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JERRY - I thought the spark plug gap was only .025", not .035" You may not have enough ignition system to run a gap that wide. Those old points & condensor ignitions were only good for 15,000 to 20,000 Volts, not 40,000 to 50,000 like todays electronic ignitions. Wider the gap, the more volts erquired to jump the gap.
 
Wyatt, Valve movement looked normal when ajusting them, rolled motor over many times whil re-checking myself, Still might be missing it though?
Dennis, opps! Plug gap IS listed at .025! My error. The motor acts like the timing is way off???
 
JERRY - I re-timed My K-241 last weekend. I used a timing light instead of just setting the gap. It's amazing what a difference a very very small change made to the way the engine ran. There's a small metal plug on the S/G side of the engine You pull out, hookup the timing light, highlight the timing mark with the "S" by it and start the engine if You can. Year or so ago I had an intermittant miss at idle on the 72 and after checking the timing I found out the points were getting bad. The timing was jumping every time it missed. Keep working on it.... Where there's smoke there's fire. You have to be close!
 
Cannot get it to pick up and run. So close, so far away. still cannot make any reason why it turns over faster with the choke pulled.
Hate to pull the head, no gasket for a hundred miles when I need one.
Deere wants 9.50 for that main carb needle, doesn't seem bad. At least it will not be bent!
 
David K,
I have a couple questions about breathers.
On your milled aluminum breather, Is it flat on the back side, or does it have a recess milled in to it? Also, what do you think about routing the hose to the back side of the air cleaner like some of the later tractors? I thought this would be a good idea because the air filter is a better
filter than the scotchbright pad that kohler puts inside the valve cover. I just figured it would have less chance of sucking dirt in through the breather. The only downside I can see is that you may get some oil residue inside the air filter.
I have seen a lot of car engines set up this way
and our CCs operate in a much dirtier environment
than most cars.
 
Todd,

Thanks for the good questions. The breather cover has a .188 deep recess milled into the back face. This gives the same gasket face to stud height dimension as the stock, steel cover. What is gained is greater internal volume as the billet cover has this depth maintained over the entire surface where the steel cover tapers down near the edges. The extra volume is a real benefit in separating the oil droplets out of the breather gasses. I've run my prototype for over a year now and the rubber breather tube never has a trace of oil at the end. The greater outlet area and larger internal volume seem to keep the oil cleaner. I know this is hard to prove, and I don't want to sound like something out of J. C. Whitney's catalog, but it does seem to be the case.

You can route the hose back into the air cleaner if you want, but keep the Kohler breather element in place. This "hog's hair" is excellent for separating oil vapor out of the air and should be always used regardless of what breather plate is installed. One thing I've noticed is with the remote hose, this hog's hair remains clean without the usual trash that gets in from outside. The additional length that the tube provides keeps debris backflow from soiling it.

I'll attach a picture showing the recess on the back side.
13262.jpg
 
Jerry B,

I agree with some of the others who suggested looking at ignition system and timing. Starting off with fresh points and condenser on an engine that may have sat unrun for a long time, is always a good procedure. Sounds like you are getting ample fuel if you see black smoke.

Another suggestion is leaving choke open and teasing it with some ether starting fluid. See if you can get it to continue running using this approach.
 
David K,
I had planned on keeping the original breather
filter (hogs hair that's funny)
in place. I just figured routing the hose to the air filter would give some additional protection
to keep things cleaner.

Jerry,
I think the reason it turns faster when choked is because it is firing, but just not with enough force to stay running. I have seen several do that. I'll bet if you do it for a while the exhaust pipe will get warm. I agree with David
about the ignition. Try playing with the choke and throttle settings while cranking. Some engines will start better using partial choke rather than full choke. Most poeple either have the choke fully open or fully closed. My Farmall
F-12 is like that. On it you give it full choke
till gas runs out the carb, then open the choke
halfway and it will start on the next crank. If you don't do it this way, you can crank till your arm falls off and it won't start. You learn stuff like that real quick when you don't have electric
start to do the work for you. ;-)
 
Found some bad trouble! The hard turning got to bothering me and I pulled the motor. Found the dipper broken off of the connecting rod and a lot of spare rod metal stuck on the crank. Explained the hard turning anyway. Someone who has been in this motor is a butcher, Badly gouged piston above the top rings, metal is mushroomed above top level of piston. OUCH!! However the block will polish and go back as standard bore. I am thinking there was some mixing of parts to get enough to fill up the motor. I sure could use a carb when done though.
 
Don,

Do you have the dimensions of SOLID iso mounts if you want to replace them with aluminum or steel. I want to rigidly mount my 16+ HP K341 in my 1000. Thanks, Kenny
 
Jerry you might find out theres nothing wrong with the carb once you overhaul the engine. remember that fuel signal at the carb is only as good as the vacumme created by the intake stroke. poor draw = poor carburation

Kenny I never make spacers. I just make up a solid mount plate & weldem in. less parts to shake apart and cause problems
 
Where can I buy Firestone ag style tires? I have a set of 10.50 Carlisles, but I have seen some stock pullers doing just as well or better with the 8.50? I am just getting started putting my 128 together. Thanks to Don, who has been a great help.
 
Don:

Now that you have seen the bearing, do you have any clues as to where it may have come from. Have perused a lot of catalogs and have several counter guys also looking and nobody has a clue.

What do you think of the setup?

Thanks for posting the pics.

How about the weights. Monsters huh?
 
I can't say that I've seen anything like that before. looks like it fits nice though

those are some killer weights !
 
Thanks Don! Carbs are a weakness here for sure. However the throttle shaft is worn and the main needle is bent pretty good. Have a spare 10 hp carb but the shaft in it is REALLY bad. Never enough parts! Would be fun to have a shed full to pick from! JB
 
Has anybody ever put a supercharger (blower) on a cub cadet? Or any kohler motor? If so I'd like to see some pics.
 
I've never seen anyone have any luck boosting a kohler. usually the block & cyl. part company if you put enough boost in to make it worth your while. now if you want it for eye candy, keep the boost down it should be OK
 
Kent,
A friend of mine has a CC with a blower (3-71 I think)here in Trumbull Ct.. A guy in Milford built it. He uses it mainly for shows and parades cause he's scared it will blow up if he pulls with it. I'll try to get some pics. There's no substitute for cubic inches if power is what you're looking for. Can't wait to hurl the snow with my 1600 QL this winter! Kenny
 
Thanks guys,
I have a small blower on my Nova and just thought it would be neat to have one on my Cub Cadet.
 
Those numbers 3-71, That feeds 3 cylinders with 71 cubic inches per cylinder. That blower would just about be the same dimensions as 16 horse block. Gosh, I don't see why he'd be scared to lean on it.
happy.gif
 

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