swt and wired like the Roland.
I have four wires coming from one of the large terminals, an obvious blunder. A fifth goes to start/gen and a sixth to grd.
Please help me find the safety swt?
Cheers
 
If you are getting a click at solenoid than I don't think it's a safety switch.
Are you absolutely positive the battery is good?
 
The switch is under the tractor there should be two orange wires going to it. As for the wires this what is on mine. four on top. The cut wire was for a horn at one time
DSC03754.JPG
 
For me troubleshooting is like driving, electrical schematic is the map
Different people take different paths
Of course start with the high probabilities
Is the solenoid getting voltage on the small wire when the clutch is Boštjan weight is on the seat the deck is turned off and the key is turn?
 
Yes a horn, it was a factory option. the button is still there though...

What??? Is the solenoid getting voltage on the small wire when the clutch is Boštjan weight is on the seat the deck
 
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