Refurbishing my 108

[RayF]

Today I installed "most" of the decals...
Still haven't decided whether to cut up the dash decal, or go ahead and remove the dash again.

I'm also missing some of my steering wheel cover. I think it has been cut, and a screw holds mine on.The decal is a long, pointy decal. I may have to make a new piece out of a large aluminum pie pan...

I need to know where these (3) decals go.... they were not on my tractor that I remember.

It's a nice sunny day out... so I thought I'd take a few pictures of the tractor in it's work environment.

 

[PACub100]

What about something like a license plate light, angle it to illuminate the dash at night...

 

[PACub100]

That is sweet!! I played with the color and stuff in that first shot - looks like a promo shot in a brochure or an advertisement of the time.

 

[snicklas]

I need to know where these (3) decals go.... they were not on my tractor that I remember.

View attachment 138274

I can tell you where 2 of them go.

The upper left "Release Drive" Decal goes on the tunnel cover (on hydro's), on the starter/generator side of the tractor. It goes toward the dash side of the "L" Shaped lever to push the buttons on the relief valves. It will actually be behind the lever. Like this:

Sorry about the quality, but you can see the outline of it behind the lever. (See Red Arrow)

The upper right "Lift" goes here, on Electric Lift Equipped Tractors:

I'm not sure where the big caution sticker goes

 

[RayF]

Thanks!! I figured a couple of them were for equipment my 108 doesn't have. No Hydro, No electric lift...

 

[IHinIN]

Looks great!

The caution decal looks to me like the one that goes under the seat mount above the battery.

 

[RayF]

Got back to the 108 this morning/afternoon...
I've always wanted headlights on this machine... but not for $100 or more.
I had some take-off lights from my motorcycle light bar... as one was damaged, and buying a new pair was cheaper than getting just one.
I didn't want to cut the original headlight panel- so I made a new one from some 18ga sheet metal.
Cutting round holes in heavy sheet metal is quite a challenge! I used my jig-saw, but the blade was pretty wide to cut sharp curves... but I struggled through.
Got the holes cut, the bulbs fitted, and I prewired everything, so it would be plug and play. Mounted the unit to the tractor, and ran the wires to the switch, headlights, and provisions for taillights (on their way from Amazon).. I think they turned out pretty well.. will have to see how they hold up to the heat/vibration of this tractor.

 

[mfrade]

Looks like they are plenty bright.

 

[PACub100]

Looks really cool!!!

 

[kclift]

Look's like a factry install. cool

 

[RayF]

Getting down to the nitty-gritty... she's almost done (as far as I'm going to take her).
My new LED Taillights came today, and I couldn't be happier!
I was able to mount them and run the wires- without drilling any (new) holes or doing any irreversible mods.
They were cheap, but seem well-built. They have 10 LEDs, and are quite bright.
The mounting holes line up with the original holes stamped in the fender. I was able to run the wires through another factory hole. They were simple to hook up to the harness I made when I installed the headlights a few days ago.
I used #10-24 x 5/8" stainless steel machine screws. and put a star washer under one of the nuts (to create a ground), and used that as a grounding-post for the black wire on the lights.

 

[glippert]

Ray - Thanks for that info & pics. I'm missing the lenses/covers for the taillights on the 1650 I'm working on and, of course, haven't found any. At least not that I'm willing to spend scalper prices for! I've been thinking about getting LEDs and you made the decision easy. I had even thought about just leaving the taillights off the tractor, since it's unlikely I'll ever use it off yard or after dark, but for $13 it's a good investment and good look. Thanks for the link - I ordered a set!

 

[gchunnett]

Hello Fellow Cubers or is it Cadets....?

I have a question. As I trolled the magnificent refurbishments, a few pictures sparked across the void between my ears. I refer you to this pictures "borrowed" from the above trail and in particular the front steering modification. So with apologies to RayF and asking humble permission to re-tweet portions of his pictures, it ably illustrates the nature of my question.

Both my original 100 and 102, have sloppy steering on the original "rolled pin" tie rod fixture to the front steering/axle. Observe the modified tie rod end bracket that fits over the original axle swivel/pivot point. ( part of that problem is that we cant get proper Rolled Pins but also 60 years have taken their toll)

This modification would eliminate ~80% of that slop and what I need is a simple pattern with a few dimensions on it (pref in Metric) but I am of an age that I understand inches. Part of my concern is that I'm from across the pond and over the horizon in Cape Town South Africa. Being handy with a bender and a welder I suppose I could do it by trial and error, so thought I would ask nicely first if anyone has a left + right hand side pattern(s) already perhaps? (Its a tad too far for Diggers vans to venture.)

Thanking you in advance for a drawing, please.

 

[mgwin]

What about a NOS (nitrous oxide) switch? LOL!

 

[RayF]

Gordon- you may get more responses, if you start this question as a new thread. If an Admin sees this- maybe they can move it.
I'm not sure exactly what you are asking... Do you need to replace an original part on your 100 and 102? What is worn out? I'm not familiar with those tractor suspensions, but mine is not "modified".

Here is the parts diagram for the 108 suspension. What do you need?

Here is the 100-style suspension:

 

[snicklas]

Hello Fellow Cubers or is it Cadets....?

I have a question. As I trolled the magnificent refurbishments, a few pictures sparked across the void between my ears. I refer you to this pictures "borrowed" from the above trail and in particular the front steering modification. So with apologies to RayF and asking humble permission to re-tweet portions of his pictures, it ably illustrates the nature of my question.
View attachment 138413 View attachment 138414 View attachment 138415
Both my original 100 and 102, have sloppy steering on the original "rolled pin" tie rod fixture to the front steering/axle. Observe the modified tie rod end bracket that fits over the original axle swivel/pivot point. ( part of that problem is that we cant get proper Rolled Pins but also 60 years have taken their toll)

This modification would eliminate ~80% of that slop and what I need is a simple pattern with a few dimensions on it (pref in Metric) but I am of an age that I understand inches. Part of my concern is that I'm from across the pond and over the horizon in Cape Town South Africa. Being handy with a bender and a welder I suppose I could do it by trial and error, so thought I would ask nicely first if anyone has a left + right hand side pattern(s) already perhaps? (Its a tad too far for Diggers vans to venture.)

Thanking you in advance for a drawing, please.

I would recommend starting a new thread for this, it would be easier to keep track of the reply's. That being said,

These are not a modified steering "knuckle". These are factory stock steering components for a Wideframe/Quietline/82 Series tractor. IH redesigned the front axle and knuckles with the release of the 1x8/9 tractors. Unfortunately, these knuckles will not just replace the ones on a narrow frame axle. You could swap the entire axle out. There are some posts on here of how to fix your narrow frame ones also.

 

[RayF]

Now that the lights are on... and it's dark outside... PIC time!!!

 

[gchunnett]

Morning all old and young Cubbers again,
Thanks for the prompt responses, and RayF your two diagrams illustrate the issue exactly.
Starting with the original 100 design, part 8 fits onto part 6 with a rolled pin and 60 years later ... sloppy Joe.
I have for years toyed with cutting splines and making a matching spline nut and remaking part 8 to reduce the slop.

Your diagram for the redesigned front axle for the 108 tells me what I need to now.
I can play with a few buts of scrap first to ensure the turning circle is still achieved and that the tie rods still clear the chassis.
and I can adjust the height of the wheels by making a few variations on the position of the stub axle welds.

If anyone has gone down this road would value comments and hints.

I see no reason why such a modification would not work, that said I did see someone else' picture yesterday of a black saddle clamp with what could have been a cotter pin, but clot that I am didnt grab a picture

 

[gchunnett]

Two of mine on display at a local fund raising car show for a police retirement facility in January 2020

(The trident was all hand built, beaten and rolled to get the body built) So I positioned mine close by and got lots of admiring looks and questions. made up a brochure with specs and details. Was a grey drippy day, unfortunately.

and can you spot and point out the defect(s).... ( bonnet (hood) ornament wrong way round)

 

[IHinIN]

Nice Cubs Gordon. I sent you a message about how to easily fix your steering with a tapered pin. Check your conversations.